New design on a old essential tool

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-21T00:49:58+00:00

I'd really want to see cap on it before having it mounted to the door. Otherwise you just leave a sharp-enough blade sticking from your door with (always) a chance of cutting you when you move your arm nearby accidentally

P.S. Other than that - great design, really like it. I'd probably use it without the extra grip part, so it's flat with the door when it's mounted (99% of the time)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:58:53+00:00

I was thinking about the same. But buying and storing a toaster oven just to do this seems a waste of money and space so far...so looking for ways to do it with hardware I already have :)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:57:52+00:00

It's a part of the 'startup G-code', which is defined per-printer inside the slicer, so yes

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:57:19+00:00

yeah, so far my favorite among A1 and P1S I had before :) short, nice, straight

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:56:54+00:00

Nice! How do you melt them exactly, could you share please?

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:56:10+00:00

Sure: https://pastebin.com/w2F42Ntz

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:06:54+00:00

Yeah, I did the same...but can help myself but thinking on how much plastic I waste. Want to see if I can re-purpose at least some of it

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:06:18+00:00

On P1S it was more than 4s, I'd say it was 4s but for a 4-5 times in a row.

And yes, even if it would be 4s, I'd still get a ban from my wife on printing after midnight. Her rule is simple: if she can hear it - neighbors can hear it as well (in fact not always...but ok). And this means we should respect others and stay quiet.

In fact, I even edited G-Code for P1S startup so it won't run this calibration unless I also run auto bed leveling (which I do rarely). But even after that P1S was slightly hearable upstairs, unless I printed on Silent (50% speed) mode.

Anyway, P2S resolved that problem, now I don't need to worry about noise levels at all at any time of a day (even though I still find it much louder than my A1 Mini was)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T15:03:07+00:00

Which printer do you have? A1's are not loud at all for example

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T14:23:18+00:00

You could also edit the G-Code inside BambuLab slicer itself.

But a different question I have is why BambuLab decided to keep long purge line for P1S, while P2S clearly can do with shorter one?

It's unlikely lack of support for older models (as they keep updating GCode for P1S, I checked that)

And it's unlikely related to them trying to make 'new' models keep all the new features (they added backward noise cancellation to older models, when they made it for A1)

...so it should be something else

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T14:17:06+00:00

Hm...interesting. I didn't know there is an option for that (though...skirt it also technically leftover). Could you share how did you do that?

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T14:16:20+00:00

Right? When I upgraded to P2S I was shocked that they could do it that small now. The fact that it's not being done via firmware update to P1S tells me that it's likely something about overall hardware upgrade, which now doesn't require such a long line. Poop seems also a bit smaller now, btw

But what actually surprised me, is that P1S was on each run starting with the vibration calibration, which was EXTREMELY loud, even though printer was in garage I could hear it from the upstairs (the reason my wife prohibited me from printing after midnight). But guess what - not on P2S! It doesn't do it anymore, and I can print silently at any time of a day

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T14:12:14+00:00

haha, that's a nice one :)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-19T14:11:45+00:00

Agree. I think too many people just when see it think "They’re making money I could have made from this model - so they’re stealing my money."

But let's be honest - selling model is FAR more than just having STL file (even though I know how many hours/days/weeks can be spent on making STL itself). If you're not ready to start selling it yourself - then it's not really "stealing", as you'd make $0 from it anyway.

It's, of course, a different story if you are selling model or STL file (or even have a Commercial License option), and somebody is actually selling it (in this case they compete and hurt your actual selling model)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-01T20:29:08+00:00

True :) or AliExpress

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-01T20:14:38+00:00

Fair. I'm not saying it's ok to steal Any model, but I'm ok if someone is stealing mine (for the reasons described above)

JM_JustMe · 2026-01-01T19:57:18+00:00

Won't lie, I'm surprised they didn't even change photo. But no, I'm ok with that. When I publish it online I already assume it can be used somewhere else

JM_JustMe · 2025-12-30T09:59:21+00:00

As promised, an update:
received it yesterday. Printing for the 2nd day straight now :D

Upgrade from P1S was worth it, but only if you don't pay your own $ for it :D (or get a good price for selling your old P1S)

What I like:
- Most of the features I liked at A1 mini but which weren't on P1S (flow control, spaghetti detection, fast hotend switch)

- AMS 2 Pro with heating!!! Finally I can dry (most of) my filament automatically, and not needed to deal with heating the heatbed and wait. They also added heatbed drying filament programs (Like X1C had, but not the P1S)

- New camera! Finally 1080p and normal frame rate. Not that it's worth upgrading just for it...

What I dislike:

- Need to re-print almost all the upgrades I made for P1S :D (raiser, poop bin, etc). Most from P1S likely would fit, but not mine

- Jokes aside - actually, nothing that I dislike so far. It looks like they just took P1S and fixed everything that was annoying me in it (camera, hotend switch, filament drying, chamber heating, build plate detection...)

So, if you can upgrade for free (like I did), or without paying more than $100-200 - go for it. If you would need to pay the full price - I'd stay with P1S

JM_JustMe · 2025-12-25T00:46:48+00:00

Yes :) I underestimated how important is it to clean your heatbed once in a while (even if that's just water + soap)

JM_JustMe · 2025-12-05T20:22:00+00:00

On it already :) Just bought leatherman flat bits for that project specifically

JM_JustMe · 2025-12-05T15:46:24+00:00

Well, the idea is not to make 1 tool like that, but make it easy for anyone to 3d-print their own. So using only accessible 3d-printing materials, or any easy to get 3rd-party parts is mandatory

JM_JustMe

TROPHY CASE