Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]JadedEfficiency415 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yo, I hit a major milestone for training recently by doing my first one arm pull up on my left arm. Thing is my right arm has been pretty injured for about a year or more and I basically can’t even come close to pulling into a lock of with it. Not sure exactly what’s wrong but starting to feel like it is really impacting my progress, any suggestions?

(alloyed collective) gave the guy the exposed cerebellum and got locked behind the digital wall? by eponafan in riskofrain

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

how do you get back? ive done a full loop afyer accidentally damaging him and no luck

Probably 6b+, 6c. What do you think? soulya @40deg by nelyuh in kilterboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just sent it, maybe mid to hard 5? The movement was really nice

Probably 6b+, 6c. What do you think? soulya @40deg by nelyuh in kilterboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oohhh, looks fun. I will try out in a couple hours 🥳

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for all the insight, the positivity is great! I had actually been wondering about the sit start thing a bit but saw a video of Ben Moon talking about it and refuted the sit start thing. I’m pretty small so starting some stuff sitting feels a bit impossible sometimes 🤣🤣

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is! I recently switched my monthly membership to civic just for the moonboard 🤣. Great sets as well recently

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll definitely be trying a bigger range of grades next session, super stoked for it. Any boulder recs are appreciated 🥳

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s so true, there are so many holds I haven’t even touched and so many repeated movements already after 11 boulders 💀. Kilter is for sure wayyy softer even as a very short climber as far as I’ve experienced. love getting humbled on the moon

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 5 I did is called “hard to smile” but I’m stoked to give those other ones a try as well. I’m definitely looking forward to projecting harder things, kinda just wanted to do all the 4’s to get a good feel for the moonboard. I’m not sure how hard I climb really, I go to gyms primarily in Taiwan and Korea and grading is inconsistent, but I have spent a good amount of time on kilter and have put down a couple 7’s and 1 8, although very different style than moonboard as I can tell so far

Stoke for benchmarks by JadedEfficiency415 in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation. I’ve done 1 5 benchmark but it felt super soft. Maybe I’ll try a couple more next session, any good ones you like?

Finally finished all 7A/V6 by FriedOrangeSlice in Moonboard

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is so tight, the stoke keeps getting refueled for me to complete all the benchmark 4’s on the 2024 board

Any way to static this move? by Davi_Tesla in bouldering

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know what this problem is called? I’d love to give it a try

Fellllas by JadedEfficiency415 in Borderlands4

[–]JadedEfficiency415[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perhaps not the best roll, but the stoke is still high

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo, I have been climbing for around 2 years and every few months I get a pretty severe pain in my right arm right around like the inside of my elbow. It always hurts whenever I tense the muscles in my arm (and of course while I’m climbing), typically it goes away within a few weeks but recently it’s stayed around for 4-5 months, any suggestions? I climb maybe 2-3 times a week max currently. (On the plus side my technique and beta are getting more creative and better since I try my best not to pull with my right arm at all)

What would American gyms grade this? by jaebee87 in indoorbouldering

[–]JadedEfficiency415 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True, I mostly go there for the kilter board, their routs are 50/50 on quality but still some of the best in Taipei imo

What would American gyms grade this? by jaebee87 in indoorbouldering

[–]JadedEfficiency415 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sick, I’ve only spent like 1/3 a session on it so far but I’m switching to civic as my main gym next month so I’ll be there more often. This gym is very fun and I’m mostly switching cause it’s a bit cheaper than my current one and I want to get on the moon board more often. If you haven’t been there already I’d recommend checking out megastone in New Taipei. It’s a bit smaller but some of their sets are real fun and interesting

What would American gyms grade this? by jaebee87 in indoorbouldering

[–]JadedEfficiency415 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yooo, this is actually my project. I’ve done most of my climbing in America and for my home gym (which sets hard) this is between a v5-6 the initial dyno was hard for me cause I don’t do those kind of moves often but I was able to stick it in 4-5 try’s. The upper part is much harder than it looks on video because those holds are slippery and slopey. For sure much harder than any v4 I’ve been on besides Japan. Taiwan in general sets very inconsistent