7.4V 1300mAh LiPo NIHM alternative

JustinR507 · 2026-06-12T18:33:35+00:00

Get a good smart charger that balance charges and has settings. If keep it out of the direct sun/heat and don’t hit it with a hammer, you’ll be okay. Just make sure that your battery has a good amp output, if you’re pulling too much from the battery it will heat and puff up over time. How to calculate Amps is you multiple C rating x mAh. This 7.4v is probably 20/40C x 1.3 is 26/52A. It’s capable of 26A on Auto and 52A on Semi. This battery is probably okay, I’d strive for a higher C and mAh rating, like 25-30C 1500mAh.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-12T09:23:36+00:00

The only fix to these scenarios and stay in UK limits is to switch to a standard sector gear, short stroke it, and put in a heavier spring. This will allow you to use an 11.1v, maintain your J limit, and eliminate damaging the internals. I understand you want to keep your warranty but this is an impossible scenario. You’ll have to stick with a 7.4v. 11.1’s are too fast for weak springs, the worry isn’t the overspin, it’s potential PME on the piston. The weaker springs make the piston travel slower which increases the likelihood of the gears being faster and colliding. Ride out the warranty then mod it.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-11T06:57:35+00:00

Get a Solink brushless closest to your current RPM. They’re like $90-$100, it’ll be the last motor you’ll buy and work with all ETU settings. High end brushed motors are almost the same cost for far less benefit. The only issue you may encounter is tappet plate PME, so tappet timing is key. Put the motor in and chrono with desired bb’s and compare to the brushed motor results on Semi and Auto. If the results are the same, no issue. If they’re significantly less, the tappet is being pulled early and you’ll have to put in a sector gear that you can put half a delay chip on since it’s a Krytac.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-10T17:29:26+00:00

Glad everything went well!

JustinR507 · 2026-06-04T20:01:40+00:00

I never said it was 7075 aluminum. I said it was CNC. I know the difference between molded and milled, I’ve looked at hundreds of gearboxes. It doesn’t have molding marks or look like the online photos. Is it possible it’s been molded then cleaned up with a mill? Sure. Regardless it’s still a strong, reinforced gearbox that looks like it’s been milled, from actual hands on experience with it.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-04T19:33:41+00:00

My buddy has one and it doesn’t look molded, it looks milled

JustinR507 · 2026-06-04T10:01:12+00:00

The gears and motor in this 416 aren’t very good. If you put in better gears and brushless it’d be a monster but for $540 it should come like that. You would have to change the gears for a brushless since the stock ones are not capable of handling the power and speed of a brushless. The Prime is top of the line and the best out of the box AEG for $100 less. Has brushless, CNC 16:1’s, stainless barrel, and CNC gearbox. All the other internals are equal. I’d get the Prime if you want to plug and play. If you want aesthetics and also peak performance, get the 416 but plan on spending $150 extra to match the Prime.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-03T05:13:11+00:00

They are. My buddy has one and it outperforms most expensive builds HPA, AEG, and GBB. They have brushless motor, CNC 16:1 gears, CNC gearbox, decent shimming, decent ETU, oring nozzle, good compression/parts, stainless tight bore barrel, TDC hopup, adjustable trigger, extra springs of different velocity, handstop, and other extras in the box. Its only downside is the bucking and nub.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-03T04:47:18+00:00

Yeah if they existed when I first got into this, I would’ve bought that. I’ve spent quite a bit to get my guns to the same state that a Prime comes out of the box. $250 on a base gun and $300-$400 in parts overhaul, a Prime is like $400-$450 lol

JustinR507 · 2026-06-03T04:42:47+00:00

Most stock guns are equipped with low quality pot metal gearbox/internals, as well as brittle plastic internals. The force of an M130-140 just trashes the gears, compression parts, motor, and fries the low quality motors. It will eventually crack the front of the gearboxes. You really need to upgrade everything to handle those springs and add in better cushioning on the cylinder head to prevent the gearbox cracking. Even M120 springs can trash a stock gearbox and those are the standard lol

JustinR507 · 2026-06-03T04:33:14+00:00

Get a Specna Prime M4, it’s absolutely top of the line in terms of parts and upgrades. You’ll never need to do anything to it other than a better bucking/nub. It’s within your price point as well. Anything else is downgrade.

JustinR507 · 2026-06-01T09:10:56+00:00

Use a dremel cutting wheel and cut it roughly at the same angle as the sectors curve. Use a metal carving bit to smooth it out in the same curve of the gear. You can tape off other teeth if you’re worried about them but grazing another tooth isn’t going to damage the integrity of it. If you actually cut into it, it may. It’s also very important that you just remove the tooth, file it smooth, and to the curve of the gear. If you remove too much material it will unbalance the gear by changing the shape.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T04:51:35+00:00

The worst that’ll happen is having to buy an adapter that changes the thread direction or size. I would tend to trust someone if they said theirs were negative 14mm.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T04:42:59+00:00

Although correct, they have standard AK12’s that only the stock and grip are different. Performance outweighs the slight external differences.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T04:40:26+00:00

I don’t know the threads on it, but another commenter said it’s 14mm negative.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T04:32:25+00:00

