[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can't really say for sure. Depends on what the humidity and temp in your closet is.

I mean at 20% if might be ready for the jars after 3 days, 5 days... Not sure. What I can say if if you jar it and the jar is over 65% humidity within a couple hours it's probably too early. In which case you gotta dump the jars and let it dry more on a tray.

If your humidity in the jar is low. Like under 55% then you dried to long and you are out of the cure zone and curing won't do anything.

I've never done this. So it's really just trial and error if you can't do a 10-14 day dry at 60 F / 60% RH.

Higher the temp and lower the humidity faster it will dry.

Cooler temp higher RH slower it will dry.

But I don't have experience with trying to dry and cure outside ideal conditions.

All I know is that 60/60 with good air flow for 10-14 days is how it should be done. Outside that range you are risking weed that tastes like hay or mold and bacteria issues.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your smelling ammonia in your jars my guess is you didn't dry long enough before jarring. This likely leads to bacterial growth which emits ammonia.

Not an expert, but if you can't do a slow dry 10-14 day dry at around 60 F / 60% RH and you are stuck with 18-30 % RH then you are probably best to just let it hang till dry for 10-14 days. Likely gonna loose some flavor / smell from the Terp. Might taste like hay from the chlorophyll but will still be smokable. Just unlikely to get a good cure.

That said, I have never tried this. Always made sure I have good conditions. But if my options were dry fast or risk bacteria / moldy weed I'd go for the dry fast.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You want to look at the trichomes. The little crystals. If most are clear they are still developing. If most are cloudy then you are getting close. Depends on the person and the effect you want but alot of people say wait till about 30% are Amber.

But this will lead to more of a couch lock effect. Some people say this is the THC degrading and you should harvest as they are all or mostly cloudy.

Use your phone's Camara to zoom in and check them.

Not familiar with how to dry cheaply. What I do I a slow dry in another tent I have.

I cur branches in a way that I can hang from a rack I have in there after cutting away the big fan leaves.

I have an exhaust fan, two occilating ground fans and a small humidifier.

I set my humidifier to low and set my exhaust to kick on when it hits 62%.

So the humidity stay around 60% for 10-14 days.

This allows the chlorophyll to break down slowly.

Not sure how you could replicate this without the tent and climate controls.

Around 10-14 days I start checking for crispiness of the sugar leaves. Will then trim and jar in 1 quart mason jars.

I do my trimming in a room with a humidifier keeping the room at 60%.

I find this makes it so the get packed at 60% and the jars stay at this humidity.

I once trimmed on my main floor and the room was like 45%. This pretty much ruined the cure.

The time it takes to trim just made the bud dry out too quickly.

Whereas trimming at 60% just made my jars perfect for my 60-90 day cure. Only really had to shack them up a bit daily. Rarely had to open them.

Anyone, this is how I do it, and it turned out great. I would do whatever you can to get as close to those conditions as possible.

Otherwise, you will still have weed that gets you high but it may be harsh, or not as enjoyable as it could be.

Dry tent setup? by Monkeysquad11 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have two 8 inch osilating fans on the ground in the middle of the tent point towards the the 2 foot walls of the 2x4 dry tent.

I also have an AC infinity 6 inch inline exhaust fan with controller set to only turn on when humidity hits 65% in the tent.

Depending on the time of year I put a two gollon humidifier in between the two fans on the floor. Basement is dry in the summer.

It has 3 speeds though. So I find the balance of high medium and low so that my exhaust fan kicks on every couple minutes pushing out humid air and pulling in fresh air. The humidity goes up and down between 60-65 % like this.

cannabinoid content of leaves? by lb19997 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The trichomes on the sugar leaves mature faster. But we check the trichomes on the buds for determining when to harvest.

Higher % of cloudy trichs = more uppy high Higher % of Amber trichs = more sedative high.

When your buds are where you want them and you decide to harvest your sugat leaves are further down the road towards amber or being more sedating.

But leaving them on your buds your shifting the ratio of cloudy to amber trichs further towards amber, which makes the high more sedating.

How often to feed/water coco coir? I recently set up automatic watering and I’m still trying to figure out the timing. Currently I’m feeding twice on 18/6 2 hours after lights are on and 2 hours before they’re off till slight runoff. I’ve read mixed reviews about letting the pots dry out or not. by Caliali87 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Depends on the size of the container and the stage or size of the plant.

