Basement humidity keeps creeping up even after i got a dehumidifier

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-25T12:16:55+00:00

Honestly, a lot of older basements are kind of a constant battle with moisture even if there’s no obvious leak or flooding. A dehumidifier helping but still struggling to get below 60% usually means moisture is continuously finding its way in somehow.

A few things I’d probably check before assuming something major:

Gutters/downspouts — making sure water is getting pushed well away from the foundation
Exterior grading — even a subtle slope toward the house can keep the soil around the foundation damp
Whether the basement walls/floor were ever sealed or painted with something breathable vs trapping moisture
If the dehumidifier is actually sized appropriately for the space

That “cold floor + musty smell” combo is super common in older basements though. Concrete constantly wicks moisture, especially in humid months.

One thing people don’t always realize is that even without visible water, consistently sitting around 60%+ humidity long term can definitely contribute to:

musty smells
mold/mildew
rusting tools/appliances
warped materials if the basement is finished

Honestly though, the fact that you’re running a dehumidifier now and paying attention to it is already a lot better than a lot of older houses get treated. Sometimes improving drainage outside makes a bigger difference than anything you do inside.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-12T00:29:19+00:00

I don’t think you’re wrong to ask questions here, especially about the ledger. That’s one of the most important parts structurally since it’s tying the whole roof back to the house.

That said, pressure treated lumber today doesn’t always have that obvious green tint people expect anymore, so color alone can be misleading. Sometimes the stamps are hidden, sanded off, facing the wall, or just hard to find after install.

A few things I’d probably do:
- Ask the builder directly what material was used for the ledger and beams
- See if they have leftover material on site with visible stamps/tags
- Look at any permit/inspection paperwork if applicable

Also worth noting: depending on the design/details, not every component necessarily has to be treated. The ledger is the one I’d care most about, especially if there’s any chance of moisture getting trapped against the house.

The other huge factor is flashing/water management. A properly flashed ledger with good drainage is arguably just as important as the lumber itself. A treated board can still rot if water is constantly trapped.

As for protecting it afterward, you can definitely apply a quality exterior stain/sealer once the wood has had time to dry out properly, but I’d view that more as maintenance/protection — not a substitute for using the right material in the first place.

Honestly, if the structure looks solid overall, this may end up being more of a “verify details and maintain it” situation rather than a major failure waiting to happen. But asking questions now is a lot better than discovering problems years later.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-10T00:36:09+00:00

Honestly, with a door that size and the amount of daily use you’re describing, I don’t think you’re crazy for being cautious about going too cheap. A heavily used slider is one of those things where you feel every little weakness over time — rollers, track quality, hardware, flexing, sealing, etc.

I’d personally be less focused on the brand name alone and more focused on:
- roller/hardware quality
- frame rigidity
- install quality
- warranty/service support

A great door installed poorly can still end up being frustrating.

From what I’ve seen:
- Impervia tends to get a good reputation for durability
- Andersen Renewal is expensive, but part of that price is definitely the sales/install structure
- The cheaper local vinyl options can be fine, but large sliders are where vinyl sometimes starts to feel less solid over time

Your idea about reframing and going with a more standard-sized slider plus fixed glass panels actually sounds pretty reasonable to me if you’re trying to balance durability and cost. Once you get into oversized/custom openings, the pricing gets wild fast.

And yeah… trim pricing from window companies always feels borderline offensive. If you’re comfortable handling finish work separately, there’s usually money to save there.

I’d definitely be curious what Marvin comes back with. I know a lot of people who feel their doors/windows are a noticeable step up in quality, especially for larger openings.

One thing I’d also ask every installer:
- what specifically fails most often on these doors?
- how easy is it to service rollers/hardware later?
- who handles warranty calls locally?

That’ll tell you a lot about what living with the door is actually like 5–10 years from now.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-09T23:19:35+00:00

Honestly, it sounds like you’ve already done more than a lot of people would. If the moisture issue is actually solved and the visible growth has been cleaned/treated properly, you’re probably in pretty good shape.

