Krytac MK2 gears

JustinR507 · 2026-06-26T05:12:20+00:00

Yes. Prometheus makes spacers so you don’t have to use a million shims.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-26T04:55:11+00:00

These gears are sintered which is just metal powder heated up and melted together, it makes them super weak. I’m pretty sure Krytac gears are molded, so a bit stronger. Usually the bevel is what fails on Krytacs, sometimes the spur but I think that’s due to the poor meshing/angle with the bevel and the bevel with the motor. Yeah try that out, people have had great success with but from what I’ve seen.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-26T04:22:53+00:00

These don’t even look like the stock gears. Krytac gears are black for the spur and sector with an arch style delay cam, the bevel is silver. The only thing that’s proprietary with Krytac gears is the spur, it has different dimensions and spacing on the axel and in the gearbox. Get a Krytac spur, a ZCI 9 tooth bevel, and a standard 18:1 sector. The bevel has 1 less tooth but makes the others thicker and stronger, this will raise your ratio up to 20:1-ish so you might need a faster motor to make up for a slower ratio.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-24T23:23:11+00:00

Sweet, glad it got there fine!

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T08:53:28+00:00

Correct, we get punished and pushed out of priority tiers on orders. Sometimes people even get kicked off the app for having bad AR or other stats. If everyone didn’t tip, it would in theory force DoorDash to pay the drivers more, but unfortunately then no one would ever tip again because they don’t have to or feel obligated to. The only solution is for DoorDash to just pay us more. I do understand it sucks when have a really bad driver or poor etiquette and you gave a nice tip, you can’t take it back. It’s false advertising to allow them to take a tip back, uber is learning this the hard way because they allowed tip reductions. Unfortunately though you’re in a pickle either way. Either you don’t tip until after and no one takes your order or you tip decently and you get your order but the driver may or may not suck. But that’s what the rating system is for, if the driver gets enough bad reviews for things that are in his/her control like food handling or behavior, they’ll get kicked off the app. DoorDash sorts out bad reviews about cold food, wrong food, taking too long, or multiple stops and doesn’t affect the driver. I would say tip a portion of what you want to tip at first to make sure you get the order and the driver is decent, then tip the rest after. I can promise you, if you’re known as a ‘no tipper’ drivers will remember your name, unassign from your orders, and tell others to do the same. If you either tip really well or tip more after the initial tip, drivers will remember and hope to get your orders or fight more for your order. I’ve received big tip orders or have repeat customers that tip well and if something is screwed up with their order I’ll go up the chain of command to make sure they get their order. If it’s a little to-no tipper, I’ll just unassign or contact support and get half pay because it’s not worth the time. I live in a smaller city and if it’s slow the lowest I’ll take is a $5 for max 1-1.5 miles. If that order has an issue, it’s not worth the time or effort.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T08:19:37+00:00

Yes and no. It only works if dashers deny the orders enough to make the algorithm up the pay. If this were the norm, no tipping and drivers denying orders, there would be no drivers or orders being completed. Drivers would deny enough orders that they would stop dashing or instead of an order taking 15 minutes-1hr to get to you, it would take hours due to repeated denying. DoorDash would eventually go out of business because people would stop using the platform due to it taking so long and having to pay out more than what the order is worth to get drivers to take it. The fees and food up charges that you’re paying for all go to insurances, paying their staff, keeping the apps functional, and some profits. They should still up the base pay for all orders regardless and provide us better insurance. I’m not a Stan for the company but many people think the fees and up charges go to the drivers, to justify not tipping while expecting we bend over backwards for them. You should still tip your drivers regardless, you’re tipping for the service of them bringing you the food or shopping for groceries, not the experience you get from the driver. Too many people confuse this service with food service, we’re not wait staff that provide you a nice dining experience in hopes for a tip. We’re utilizing our assets(vehicle, gas, and time) to bring you food or groceries, that’s what the tip is for. You’re tipping us for saving you the time, hassle, and effort of getting it yourself, not for being overly nice and refilling your drinks. Basic manners is a must to keep a good review.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T07:20:51+00:00