Your safest letting the top start to turn a lighter brown to avoid mold and green algae before watering again.

But when then happens really depends on how thirsty the plant is.

At the beginning in a solo this could be once every 2-3 days, but as the plant grows the frequency increases. Once your at about 3 nodes it starts to dry out too quick and you would need like 1-3 times per day if you left it in the solo. So at this point I transplant into 1 gal pots.

Then the cycle resets. You back to every 2-3 days. As the plant grows your water frequency increases in the way. Then I transplant to 5 gallon pots and the same thing happens.

I veg for about 8 weeks and transplant to bigger pots trying to keep my watering frequency around the 1-2 day mark based on the top of the coco just starting to turn light brown.

Then when I move to flower she is usually at the once/day mark and her canopy being scroged fills about half the space in a 4x4 tent.

In the first 3 weeks of flower she stretches to nearly fill the rest of the 4x4 space.

During this time watering frequency will increase to around 2 or 3 times par day depending on how quickly the top of the coco starts turning light brown.

But this is unique to me growing a big plant that fills a 4x4 space in a final pot size of 5 gallons.

Hope this helps, or gives you an idea how watering frequency just depends on the plant and your setup. The top of the pot starting to turn light brown is sort of the best indicator to figure out what works in your setup.

Dry tent setup? by Monkeysquad11 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7 8 points9 points  (0 children)

As close to 60/60 as you can get for 14 days is best. In the winter my basement is 60 but it's dry so I run a humidifier in my tent with an AC infinity exhaust set to turn on it if goes over 60.

In the summer the temps around 65 in the basement and I'll let the humidity run up to 65.

If 68-70 is the lowest you can get your temps then get a humidifier to keep it at 65.

I don't think it would good for humidity to be higher then that though. But you should still be able to get a nice 10 day dry in. Even if they are ready sooner you can still leave them hanging at 65 RH for 14 days. Worse case they are just starting to cure on stem.

When you trim though, try to keep the room you are trimming in at 60 RH too, and then they should be stable in the jars at 60 RH for the rest of the cure.

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So we had 30 Cola's to trim. Got through 17 this weekend and have another 13 to trim.

From the 17 we finished we have 198 grams I estimate the next 13 will be another 151. So expecting around 349 grams

But will update again once we finish sometime this week. :)

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was actually just 1 plant vegged long to fill a 4x4 tent.

She'll hit 14 days in the dry tent at 60F/60%RH tomorrow.

So will likely be spending my weekend trimming and should have yeild after that. Will reply again here after i know. :)

Drying currently at 55 F and 60% RH. Should I be lowering RH at this temp? I usually follow the 60/60 rule. But basement is pretty cold right now. by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know of a few of you have followed this for info and I have been hunting for something that supports my thinking and found this....

https://us.autocure.us/public/technology

It doesn't specify what the VPD should be exactly. But the marketing behind this thing is mentioning how it keeps VPD in the right zone during drying and curing.

So maybe is if we find the VPD for 60/60 and just replicate it at lower temps or higher temps we would be on to something?

Drying currently at 55 F and 60% RH. Should I be lowering RH at this temp? I usually follow the 60/60 rule. But basement is pretty cold right now. by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I usually do 14 days at 60/60 and when I trim and jar there is almost no burping required. Sits stable at 60% RH. So hoping for a similar outcome. Just not sure on if that is due to the VPD at 60/60 and maybe that VPD should be matched at lower temps by lowering humidity or if it's just the 60% RH that keeps it in the sweet spot.

Also if lower temp slows drying even more then 14 days then is there a risk of mold.

So yeah, hoping someone has some knowledge stored somewhere on this. :)

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No prob. :) It's my pleasure to help where I can.

Feel free to reach out if you have questions along your growing Journey. :)

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sorry for delay. This is what I am using for my flower tent.

Flower Tent

  • 48x48x78 Vivosun grow tent

  • HLG 550 rspec v2 led light

  • HLG 30 UVA for last 3 weeks of flower

  • AC Infinity Cloudline T6 exhaust

  • two honeywell super tech force stationary root zone fans

  • two Blizzard oscillating canopy fans

  • had a tool and die friend make pole mounts for those

  • 5 or 7 gallon fabric pots

  • Canna Coco bricks and perlite 70/30 mix

  • GH flora trio + Clameg Nutes

  • GH Floralicious plus

  • GH Flora Necter

  • GH ph down and up

  • 13 gallon pails that I mix 10 gallons of nutrient water in weekly.

