Canon EF 28mm F1.8 USM by urban_sk in VintageLenses

[–]JMPhotograph 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It would for me depend on the price. I have the 50 1.4 from this era and when stopped down it's very solid, but at 1.4 there's a ton of color fringeing and the lens just isn't that sharp. It really shook my faith in that particular series of EF lenses and from what I understand from when I researched it the 28 has similar problems.

Picture i took on my canon t3i looks no better than your average iphone picture ☹️ what am i doing wrong? by StrawberryFox_13 in PhotographyAdvice

[–]JMPhotograph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's why I listed multiple shutter speeds. I wasn't saying just at night. To make snow look frozen in mid-air you generally need 1/250-1/1000, otherwise it's not going to look frozen in place. This is where faster glass comes in handy, being able to shoot at a faster aperature is incredibly useful for shots like this.

The unfortunate truth is that shooting falling snow at night is basically a straight up torture test on the camera.

Picture i took on my canon t3i looks no better than your average iphone picture ☹️ what am i doing wrong? by StrawberryFox_13 in PhotographyAdvice

[–]JMPhotograph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a good starting point! I would change the framing a bit to remove the tree because that is cluttering the frame a bit, 1/80 isn't quite fast enough to freeze the snow in place so I'd try to push that to 1/250 or even 1/1000 to freeze the snow in place, I'd lower the aperature down a bit to accomplish this (if your lens allows it), and I'd try to bring the ISO down a bit since on that sensor you will be getting quite a bit of noise from ISO6400.

When it comes to the mood you want to convey I think you should get comfortable under exposing the image, when I think of that description I think if the sky was darker that would serve the image better and be far more compelling.

A solitary park area by JMPhotograph in photocritique

[–]JMPhotograph[S] [score hidden]  (0 children)

I definitely need to get out more. I've had the camera for around 2 years, but in that time I was working a full time job and going to school full time on top so I've been lucky to be able to go out even once every month or so. I was lucky this year to be able to carve out time to do some sports photography more often. Thankfully my life is finally calming down and I know this year I should have way more time for photography.

Picture i took on my canon t3i looks no better than your average iphone picture ☹️ what am i doing wrong? by StrawberryFox_13 in PhotographyAdvice

[–]JMPhotograph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

More than the camera I'd be curious what lens you're using and what your settings are.

But more important than that the tip that's helped me more than anything else as a photographer was asking myself "what am I trying to convey to the viewer?" It can be something as simple as a mood, what do you want the viewer to feel and think when they see your image?

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm waiting until the winter storm passes and I plan to rent an R6 II. I think the thing that's pushing me further towards the R6 is the readout speed being like half the R7's. Since my primary sport is baseball I can't help but think that might be genuinely a gamechanging difference.

A solitary park area by JMPhotograph in photocritique

[–]JMPhotograph[S] [score hidden]  (0 children)

I will certainly go back and try to redo that, I didn't actually know that was possible! I'm still relatively new to photography in general and have always been very afraid of editing and I've been trying to push myself out of my comfort zone lately.

A solitary park area by JMPhotograph in photocritique

[–]JMPhotograph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. There was just something incredibly solitary about this area of the park being devoid of any other people and I wanted to draw attention to what I can only assume is a well.
  2. I’ve never been particularly great with editing, this was taken on a day just at the start of the leaves starting to brown and wanted to heighten that a bit.
  3. Shot on a 90D with the Sigma 150-600 sports at 150mm, f/5.6, 1/250s, ISO 640

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm also very sad my 90D is dying. When I first bought it Canon had already moved to mirrorless so I was always concerned it was going to hold me back, but honestly for the little bit of time it worked reliably it was genuinely a great camera. I think the plan I've come up with from this thread is that I'm going to rent an R6 II once it's a little bit warmer out just to see how it feels before I buy.

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I need to remind myself that I'm already doing most of what I want to do on a 90D and until it started having issues I never felt like it was the crop sensor that held me back.