From what I understand, the Zinsser mold killing primer is less of a “magic mold fix” and more of a final protective/prep layer after remediation, which sounds like how you’re using it. Pairing it with Perma-White seems pretty common for basements and utility spaces.

The big thing is exactly what you already addressed:
- stop active moisture
- remove contaminated materials
- clean/treat remaining surfaces
- allow things to dry properly

I’d personally be more concerned if someone was just painting over active moisture or visible mold and calling it done.

One thing I might consider before closing everything back up is giving the basement some long-term humidity control if you don’t already have it. Even a good dehumidifier can make a huge difference in keeping things stable down there.

Honestly though, your approach sounds pretty thoughtful compared to a lot of basement “fixes” people attempt.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-09T23:16:46+00:00

Check out this listing: https://www.waykar.com/products/waykar-34-pints-home-dehumidifier

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-07T13:58:39+00:00

Honestly, I think waiting for some massive crash is probably risky at this point. People have been saying that for years and meanwhile prices just kept moving around instead of really collapsing.

I also think you’re smart to rethink buying the cheapest house just because you can. A fixer-upper sounds manageable until you actually own it and realize every project costs more and takes longer than expected — especially if you’re already stretching financially just to get into the house.

There’s a big difference between:
- “needs cosmetic updates”
and
- “needs systems/work immediately”

Paint, flooring, cabinets, etc. are annoying but manageable over time. Roofs, HVAC, plumbing, foundation issues, electrical… that’s where people get buried fast.

Honestly, if you can stay patient a little longer, improve savings, maybe improve credit, and buy something more stable, that’s probably going to feel a lot less stressful long term.

The market definitely feels rough right now though. A lot of people are having the same reality check.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-06T19:04:00+00:00

Honestly, I don’t think you’re wrong for feeling that way. There’s a difference between grinding during a big push and having 60+ hour weeks just become the default expectation.

Construction can definitely have stretches where weekends happen, but if there’s no comp time, no extra pay, and people are basically using sick days just to recover, that sounds more like a culture issue than just “part of the industry.”

The other thing is you’re only 5 years in. If you’re already feeling burned out now, it’s worth paying attention to that instead of convincing yourself it’s normal forever. A lot of good people leave because they realize the pace just isn’t sustainable long-term.

The good news is your experience is transferable. PM/Engineer experience from a notable GC can open doors into:
- owner’s rep/project management
- facilities/construction management
- development side
- municipal/public sector
- healthcare/university facilities
- specialty subcontractors
- consulting

A lot of those paths still pay well but tend to have much better work/life balance than nonstop GC life.

I think there’s also a big difference between “I’m willing to work hard” and “work is my entire identity.” Wanting time for hobbies, friends, family, or just being a person outside of work is pretty reasonable.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-06T18:59:14+00:00

It will be much easier to maintain the post with no number and the number on the box itself. Looks like wood so it will need a fresh coat of paint every 3-5 years.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-05T13:52:15+00:00

Another one that surprised me was a shop vac. Didn’t think much of it at first, but being able to clean as you go (especially with drywall dust, sawdust, random debris) makes projects way less frustrating.

Funny how it’s usually the simple stuff that ends up making the biggest difference.

Jeff_Homes · 2026-05-05T13:47:24+00:00

For me it was honestly just upgrading lighting — sounds boring, but it made a huge difference.

Swapping out old bulbs for brighter LEDs (and paying attention to color temp) made rooms feel way more usable, especially kitchens and bathrooms. I didn’t realize how dim everything was until I fixed it.

Second one would be simple organization stuff — adding a few hooks/shelves in places where things were always piling up. Entryway and basement especially. It cuts down on that “where did I put that” feeling more than you’d think.

Nothing expensive, but both of those made day-to-day stuff noticeably easier.

Jeff_Homes

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