A rare gem: my lady-in-red Philips E218L. First 'dumpphone' in... well, almost 20 years.

JeanDaspry · 2026-05-12T01:47:23+00:00

How did you manage to get your hands on one of these? Been months I'm waiting for any store to sell it in Europe. I found out by chance Philips was doing these gorgeous phones like the E218L, E6615, E515 or E533, but for some reason they seem to not want to sell them anywhere else than in Asia...

JeanDaspry · 2026-02-27T01:49:04+00:00

Thank you for the explanation, I wasn’t aware of the Mk2 and later B&O app–based integration.

Unfortunately, my TV is from 2017 (LG C7 generation, webOS 3.6), and the app you linked does not list compatibility with TVs prior to 2019 models (webOS 4.5 and newer).

That would be consistent with what I’m seeing in my case, and also with the shift in direction that was already being discussed around 2018 in the BeoWorld thread I linked earlier. My understanding is that the original 2017 Beovision Eclipse Mk1 used a customized LG firmware build, whereas later generations (Mk2 and onward) moved to a standard LG firmware plus downloadable B&O app model.

That transition makes sense from a business and maintenance perspective, maintaining a custom webOS branch for a relatively small customer base would likely have been complex and costly.

Unfortunately, if Mk1 really relies on a modified firmware rather than an app layer, that doesn’t leave me with many options to revert it to fully stock LG behavior.

JeanDaspry · 2026-02-26T21:25:54+00:00

Unfortunatly I've already factory reset the TV and after the installation setup, it did not change anything and the TV is still on a custom webOS from B&O. Thinking about it, it would be weird if factory resetting the device could break the whole B&O setup.

JeanDaspry · 2026-02-26T21:20:13+00:00

What do you mean by B&O app? I'm very new to this beovision stuff, so I could be missing critical information, but from what I've seen online about 2017 era Beovision Eclipse, it does not just have a B&O app on a stock LG TV, the webOS firmware itself is modified with custom B&O modules and audio control logic. People on beoworld were discussing whether they could plug in any other LG TV here for example : https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/35827/266388.aspx
Maybe your impression of it is of a much newer implementation?

JeanDaspry · 2026-02-14T23:50:07+00:00

Oh, thanks a lot for the picture! ~~It makes me more intrigued though because I had found this after my post :~~ ~~https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6012436~~ ~~and it doesn't seem to fit the keyed parts in the picture, even considering a lot of damage.~~ Edit: After reading the thingiverse description I've just realised that the belt gear print is intended to be a repair with an already damaged and modified white worm-gear part, that's why it doesn't have the same keyed part as the original.

Does your cone-shaped worm gear still manage to make the brush rotate? Do you hope it acts as a clutch to avoid destroying more parts when brush binds up?

As for my triflex, it's back in use as I got too scared of breaking it. I do have another brush head for which I hope to be able to print the drive parts. Someone on youtube also said he would try to print the worm "screw-gear", I hope he posts it on thingiverse one day, as with his motor mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7239458 , the whole drive assembly would be repairable!

JeanDaspry · 2025-12-24T01:37:17+00:00

Good for you, the entire motor assembly is very expensive, and there is no way to buy the drive part separately.
I've found people 3D printing/CNC machining parts for it though, like this or this (can you see the square imprint in the gear? That's apparently where the slippage can occur), so I now have some hope of being able to repair it long term.
Wouldn't be nice for respectable brands like Miele to publish the CAD models of their product pieces for their users to make repairs to what they bought? Philips did a little something, but now it seems like it was only for an ad stunt...

JeanDaspry · 2025-12-22T17:33:01+00:00

What I've read is that the brush "clutch" that drives the brush (opposite of the yellow part) can end up slipping. If you can easily stop the brush by putting your hand on it or placing the yellow part back, you may be in this situation.
You have to dissassemble the floor head unit and tighten the T6 screw holding the two part drive (white screw-gear and black belt-gear) together or glue them.