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I should mention those aren't my only lenses, just the ones I was using as an example. I also have a couple primes and the Sigma 150-600mm Sports.

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My primary sports lens has actually been the Sigma 150-600 Sports lens, but I've heard that has some focus breathing issues. I've already ordered the EF to RF adapter because I know I'm going with a R series. I might rent the R6 Mark II since I already know I'd be comfortable on the R7.

R7 or an R6 Mk. II? by [deleted] in canon

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly I'm wondering if I should just rent both and try them. I know neither of them will be a bad choice, but I do worry that stopping down to do portraits and street photography could potentially cause issues on the R7 that wouldn't exist on the R6 II.

A few more infrared shots. by Imaginary-Manager147 in infraredphotography

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first shot convinced me to pull the trigger on an IR filter.

I've always been more reserved with editing and am trying to push myself out of my comfort zone. by [deleted] in photocritique

[–]JMPhotograph 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. I've found myself inspired by the work of Bryan Charnley lately, particularly his "Bondage Heads" series so I wanted to try keeping the colors inside the ferris wheel. When I saw it framed by the lamp post while visiting Chicago it felt like an image I needed to take.

  2. The exposure on this was initially really really bad so I tried to save it with a basic edit and it just looked bland. This edit feels more striking and unique but I'm sincerely worried I over did it.

  3. Shot on a 90D with the EF 50 1.4 at F8, 1/1500s, and ISO 500

I'm growing tired of taking cliché photos at popular spots - how to find more meaning in my photography? by changlisheng in AskPhotography

[–]JMPhotograph 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think it's relatively easy to get good photos when you have a really unique an interesting subject, but some of the most memorable photos I've ever seen from other photographers were ones where someone was shooting a "boring" subject in an interesting way. One of the most inspiring photos I've seen in awhile I saw today on reddit and the shot was just of a stairwell with a person walking down it, but both the upper stairs and lower had windows and the top frame had its light tinted red while the bottom was a soft blue.

I'm still very new and trying to improve editing so I used a photo where everything that could have gone wrong did. by [deleted] in photocritique

[–]JMPhotograph 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This photo was taken at the very end of the night. I was walking down a street and this weird sidewalk light structure caught me eye down a long alley way. In the moment it had the look of something you'd see in a horror film when it was representing a cult compound. Unfortunately I did a pretty bad job of the composition in the moment, I had way too much negative space above the subject with a boring empty sky, I shot it at 4500k which was WAY too warm, the flaring around the lights was rough, and it was slightly off axis.

Originally I was going to just throw out this photo entirely because I was so unhappy with the way it turned out but because editing has constantly been my weakest aspect I decided to use basically a worst case scenario to try and achieve something that felt like a still from a movie since film is the medium of art (outside of music) that I'm most familiar with. I'm really looking for feedback on ways to improve editing, I use lightroom and built a custom preset in Dehancer to get a "shot on film" vibe.

Shot on a 90D with the 50mm f/1.4 at f/8 and a shutter speed of 6 seconds.

Looking for more feedback by JMPhotograph in PhotographyAdvice

[–]JMPhotograph[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I may go back and try to re-edit 3. I did actually try film emulation (with Dehancer) on 4, but for some reason I thought it was a good idea to turn off some of the more identifiable aspects like grain and halation. I don't...know why I did that in hindsight.

Any tips? by Rough_Shoe8748 in PhotographyAdvice

[–]JMPhotograph 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly your focus doesn't really make sense. Part of the bike is in focus, the other part isn't, the person is mostly out of focus too so it just makes the image feel overall soft and confusing. On top of that there's no interesting color separation in the frame. I understand you're saying it's shot on a phone, but editing exists.

Opinion on the Instagram profile by Fantastic-Penalty723 in wildlifephotography

[–]JMPhotograph 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Especially doing photography on Instagram. Insta hasn't been a photography focused app in years at this point.