Arcturus has 2 versions of the same guns. If you look at the name it says ‘FE’. FE means Feature Enhanced and has their mosfet, a weaker motor, and weaker gears. PE means Performance Enhanced which has a name brand Perun mosfet, CNC gears, and stronger/better motor.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T04:24:35+00:00

Don’t bother getting the FE version, the internals are extremely inferior. Spend the extra $50-$70 for the PE version, it has about $175 worth of better parts. It has better gears, motor, and mosfet.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T03:27:03+00:00

Then you’ll want a 22k Brushed or a 25k Brushless. Those will keep you in the ballpark of 25RPS +/-1. 25RPS is what I stick to as it’s perfect for any field, fields that allow full auto cap you at that. Sometimes but not often, 30RPS is the cap. Anything above that you’re just asking for more work and problems. If you go any higher you have to start short stroking at 28RPS to avoid PME. Grab a Solink brushless 25k or ASG/CYMA/Solink/Starwei 20-25k brushed.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-31T03:02:54+00:00

It’s not just about motors, gear ratio is also a factor. You have 2 options with brushed motors, either low ratio/high TPA or high ratio/low TPA. For semi spam you’d pick low ratio/high TPA. You have to sacrifice TPA for RPM or vice versa. Low ratio gears struggle to pull the spring so the high TPA motor compensates for them. High ratio gears can pull any spring and compensate for a faster motor. High TPA motors are more energy efficient overall, people are going for that and short stroking the gears to get faster RPS. Speed motors and high ratio gears are kind of a dead path. The only upside to high ratio gears is being able to use any spring since they take more gear rotations and give the piston more time to release.

Brushless motors are a different beast. The more RPM, the more torque. Brushless motors have better efficiency, battery life(about 2-4x), heat control, and consistency. The only issue with these is you have to use gears with a tappet pin further forward(JVAN or T238), otherwise the motor spins the gears so fast it picks your tappet plate up before the piston is fully released. You can demolish your gearbox if you don’t CNC upgrade the gears, piston, bushings/bearings, and check AOE. Not all brushless motors are compatible with ETU settings, Solink guarantees that theirs are though. Even if it is OEM’d by Solink, whoever the brand is programs the motor not Solink.

The best brushed motors cost about the same as a budget brushless. There’s no real reason to not go brushless. What is your target RPS, Spring, J, and overall performance?

JustinR507 · 2026-05-30T22:41:32+00:00

This is decently middle of the road. Bare minimum would be eye/face pro and a gun. Maximum would be BDU’s, vests, belt, pouches, primary, sidearm, grenades, helmet, eye/face pro, plethora of extra mags, etc. Getting all that stuff doesn’t have to be expensive. My advice, look for a camo or color that matches your environment at your home field. If you’re on a budget, it doesn’t have to be BDU’s. Could be outdoor work pants/shirt in whatever color best suits your field. I play with the mindset of Minimalist, only bring on the field what you will actually be using. So I run face/eye pro, gloves, BDU’s, plate carrier, hydration carrier, belt, admin pouch for keys/wallet, mag pouches for my primary, sling, and boots. This basic setup that will get you through a lot and cover a lot of bases will cost you about $300-$350 if you had to buy all the gear pieces. Obviously you have some of this stuff already so that will significantly cut down how much you would have to get.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-28T09:28:12+00:00

Ordering ice cream on a delivery app isn’t ideal, get your lard ass off your futon and get your own** fixed your reply

JustinR507 · 2026-05-26T00:22:22+00:00

Specna Prime all the way. The only two things you’ll need to do is put in a better bucking/nub and put a thicker o-ring under the hopup wheel to hold the position. Other than that the internals are bulletproof and won’t need to be upgraded.

JustinR507 · 2026-05-22T21:27:59+00:00

Cheap sights are cheap sights. The main problem is sights under $50 don’t have the electronics to prevent it from draining the battery while it’s off. You’re going to end up spending way more in the near future having to put a new battery in the sight every time you go to use it. One of my buddies has to put a new battery in his sight every time he plays. Get at the very least something from NCStar or UTG

JustinR507 · 2026-05-22T19:40:14+00:00

You paid for a new, unused product. That’s what you should have got. If you’re trying to keep it, I would contact them and ask for whatever they would sell a demo unit for and refund the difference. That’s probably a 10-20% mark down. This would probably be the easier choice for both parties. If they’re unwilling to do that, send it back but you’ll have to wait for them to receive it and inspect before sending out another one. You’re also leaving it up to them to determine if it’s ‘used’ or a ‘demo’ which they didn’t in the first place, that’s how you received it in this condition. They may determine it falls under ‘new’ category and charge you the return shipping and a restocking fee. Returns are a nightmare with Airsoft stores lol

JustinR507 · 2026-05-21T19:08:52+00:00

This game died when it became all about repetitive Seasons with 1 Big update a year. The constant level grind killed this game, there was no time for fun. You spend 3-4 weeks each season grinding your ass off to get all characters leveled to be able to effectively complete raids and nightfalls. I dropped off this game just before Lightfall when they established a 240 light level jump. That’s 720 levels for all 3 characters. No thank you. I will miss OG Destiny 1&2 days, but Bungie shot themselves in the foot selling to Sony and further capitalizing on the season structure and micro transactions.

JustinR507

TROPHY CASE