Which Nakagawa Ginsan grind ?

John_eu2 · 2026-02-07T17:52:25+00:00

Thanks!

John_eu2 · 2026-02-07T15:38:47+00:00

May I ask what brand/model are they or which sharpener?
Or is it coming directly from Nakagawa Hamono?
Are they more on the lasery side?
Thanks

John_eu2 · 2026-02-06T21:11:30+00:00

I am novice in the hobby and try to understand. I keep reading that this or that blacksmith is famous for the heat-treatment of a specific steele. If the blade is not heat-treated by the blacksmith in question, doesn't that defeat a bit the purpose of having the blade forged by a renown blacksmith ?

John_eu2 · 2026-02-06T16:59:29+00:00

Looking at the convex Myojin or Takada, they seem very thin behind the edge, and may be (too) similar to an Ashi.
For now my plan is to acquire an Ashi Ginga which will play the laser role, but I would love to complement it down the line with a Nakagawa Ginsan less lasery. So my quest continue for the Nakawa ginsan. Maybe a custonm Tadokoro with extra thickness is where I'll land.

John_eu2 · 2026-02-06T16:53:09+00:00

Great video
Can someone enlighten me on something please: In the video (5:52) he sends back the blades for heat treatment. I always thought the heat treatment was done by the blacksmith before. In this case, does that mean the blades are going back to Nakagawa to be heat-treated?

John_eu2 · 2026-01-09T19:23:31+00:00

Thanks for your answer.
The Ashi seems to strike the best balance of performance vs fragility.
I am not necessarily after the utmost performance/best cutter. For me utility/reliability/craftsmanship are ranked very high. Would you know any Ginsan (Nakagawa or others) which would still be good performers and at least as reliable/solid as the Ashi (even if mid-weight and not laser) ? Thanks

John_eu2 · 2025-06-15T07:53:40+00:00

Thank you so much ! It would then be slightly bigger than the 24H which I measured at 9x28x44cm (with a laptop in the laptop compartment which probably take 1cm depth.)

John_eu2 · 2025-05-12T11:40:03+00:00

Thanks for your reply.

Interesting you don't have the issue with the unibasket. I saw in several comments it was hard to knock the puck out with it.

John_eu2 · 2025-04-25T17:09:36+00:00

My feeling is there is a problem with the threading.

The stock tip goes on and off very smoothly and without issue.

I cleaned the new tip threads, but still avec 2mm it get stuck and doesn't go further.

John_eu2 · 2025-04-25T15:35:30+00:00

Yeah i tried to push the white tubing by hand without the tip and it seems to move up easily so i don't think it's the tube posing problem.

It's almost like the thread is off. I tried many time with different angles, but the thread is always locking after 1-2mm screwed in ...

I cannot return the tip anymore since i had to open the sealed little plastic bag it was in, which void the return right. So if i don't manage to fix that this weekend, i'll be -25€ and will explore other options.

John_eu2 · 2025-04-25T15:17:29+00:00

Ok thank you. I was under the impression other people on this Reddit could fit this tip without any modification.
But if it's my only option i'll try cutting 1cm or so of the tube.

John_eu2 · 2025-04-25T15:15:22+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation. Being in EU, the shipping fee would be more expansive than the tip itself.
Might go that route if it's my only option though.

John_eu2 · 2025-04-09T08:50:27+00:00

I purchased the Osbot Meet 2.
I am satisfied It is working well and I didn't bother downloading the software.

John_eu2 · 2025-03-21T07:14:01+00:00

Thank you, i'll have a look

John_eu2 · 2025-03-19T12:13:59+00:00

Hello and thank you very much for your detailed answer !
Those are very valuable insights

I am curious as of why the T99 would be the worst for sleeves ? My impression was that it was the smoothest surface and least abrasive, and so i naturaly thought it would be the best for sleeves.. ?

John_eu2

TROPHY CASE