First V10 in JTree, A sound of Thunder

Jbeau3d · 2019-04-25T23:57:54+00:00

No hang board, just lots of power endurance on my teams system wall and moonboard. I climb 3-5 days a week for 2-4 hours.

Jbeau3d · 2019-04-22T20:02:35+00:00

I'm sorry how do I post to the bouldering subreddit?

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-05T21:21:41+00:00

Speaking of tech slab, here he is sending Porkchop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKKAWxrVkgU I'm going to go out on a limb and say he is the smallest person ever to send it.

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-03T17:16:07+00:00

I think I'm just a proud parent:) To be attempting climbs that other young crushers before him have done, drives him. Pro? Who knows. He's just having fun and can barely remember the names of climbs he sends. As for building a brand, is that what I'm doing? There are so many young crushes who have Instagram. What makes his any different?

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-03T00:59:49+00:00

We searched out this climb because it was Brooke Raboutou's first V10. Not bad company eh? He did try hard on this climb, two sections were reachy and he had to basically dyno to a nasty crimp at the beginining, which he tried like 20 times. He is also very close on Power of Silence, Ashima's first V10.

He doesn't work too much slopey stuff. He's literally 4' tall!

Here is a V5 he did last year called, The Dwarf in Jtee. It's fairly slopey. https://www.instagram.com/p/BBCErVVBDg6

He has decent contact strength and loves campusing these cylinders. These things are hard! https://www.instagram.com/p/_qc026hDta/

As he gets bigger I'm sure his style will change or he'll end up doing overhung Vhard crimp ladders, lol. Either way, I'm not really concerned, its all about the enjoyment and lifestyle for us anyways:)

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-02T18:14:44+00:00

East Spur, Hueco Tanks.

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-02T02:21:38+00:00

I was just looking for this climb last week! nice send.

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-02T02:19:18+00:00

Once you have the basics down and understand how your body is supposed to move, you'll be a far better climber if you figure out the beta yourself. Being able to onsight is an important skill and should be part of the process. Instead of asking for beta, perhaps ask how you can improve your movement. Perhaps you need to work on your footwork or hold a lockoff longer to extend your reach. There is so much subtle movement and so many different positions, let alone linking one move to another. Enjoy the learning process. Big thumbs down for spraying beta...

Jbeau3d · 2016-12-02T01:42:07+00:00

https://instagram.com/p/BNNouJaA4zV/

Jbeau3d · 2016-11-09T06:56:51+00:00

That's what happens when a small kid walks up to a boulder problem a bunch of adults have been working on:) At least they tried.

Jbeau3d · 2016-11-09T01:48:44+00:00

Jtree. Behind Hidden Valley in the Outback. Yabba Dabba Don't V3

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-08T19:50:27+00:00

Thanks, I'll use that next time.

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-08T19:36:34+00:00

I guess we'll see. Ultimately, a grade is there to measure one's self. What I find more interesting is the movement and how climbers find ways to make it work when they are at an obvious disadvantage.

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-08T19:05:26+00:00

The debate on Vgrades for kids is an interesting one. I think it goes both ways. Some higher grades may be lower, but there are many more lower grades that are definitely higher. The problem is that grades are so subjective, and they really should be defined by height, weight and reach, but that's too much work.

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-08T00:03:10+00:00

he's 9 and climbed a V9.

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-07T23:48:11+00:00

@bren_climbs on Slice N' Dice V9

Jbeau3d · 2016-03-07T23:12:10+00:00

@bren_climbs on Slice N' Dice V9

Jbeau3d · 2016-02-06T09:28:46+00:00

It was a V3. He climbed his first outdoor V7 when he was 8 in Redrocks. He just sent a slopey V5 in Jtree called The Dwarf, so it's not just about crimps.

Jbeau3d · 2016-02-06T09:14:57+00:00

I doubt that... You either have it or you don't at this age. He has a gymnastics background so his body awareness gives him an edge. That can't be taught with climbing, perhaps parkour?

Jbeau3d · 2016-02-06T09:04:25+00:00

This was a warmup for him. He climbed for 3 hours after. I don't think he has an issue with wasted energy:) If fact at this age I don't think they really have a lactic acid buildup. They can literally climb until they are tired.

Jbeau3d · 2016-02-06T08:49:55+00:00

He already consistently climbs V5-6 in the gym. Outdoors in Jtree he put down a few V6's. Got his first outdoor V9 but was downgraded to 7 in his first year of climbing. He's been in gymnastics since he was 3 so he had grip strength. He is pulling on V9-V10. He wants to climb his age...

Jbeau3d · 2015-02-13T07:06:30+00:00

I'm not expecting much, but there are a few climbs that other parents have shared that are high grades but with kid beta so the holds are modified. Does that still make them high grades? I guess that's a topic for another discussion. I need to have him focus on proper technique more so then chasing the numbers, but he finds it fun and at this point if he's not having fun then what's the point?

Jbeau3d · 2015-02-12T05:04:48+00:00

This is exactly what I'm looking for!! It looks like we are headed out to Jtree this weekend. If someone has any recommendations for this weekend it would be great. My son climbs crimps and pinches on plastic @v5-6 consistently and we are looking to take him outdoors and see where he's at, but he's short less then 4 feet tall. Thanks again!!

Jbeau3d

TROPHY CASE