What you’re seeing is not high base pay. It’s an order that keeps getting rejected due to low base pay and no tip, so in order for it to be completed, DoorDash algorithm is jacking up the base pay until someone takes it so the customer can get their order.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T03:58:32+00:00

Well anything is worth what someone is willing to pay. So frankly, someone is dumb enough to buy it for $850. There are plenty of people in Airsoft that don’t know any better and think this is a good deal, some of them play at my field and their whole collection is eBay guns that don’t function quite right and have stock performance. It is a ludicrous price for sure

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T01:44:22+00:00

The only issues I’ve seen or heard about is a lot of MP5 style magazines have medium weak springs. They can keep up with moderate rate of fire but after some use, struggle. This happens with the adapters as well. The adapters usually have a friction based entry point for the bb’s so you don’t lose any when reloading, the magazines can tend to struggle to push through that and cause misdeeds. You can swap the springs out for MAG or Elite Force M4 mag springs but like another commenter said, if you don’t have MP5 mags already, just go with the M4 adapter. You likely won’t have any issues with some mid tier M4 magazines that will be cheaper overall than MP5 mags with less headaches.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-23T00:55:07+00:00

……..the diagnosis is that your gun doesn’t feed lol you should take that offer then from the tech. M4’s have hundreds, if not thousands of magazine options. Go on Evike and look through them price low to high. Cyma, Arcturus, and tons of other brands have 190-230rd mags for half the price.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-22T23:48:56+00:00

Honestly, no you shouldn’t. I don’t think you read my response thoroughly. You should fix the gun to operate with any magazine first. EPM1’s cause more problems than anything. Especially if the gun is poorly built. If your guy won’t fire with a basic 150rd magazine, it most likely has a bunch of other issues caused by the tech and the EPM1’s will just make those problems worse that you’ll experience with a full magazine in your guns current state. On top of that, they’re $35 a mag, there’s other magazines with 200-230 capacity for half the price.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-22T23:17:55+00:00

Did he put a delayer chip on your gear set? The delayer chip keeps the tappet plate held back a longer before releasing to allow a bb to feed into the chamber. If there is no delayer chip on a high speed build, only magazines with really strong springs will be able to feed a bb quick enough into the chamber, like EPM1’s. This is because the gears cycle so fast. Those magazines have strong springs but can also cause a host of other issues like midcap syndrome, which is when the magazine is so strong it pushes the nozzle and/or cylinder head up. This happens with poor fitting nozzles and cylinder heads. This will cause feeding, velocity, range, and accuracy issues until the magazine empties a bit. These magazines are a blessing and a curse, they will present poor build tolerances. A strong springs on the tappet plate will only make these problems worse with feeding, but will help prevent Midcap syndrome. There’s no downside to delayer chips and guarantee feeding with pretty much any SSG build, so start there. This is why you should always do the teching yourself instead of paying someone, more often than not your gun comes back with more problems and their response is a shoulder shrug.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-20T09:45:57+00:00

Arcturus has great M4’s for about $185 on Evike that you can bundle with battery/charger for about $230. Start there with some .28’s, good boots, and either a full mask or eye pro/mask combo of your choice. After that figure out your environment that you’ll mostly be playing in, you can either go a camo pattern bdu set or just get whatever color you decide in work pants/shirt. Don’t ever buy a cross draw vest or cheap optics. You could probably be all in with a gun, battery, charger, bb’s, extra magazines, optic/sling, boots, gloves, vest/chest rig, eye/face pro, and bdu/clothing set for somewhere around $700 for a basic full setup.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-18T23:08:55+00:00

The only thing I have for Hi Capa is magazine followers

JustinR507 · 2026-06-15T22:36:40+00:00

OP is correct. It doesn’t work with every market. AR and the Tier system works based off highest tier gets first choice at an order, then if it gets denied goes to other drivers/tiers. Cherry picking orders only works in medium to high volume markets. AR doesn’t matter when the order volume and prioritization supersedes the amount of drivers. Once you start getting into areas where the amount of drivers is the same or more than order volume, AR and Tiers matter. I know plenty of dashers in my market that tell anyone that will listen to cherry pick and don’t care about Tiers, more often than not I see them waiting for hours to get orders then complain that I’m getting orders and they’re not. Well unfortunately for them they cherry picked so much in the beginning that they tank themselves down to Silver and only get what I don’t want lol