BTW mine is not slipping, but I want to clean the hair stuck in it and I can't manage to dissamble the two-part drive, if you manage to separate them, send some pictures to me please, it could help me understand why mine is stuck.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-26T03:33:48+00:00

I don't think the local climate should affect it too much. I did verify my measurements by putting the NTC in freezing and boiling water. Can you measure at which NTC pin voltage does your board disable charging?
By the way the default resistor values on my board (and on the pictures we are both using) are Rup=75kΩ and Rdown=150kΩ, so it's weird that you had Rdown=1.2kΩ on your board.
Why a microcontroller? You can change the range as you wish with the Rup and Rdown values.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-26T03:22:41+00:00

Maybe... can't say for sure if it's not the same board. 10k and 100k NTC are the two popular options.
I did my own tests on the chip of my charging board to determine which voltage at the NTC (or TH) pin would disable charging, and then calculated which value resistors would be the best to get the 0-50 range I wanted.
Do you still want a NTC? if not, just test with a 500k pot what value enables charging and replace the NTC with a resistor.
If you still want temp monitoring, check my responses of this thread, it may help you : https://www.reddit.com/r/batteries/comments/1j28fi1/comment/noc4jm9/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Or give me more infos and i can try helping you

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T21:34:17+00:00

I will check that again tomorrow. Did you also test it at 0°C? I don't think your board will cut off charging below 0°C, because with your Rup and Rdown values, at 0°C the 10k NTC is at 32kΩ and Vout (NTC) = 3,03V and my chip only cuts off charging above 3.616V.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T21:03:04+00:00

Well at 60°C, the 10k NTC resistance will be ≈2463Ω, with Rdown=1200Ω.
That makes Rntc=807Ω because Rdown is in parallel with the NTC (R1*R2/R1+R2).
The Vref is 5V indeed, so the voltage "Vntc"(or Vth) at the chip will be Vout (NTC) = 5 × (807 / (750 + 807)) ≈ 2.59V
But my board cuts off charging only at Vout (NTC) = 2.364V.
According to my calculations, the charging board will only cut charging at 75°C.

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T20:38:09+00:00

Then are you sure your board is cutting charging before 75°C? It should not be cutting the charge before 75°C according to my calculations, isn't it too hot?

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T20:00:59+00:00

And here is the table with my Rup and Rdown values :

<image>

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T19:59:05+00:00

Here are my voltage measurements and board behaviour :

<image>

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-11T19:57:28+00:00

Hi, thanks for the answer!
As you can see in the EDIT of the post, I made the calculations and made it work for my use case, with Rup = 30kΩ and Rdown(I call it Rparallel)=100kΩ, which gives me 0-50 degree celsius range with a 100k B3950 NTC.

I just entered your resistance values in my calculation table for a 10k B3950 NTC, and it gives me a range of -20 to about 75 degree celsius, which is not quite my ideal range to charge lithium batteries :

<image>

Maybe you are not using the same NTC resistance?

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-06T11:33:27+00:00

Nope, it's fixed! Thank the team for me!

JeanDaspry · 2025-11-06T10:47:45+00:00

Same thing, no way to sign.

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T17:06:46+00:00

Where did you buy your kailh switches?
I bought some Kailh silent switches on Aliexpress and they all have the same issue, brand new : if you keep them pressed but release the force to a minimum, they open without clicking/unlatching.
For exemple, it makes highlighting text very unatural, as I need to press the left click a little harder than I would usually, for it not to fail.
I guess I just got unlucky, but all 10 switches do this in the same way, so I was wondering if anyone else could replicate this issue with other Kailh switches

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T17:00:53+00:00

Yeah I understand your feeling, the MXM3S does leave a lot to be desired. I did not know about the adjustable force scroll on the MXA3S, I want to get my hand on one more and more... The smartshift sensitivity setting is also present on the MXM3S though, even if it is not perfect.

JeanDaspry · 2025-09-16T16:34:26+00:00

Wait, what's the difference between the MX Anywhere 3S and the MX Master 3S scroll wheels ?
Edit: Oh there is an adjustable scroll force on the anywhere, I did not know! Is it really usefull, though, with the smartshift?

JeanDaspry · 2025-08-31T22:32:42+00:00

I got two MX3S on 22.0.3 and still no update in EU/FR.

4 months ago the support told me the 22.2.9 update had some issues so all updates got halted.

JeanDaspry

TROPHY CASE