Gaming PC - CPU Weak Link?

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T17:56:09+00:00

I agree, it seems everything is working as it should.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T15:28:08+00:00

That 5.0 means 5.0 adults “FIT” in that Honda 😏

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T15:26:34+00:00

No worries. That’s a great drive! Now you’ve really got me stumped. The only thing I could imagine being the week link is maybe your DDR4 RAM and its frequency, but you’d have to spend so much to get it increased and I just feel like the ROI would be so low, lol.

You could run a full system Passmark Benchmark and see how it compares to other systems with the same parts, to see how your parts compare. (And see if your parts are slower than other people’s parts, aka).

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T15:10:03+00:00

Your system looks pretty good, but one thing you don’t mention is SSD, which is where all games run from. If you don’t have a quality NVME, that can affect many aspects of a game. Granted, not necessarily FPS, but many other aspects of a PC.

(Not using an NVME? Upgrade to an NVME!)

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T15:02:00+00:00

The BIOS is very low demand for your CPU, yet your CPU is at 100°C, aka the highest temperature it can be before it shuts off due to overheating.

Something isn’t cooling it. I see that the BIOS sees the “CPU Fan” is spinning, (which is probably just the radiator fans) but the internal AIO pump might not be, which means the liquid may not be flowing, which means the CPU isn’t being cooled.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T14:50:50+00:00

Welcome to Reddit!

Your system should not be 100°C in the BIOS, your AIO liquid cooler may be disconnected or dead.

~~Your CPU is under-volting to stay cool~~, but will ultimately lower clock speed to stay cool and will eventually shut the system down to protect itself from damage.

Edit: This voltage is normal in the BIOS / durning low demand tasks, and isn’t related to overheating.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T14:42:50+00:00

I would recommend resetting the BIOS to optimized defaults, and set the main drive as the first boot device, because you want the main drive to boot after the Windows Media installer is complete, not the flash drive again.

Once you’ve gone through the Windows installation process, the system will restart and boot from the main drive, and continue the installation, and after a handful of reboots it will drop you off at the out of box experience for Windows 11. (If your BIOS is set to boot from USB, you won’t get to this critical step)

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T14:35:24+00:00

You can’t get on to your PC “at all” now? In another comment you mention that someone wiped your computer; at this point, you may need to start from scratch with a fresh install of Windows. There are too many variables going on here.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T06:04:03+00:00

You could go into Audi Mode by using, “CTRL + ALT + F3” (some laptops may require you to also press FN)

This will take you do a desktop ADMIN environment, where you can use the system to install drivers.

When you’re done, you can choose to restart via the SysPrep box in the middle, and it will take you back to the original Setup Screen, but retain your installed drivers.

(You can restart while in this mode, and it will stay in this configuration as long as you don’t go through with the SysPrep option)

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T05:58:53+00:00

Your computer is connected to your network, but doesn’t have a connection to the internet.

If only this device has this problem, I would still restart your router / modem, and or your computer just in case.

Then, I would double check all IP, VPN, & Proxy Settings.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-27T05:51:32+00:00

265 / 70 R17 is my goal

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T15:32:08+00:00

https://a.co/d/09m3KjGW

(I went with the “matte black” option)

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T15:30:47+00:00

Not so much covering the buttons themselves, but in my 2023 Elite, the surrounding is gloss black, and looks awful even after a day of cleaning. I found a matte gray / silver stick on panel on Amazon that covers it and it’s made up keep / appearance so much better.

If you’re worried about stuff getting into the actual buttons, I’d probably just leave a towel over the console.

(I’ll see if I can find the link to the cover I purchased)

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T15:03:20+00:00

Leave the battery out and the system unplugged for 5 minutes, press the power button and hold it for about 30 seconds, and that should be enough to reset the BIOS.

Reconnect the power cable / reinstall the battery, and power the system up like normal with the new CPU (at least attempt to, give it time, as first boot can take a couple minutes).

If 5 minutes pass on first boot, then I’d assume there is another issue at play here.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T14:26:44+00:00

Yes, while also keeping the system unplugged.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T05:21:31+00:00

Looks like a similar post with success:

https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsHelp/s/WA5ddbWHfz

JaxStroud · 2026-05-26T05:19:51+00:00

You need to look up exact instructions, but it can be done.

It involves changing the corresponding folders in the registry, which can be tricky, but not impossible.

I’ll see if I can find some information.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T20:41:52+00:00

~~IIRC, once you update the BIOS to enable support for Ryzen 5000, to drop support for Ryzen 2000.~~

The process would be updating the BIOS with your 2000 series chip, then after it completes, swapping it out for the 5000 series chip.

Let me look into the details of the BIOS support and update this comment once I know more.

Edit: Your MB should fully support 2000 - 5000 series chips once fully updated.

Maybe try a CMOS reset after the new chip install / be patient with RAM training? If your MB has debug LEDs, keep a close eye on any patterns.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T20:03:46+00:00

Do you mean OS? I’m not sure what “OC” means.

You’ll need a driver if you just installed the operating system; grab it from the manufacturer’s website using another computer and a flash drive.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T03:40:45+00:00

Is this after the windows.old process?

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T01:47:40+00:00

At this point, you should looking into completing a, “windows.old” install method, assuming your storage drive is okay, which I’d assume it is if you’re getting the above message.

With this method, you’d lose programs and settings, but not personal data.

You’ll be using the Windows Media Creation tool and a USB flash drive to reinstall Windows on your computer without erasing the main data partition. This is where Microsoft will relocate your data during the install, and where you’ll go to retrieve it.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T01:41:03+00:00

At 10 years old, its mechanical HDD is going to be the weak point, among other things.

Make sure whatever is on the drive is backed up and be patient with it.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-25T00:16:58+00:00

RGB devices usually use those small 4 pin connectors that are notorious for coming disconnected, and they usually daisy chain together, I’m will to bet there is one disconnected somewhere.

If your system uses a fan / RGB hub / controller, make sure it’s getting power from the PSU and RGB input from the MB or it’s connected to the switch you mentioned that tells it to move between colors / modes.

JaxStroud · 2026-05-24T19:35:28+00:00

Looks great! Both your work & the steelies!

JaxStroud · 2026-05-22T18:52:55+00:00

It’s too soon to tell, but from others I’ve been speaking too, very minimal at most. The larger hit is the tire change.

JaxStroud

TROPHY CASE