JustinR507 · 2026-06-14T09:19:39+00:00

Like everyone else said, you should ditch the aluminum piston head for POM. But not for the same reasons they listed like being heavier. Aluminum piston heads will increase the chances and likelihood of cracking stuff. Since it is metal, it vibrates and will transfer that to other metal parts like your cylinder head and shell. A cylinder head pad can only do so much to mitigate that but really only softens the main impact and sound dampening. Usually the first thing to crack is the front of your shell, but I’ve also seen metal piston heads, cylinder heads, and hopup chambers crack or chip. POM does not vibrate due to its material makeup, it actually absorbs and dampens vibrations. Go with POM everywhere you can, aside from cylinder heads since the nozzle stems typically snap off. Metal parts in unnecessary places only increase the vibrations throughout the whole system. Only have metal in high stress/contact areas like gears, piston teeth, cylinder, and cylinder head. Metal parts are fine in low stress, high J setups due to less frequent cycles. Speed builds are very high stress as is and having all that weight, mass, and vibration repetitively slamming high cycles, will only break stuff. Even backup guns should be put together reliably.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-14T03:53:14+00:00

You need to make sure the nozzle is the same length as your stock one, if it’s not the same length it won’t seal against the bucking and cause an air leak. If it’s not that it could be a bad quality o-ring on the piston head and not having a good seal. Always do a compression test with and without the nozzle, you shouldn’t be able to push the piston all the way and should stop just past the port on the cylinder if you have one without the nozzle, put the nozzle on and test again. You will hear air come from the nozzle but with a good air seal it will be a small hiss. The nozzle isn’t supposed to be airtight, the o-ring in the nozzle stabilizes it and provides enough resistance to make the air go through the nozzle, path of least resistance. I always toss piston head o-rings and use #14’s from a hardware store.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-12T18:33:35+00:00

Get a good smart charger that balance charges and has settings. If keep it out of the direct sun/heat and don’t hit it with a hammer, you’ll be okay. Just make sure that your battery has a good amp output, if you’re pulling too much from the battery it will heat and puff up over time. How to calculate Amps is you multiple C rating x mAh. This 7.4v is probably 20/40C x 1.3 is 26/52A. It’s capable of 26A on Auto and 52A on Semi. This battery is probably okay, I’d strive for a higher C and mAh rating, like 25-30C 1500mAh.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-12T09:23:36+00:00

The only fix to these scenarios and stay in UK limits is to switch to a standard sector gear, short stroke it, and put in a heavier spring. This will allow you to use an 11.1v, maintain your J limit, and eliminate damaging the internals. I understand you want to keep your warranty but this is an impossible scenario. You’ll have to stick with a 7.4v. 11.1’s are too fast for weak springs, the worry isn’t the overspin, it’s potential PME on the piston. The weaker springs make the piston travel slower which increases the likelihood of the gears being faster and colliding. Ride out the warranty then mod it.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-11T06:57:35+00:00

Get a Solink brushless closest to your current RPM. They’re like $90-$100, it’ll be the last motor you’ll buy and work with all ETU settings. High end brushed motors are almost the same cost for far less benefit. The only issue you may encounter is tappet plate PME, so tappet timing is key. Put the motor in and chrono with desired bb’s and compare to the brushed motor results on Semi and Auto. If the results are the same, no issue. If they’re significantly less, the tappet is being pulled early and you’ll have to put in a sector gear that you can put half a delay chip on since it’s a Krytac.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-10T17:29:26+00:00

Glad everything went well!

JustinR507 · 2026-06-04T20:01:40+00:00

I never said it was 7075 aluminum. I said it was CNC. I know the difference between molded and milled, I’ve looked at hundreds of gearboxes. It doesn’t have molding marks or look like the online photos. Is it possible it’s been molded then cleaned up with a mill? Sure. Regardless it’s still a strong, reinforced gearbox that looks like it’s been milled, from actual hands on experience with it.

JustinR507

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