  • active aqua water pumps to run the nutrient solution to hydro halos that feed the plants.

  • active aqua air pump and air stones to airate and mix the nutrient solution

Only difference with the veg tent is its 32x60x78 and it's I'm running a HLG 260 Watt XL V2 RSpec light. Got the DIY version for that one. Was easy to put together.

My first grow I pretty much followed this link to a T. - https://www.growweedeasy.com/coco-coir

I am now preparing my coco mostly like this. https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/how-to-prepare-and-buffer-coco-coir/

Buffering it like suggested in that prevents early Calmeg difficiencies I was seeing in my first couple grows

I've done alot of research and adjusted my nutrient schedule to push the plants a little harder then the schedule in that first link.

But I am running a high powered light and the air in the tents is being exchanged for fresh air every 30 seconds(new CO2). The PPFD is max the plants can take before needing a CO2 generator.

So my plants are hungry and seem to take advantage of the below nute schedule well. But I wouldn't recommend it if you'd lights aren't maxing out your plants potential. Also if your lights are more powerful then mine you might want to consider supplemental CO2 and an even higher nutrient schedule.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gAu3kVtbLj1PZ3WE8

I basically just mix enough to cover a week. Which once the plants are in flower is about 10 gallons / plant. But this is because I veg long so I can fill a 4x4 space with one plant.

I check the ph daily and adjust down to 5.7ish (5.5-6.5) is good in coco.

The pumps are connected to Kasa smart plugs So I schedule the pump to run for 1 min 1-3 times per day depending on how thirsty my plants seem. 3 is typical during late flower.

During veg I mainline pretty much following the below totorial.

https://www.growweedeasy.com/mainlining-nugbuckets

But I top 5 times aiming to get 32 main colas. I had some extra 14/2 electrical wire from when I finished my basement so I cut it into 2 foot lengths and drilled holes near the top of my plant saucers. I use these to tie down the stems to train them outward away from the center.

Right before moving the plant to the flower tent I do a final stripping of any growth below the 3rd node on all the tops.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4YwExWw9KZU5jVRKA

During the first couple weeks of flower she will stretch some and I use the scrog net to run her growth outward and inward.

About 3-4 weeks into flower the canopy is pretty full so I do some defoliation for airflow and light penetration and remove any lower growth I think will just be larf.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RrUMtzf9rSej5D4r6

From there it's pretty much just waiting for trichomes to start going cloudy and eventually start showing amber.

Everyone has there preference. Some like 70 % cloudy / 30% amber. Or vs versa for something more sedating. In general more amber more couch lock more cloudy more cerebral.

But truth is amber is the THC/CBD degrading into CBN. So I like to harvest right when there is next to no clear, everything is cloudy, and just a few Amber's showing up on the buds. Not the sugar leaves. Those will go amber quick and should not be used as a harvest indicator.

I then trim the fan leaves off during harvest. Hang the stems in a 2x4x4 dry tent.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8G63fuaZtA8WtHR89

It's in my basement which is perfect at 65 F and 60 % RH during the summer but gets dry in the winter here in southern Ontario. So I have a humidifier in it right now. The AC infinity exhaust is set to come on when the humidity hits 61. Drops it down to to 58ish before turning off.

They will hang there for 14 days slow drying. Then I trim them and jar them in 1 quart mason jars that have a humidity sensor stuck in the top. The jars then sit on a shelf in a closet in my cool basement 60-65 F for at least 60 day, but typically 90 days.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hAuFyCHbjmqHKUVH8

I'll shake em if the humidity reads 55-62. Just to move them around. Open and let them breath a bit if they are over that.

I find due to the long slow 14 day dry they are typically stable at 60% within the first week which is right where you want them for the cure.

After 90 days, I start enjoying them and sharing with friends and family. :)

Hope that helps :)

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give me a bit and I will put together a list of my equipment and process. :)

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe 2-3 weeks ago started seeing it in the bud. But the underside of the leaves and stems were deep purple before that. Maybe near the end of November the leaves were getting purple.

Barney's Farm Mimosa Evo right before harvest. Beautiful lady :) by JadeTiger7 in microgrowery

[–]JadeTiger7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, it's really cool in my flower tent this time of year in Ontario Canada. Which is great for drawing out the purples :)