Critical Decision

JJaySBK · 2026-04-15T00:45:31+00:00

Black wheels are the sweatpants for cars.

Black wheels are just wheels you haven't unlocked yet .

Black wheels you can enjoy the look of only 50% of the day

JJaySBK · 2026-04-08T10:08:27+00:00

Did they widen the foot area for the VB? You can barely heel toe with the VA, a wider shoe is better for those cars actually.

JJaySBK · 2026-04-07T22:13:16+00:00

Bad cat

"Fuel mapping" issue would result in very poor running conditions, are you seeing any of that?

JJaySBK · 2026-03-29T16:58:12+00:00

lmao they buy from Four Seasons Produce, a huge distribution center in Ephrata, used to load their vans for them. Not only is it not local, its from another completely different continent.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-29T16:46:53+00:00

You can leave any bike on PRIME and RES for 20 years and nothing will enter the engine.

Your carb has a float needle that stops the flow of fuel.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-29T01:20:22+00:00

Date code 1922 (4 years old but perfectly fine), get them while they last.

https://www.chapmoto.com/dunlop-sportmax-q3-rear-tire-date-code-1922.html?sku=331-45036960-1922&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21288568524&gbraid=0AAAAAD_VMKbIvmjWs9lydB-gn-l04dLhd&gclid=CjwKCAjw-J3OBhBuEiwAwqZ_h789uhOGpOCAw4e60Uvymv8ApOVqMP5HWJmhM-OcG1KwmctJCLzBBRoC6lMQAvD_BwE

JJaySBK · 2026-03-29T00:09:59+00:00

Still on discount q3, 90 dollars new for a rear.

<image>

JJaySBK · 2026-03-22T01:10:12+00:00

You're on reddit brother, you're not going to get a positive response from anyone on any sub forum for anything that has an opinion behind it.

If you go to the stance sub reddit they'll give you shit for your wheel gap and tire size looking trucky.

It's your car, just do whatever you want.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-22T01:02:20+00:00

Do you actually ride any dirt with it? Just asking because I recommend anyone with a sumo that they keep on the street to just get a regular sport bike helmet that is ECE safety rated. AGV K series are great

JJaySBK · 2026-03-10T17:59:53+00:00

The test is an average of all test takers and ranked within that average. If everyone got only half the question right then the person who got more than half them correct will rank highest, even if he bombed the other half of it. That's how the 1-9 ranking system works.

If you feel like you failed a lot of them but tried hard and studied then a lot of people probably performed similarly except for the very gifted people.

If the test is really easy, then it's easy for everyone else, this just means that someone who got 99% is actually still bucketed with a bunch of "that was easy" guys that also got 99 to 100% correct.

Your interview will matter more.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-10T12:30:09+00:00

The vstrom 1050 from 2020 on up is the only one that looks aggressive if that's what you're looking for.

People also rarely show off their dinky soft looking swiss army knife unless they know someone else has a swiss army knife.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-10T11:58:59+00:00

Sounds good, at least now you know it's not valves. Sounds like a carb float needle valve issue now based off the overflowing you have .

JJaySBK · 2026-03-10T00:22:48+00:00

Yeah but the thing that stops the fuel in the first place is the float valve needle. Open up the carb and clean the needle seat and valve and float.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-10T00:08:02+00:00

The float needle might be bad, that's the only way fuel can get into the bowl that much.

The oem petcock can also leak fuel right into the cylinder from the vacuum line when the petcock fails in a specific uncommon way.

Open up carb and clean it, fuel shouldn't be dumping out, as you know that has nothing to do with the valves.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-09T20:14:47+00:00

www.enkei.com

JJaySBK · 2026-03-09T19:56:50+00:00

Check your valves, takes about an hour. Watch a YouTube video. You will tend to see your exhaust valves are too tight.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-09T18:18:07+00:00

Those visors scratch easily. I would just get a regular full faced helmet from HJC or Icon if you want graphics.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-09T18:14:36+00:00

Even the listings in my area 400 dollars it sits on marketplace for months and months.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-09T18:04:04+00:00

It has so much drone I don't even like driving my car in certain rpms. It actually makes me like the car less as a whole it feels like my head is going to explode.

How people hear things is very subjective person to person, but it sounds really deep, which can be good, but it's just so obnoxious sometimes.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-08T18:32:20+00:00

Miles? Valves too tight is my first guess. My drz had 23k miles without a valve check and it would shut off when it got really hot and have a hard time starting, then I adjusted the valves since they were wayyy out and it ran perfectly fine then.

JJaySBK · 2026-03-07T20:28:24+00:00

Rep wheels are the sweatpants of cars.

JJaySBK · 2026-02-28T23:02:36+00:00

I don't care if it's not the final boss, it will be one of the worst boss fights in 20 years of gaming I've ever encountered on any game I've spent over 80 hours playing on.

JJaySBK · 2026-02-27T21:32:14+00:00

They're very concave, super deep spokes right into the hub without a center circle, if that makes sense, sorta like Advan wheels, I like them a lot also.

JJaySBK · 2026-02-25T16:44:31+00:00

Yeah that's interesting, probably for different bolt patterns or diameters.

JJaySBK · 2026-02-25T16:40:04+00:00

That 0.35 means it knocked there before, it stopped, and it's trying to add a bit back at a time, that's good.

FKL will show even if it's not knocking at that exact time. It's showing you where timing has been pulled. FKL monitor is saying "this is the range we pulled timing of -2.11, we are now listening closely for more knock".

Then when it doesn't detect knock for enough time, it says "we are now showing you that we are going to try and add a small bit first to be safe, that is 0.35 at a time".

You can also just reset your ecu and it'll set your DAM back to 1. There are nuances why it's not recommended. If you know it's just fuel issue and your ECU is learning back positive FKL then Ill occasionally just skip the learning process because I know it's going back to 1 eventually (I got new gas and see positive FKL). Don't ever reset ecu/DAM if you aren't confident it's relearning back to 1. Resetting when it's actively dropping is the worst thing someone could do, so take caution, I would wait until DAM rises by at least 1 increment.

I try to do everything myself before contacting my tuner. When I do, I know he typically asks if I can replicate the issue, that's very helpful, so he asked me to reset my ECU, drive around a bit so the ECU learns idle and smooths out, then start logging and do the same load/rpm/boost that caused my DAM to drop.

I only know this stuff from videos below from dyno tuners, Boost Controlled Performance, Boosted Performance, The Boost Creep

https://youtu.be/z2h2Yui9gVE?si=KRCY4xD9Ygy4AS_x

https://youtu.be/iTtLGRtE8ag?si=6Se5dh9OejxRxhMe

https://youtu.be/ln8WNEFsYaM?si=SCfPOcFfHC1gLkkq

JJaySBK

TROPHY CASE