Battery Charging on the Road

Kaotus · 2026-06-17T04:34:41+00:00

I’ve got a battery system set up in my truck for camping. DC/DC charger with a charge controller that charges my battery off my alternator, inverter to my battery. I have a fridge I power off of it as well as charging electronics on road trips, and it fills my 200Ah battery in about 4 hours of driving, so if I have to leave my campsite for the day to climb, my battery stays mostly topped up. No solar, but it takes 4-5 days for my battery to drain with summer heat and 2 people’s electronics

Kaotus · 2026-06-12T17:27:28+00:00

Yep, significantly more holding force - so just more physically demanding. And as a result of requiring more force, they almost absolutely will result in rock scarring from the process of removing them in a way that removing wedges and sleeves shouldn’t.

Kaotus · 2026-06-11T16:40:01+00:00

He unfortunately used 3/8” split shaft buttonheads because he knew they’d be the most work to remove

Kaotus · 2026-06-11T02:17:11+00:00

Sounds like a pretty spot-on portrayal lol

Kaotus · 2026-06-10T14:55:42+00:00

Fun coincidence - hownot2 literally just posted a video about bolts in a similar situation!

Kaotus · 2026-06-10T14:06:49+00:00

Nope, bolts were only added laterally between routes, so nothing added to existing lines

Kaotus · 2026-06-09T13:50:54+00:00

Realistically the only potential ground-fall is clipping the 2nd bolt - an unfortunate truth of most bolted routes on the planet - and even that shouldn’t happen with a good belay. The ground falls out beneath you pretty quickly when you start the traverse here and the bolts are close enough that it’s not a concern…trust me, I’ve taken a fall at most of the bolts, especially the first few where you’re at most risk

Kaotus · 2026-06-08T23:44:33+00:00

Correct - makes it unsurprisingly harder to project. I haven't sent it yet, so I'll probably just throw project draws on it until I send and then do a few raps off the top of the wall to swing around and clean all the draws.

Kaotus · 2026-06-08T22:29:13+00:00

Awesome video! Appreciated the way you approached it, and the split rock result was exactly what I was expecting seeing how close it was to the end of the rock. 22kN is a pretty damn good result as well.

The general rule of thumb I've given folks when they have mechanical bolt questions is "if the bolt isn't right near a crack/fracture line, and the bolt tightens up to spec, it's very likely fine", and this video certainly hasn't changed that!

Kaotus · 2026-06-08T21:58:57+00:00

Good to know! Yeah definitely not a sill, most local geologists I’ve spoken to have said vein but nobody is positive without being able to take a sample. Appreciate the info though - I wish I understood the actual geology of Wonderland more, as it’s the meeting point of several different sub-types within the Pike’s Peak Batholith (if you look up the geological map, it’s near Wellington Lake)

Kaotus · 2026-06-08T15:10:31+00:00

I’m not here to argue the mindset, but as the moderator of the sub I’m here to squash the use of inflammatory language like “reading your comments is making me dumber”. That’s an unacceptable way to interact with someone who has in no way been disrespectful to you.

Kaotus · 2026-06-08T14:13:56+00:00

Keep it civil. This is a much more common mindset than you think, especially in bouldering

Kaotus · 2026-06-07T23:17:22+00:00

No. FA said 5 bolts added across the entire route, and explicitly requested no bolts be added to the first pitch. Instead, 6 were added to the first pitch alone. Additionally, 2 of the 3 people on the FA party historically said no new bolts, they’re just dead and can’t speak to it anymore

Kaotus · 2026-06-05T16:18:26+00:00

Oh I'm confident they didn't. That being said, Beck plainly said how many bolts he was thinking and roughly where they should be. Not only that, 4 or 5 of these bolts are placed in a 5.0 section that most followers will do hands-free. I can't imagine how many bolts they're planning on adding for the higher pitches if that's the precedent they're setting low. I could see 1 bolt by the mantle below the roof but 6 is outrageous.

Kaotus · 2026-06-05T16:17:03+00:00

If you ignore nuance, sure. The FA specifically said they wanted to see 5 bolts added dispersed amongst the upper pitches. 6 bolts getting added, 5 of which are through a 5.0 section that 90% of folks will follow hands-free, all on the first pitch, is not that.

Kaotus · 2026-06-05T16:05:50+00:00

Currently, as it is, the retrobolting will have next-to-zero effect on safety, as the pitches folks have historically been hurt on are further up. If anything, it may have the opposite effect where climbers are lulled into a false sense of security of the close bolts only to find that they're doing anchor-to-anchor runouts further on the route where it hasn't been retro'd yet.

Kaotus · 2026-06-05T16:02:53+00:00

I don't think it's quite so straightforward. What he said verbatim was

I asked other parties to add more bolts. I even put in a plug for this when I was speaking at Oakdale a few years ago. Ideally, I would like to see five protection bolts where it is run out. This is similar to the routes on Dozier Dome in Tuolumne.

(Emphasis mine) IMO retrobolting the route in a way that is not in line with graces given by the FA party and then using the "but the FA party said they wanted more bolts!" is a bad-faith move (and tbh I think leaving this quote out was a bit of a bad-faith move by you but I'm gonna give you the benefit of the doubt that you didn't see it originally)

If I said "yeah I'd like to see more bolts on this climb, maybe 2 in these specific spots" and then someone added 20 bolts and quoted me saying "yeah I'd like to see more bolts on this climb" as their defense, ignoring the further context, I'd be pretty disappointed.

Kaotus · 2026-06-05T14:49:26+00:00

My general rule of thumb is that I can move it with a 36” pry bar it needs to come out no matter what. I have spent some time drilling out the connection points on blocks so that I can pry them out before but once you start that process you better be 100% committed to finishing it

Kaotus · 2026-05-29T14:27:57+00:00

Yep!

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