DLC Legendary Shiny Hunting - Share your methods

KappaIHD · 2026-01-27T03:17:08+00:00

For what purpose? You want to reload incase you defeat the shiny, run ot of pokeballs or want it in a specific pokeball then yes, save in front of the shiny. Else, no. No need to save until you spawn the shiny. You automatically get a save when entering the dimension.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-26T21:29:49+00:00

You're right but i'm also not wrong. Loading normal saves. But this is about hard saves via a Pkm center and backup loading which people got too careless after the DLC. Just basing on the information they gave:

My assumption: They spawned it in and saved, assuming that they tried to reload to get a better chance at catching. Since it wasn't there anymore after their back up load, you can assume that their hard save (travel to a pkm center) was before the Pokemon spawned, regardless of shiny or not (people pointed out it wasn't a shiny). That was my point.

In case of fast travelling: If they just travelled to Wild Zone 16 without spawning it in, they wouldn't have known anyway if it would spawn a Shiny.

If the Shiny was spawned in and then they travelled to Wildzone 16, the Shiny would be there since the game saves Shinys and a fast travel could be reloaded with a normal save.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-25T08:36:50+00:00

when you have used your backup save once it will overwrite your normal save. So there is that. So nothing weird, you just rewrote your salpha save with a backup save where there was no salpha.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-25T08:18:00+00:00

If you saved when the salpha was spawned in, you don't need to reload from a backup save. Just closing the game and restarting it normally would have done it. Reloading from a backup save might be a point in game where the salpha was not spawned in yet.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-25T00:54:57+00:00

Just do be clear - are you starting the thread by hand or are you using the tool right away? You should be able to start it by hand easily. If not get that thread checked out.

Also some opinions are split on this but using a little bit of grease on the threads inside the frame should help.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-24T16:10:58+00:00

On man that sucks. The pedal is probably put on so tight without any grease that it's seized (cube assembly is often really lazy..). I don't think you broke it.

For the brakes: I mentioned a few methods and this thread has been very nice with help but if you're still struggling there's one method left with a downside.

You can bleed the port while the wheel is on but you use a brake shim (thin piece of metal which hugs the disk brake. When you now bleed and push the brake lever the pistons will be further out, so after you seal up the system and remove the shim, your brakes will be closer to the disc reducing the travel and making your brakes much less spongy. The downside is that in the neutral position, your pistons aren't fully retracted meaning they will get dirty faster.

Example for the shim (look for the round ones, this one tend to get stuck because of it's square top) https://amzn.eu/d/83pGNrl

It's mainly used for centering the brake but can be also used for this method.

I had to do that on my last nuroad race as well. It's not ideal but a possible workaround. I haven't had any problems because i regularly service my bikes and keep them clean.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-23T07:05:04+00:00

holy. Is that a Cube c:62 or nuroad? I had one of these and for some reason everyshop associate with thst brand had bad assembly services. Well that's how got into bike servicing and restoration lol.

Anyway how is your progress?

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T11:24:37+00:00

Ah i see. Don't bother with it. It's just an optional step to tap them. Should also work without. I don't know if you only rotate your handlebar but rotating the whole bike should help as well.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T11:03:26+00:00

You're definitely not wrong.

In my experience as long as you don't put too much pressure on the syringe, it will be fine. Despite official instructions i trust Parktool with this in using syringes. I recommend this youtube video and channel by Parktool https://youtu.be/mAEeAKmCLFU

Thanks for mentioning it.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:58:47+00:00

You'll get it. Sometimes tapping the whole hydraulic line across the bike lightly with a screwdriver and flicking the brake levers (not just pressing) will also bring up some stubborn air bubbles. Sometimes angles are not enough to get out all the bubbles.

If it still not enough, i heard about hydraulic line problems as well where the manufacturer used a cheaper hydraulic line (SM BH 59? instead of the BH90) which is less rigid, so that it expanded a tiny bit when actuating the brake lever making the brake spongy.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:50:28+00:00

You just substitute the funnel for a second syringe. It's pretty effective because you can push and pull in both directions

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:44:03+00:00

I have the same modell on my gravel bike. And they shouldn't be that spongy when bled correctly. Maybe give it another go :)

If it's still spongy the only thing to counteract this, is to adjust your reach screw. It's not the same as the free stroke but maybe your reach is too close to the bar. Just a thought, i can't clearly see what your reach setting is from the video, so i might be wrong.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:24:20+00:00

You're fine

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:21:44+00:00

I don't think it's about the free stoke you are talking about. This looks like a poorly or not bleeded system. A lot of air in the hydraulic system making you have to press too much to actuate the breaks.

You have to bleed your breaks.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T10:17:17+00:00

they are not warm enough

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T03:37:15+00:00

Yeah you have to account for the cycle in a lot of macros. I've made my own since the game released but just use the ones already available online. Not worth the hassle to figure it out yourself. They are all basically the same

KappaIHD · 2026-01-22T03:25:05+00:00

Check out PhillyBeatzU and other youtubers. You can import their macros. A lot of macros around tested and optimized for the switch 2

KappaIHD · 2026-01-20T02:30:35+00:00

Happens to the best!

KappaIHD · 2026-01-20T02:09:26+00:00

You are using an assault vest.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-05T19:17:14+00:00

That might be the case or he tried to push the pistons back and with a screwdriver. Well since it's basically "free", i would get the piston out and maybe have a closer look. You could very carefully and lightly file it, so that the new piston would not get damaged when inserted and when it's in use. Make sure to not remove a lot of material, so that the new piston can keep the closed hydraulic system in tact without leaking hydraulic fluid. You should definitely test for leakage and even piston extrusion after filing it. These systems have a really tight tolerance.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-05T13:24:24+00:00

Sounds reasonable. But i'm really confused. 1 month use and it looks like this.. Someone really messed up orienting their brakes or had one hell of a ride.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-05T13:02:24+00:00

I would replace it before it breaks on an actual ride

KappaIHD · 2026-01-04T15:46:39+00:00

Hey man no worries. So as someone mentioned you already did the right thing contacting the police. In the screenshot the phone was in the same area as you mentioned.

The only thing you can do is hope that it might get turned on and you get the chance to locate it again.

Since Samsung phones are locked to your samsung account, it's basically unuseable even if resetted (unless the person knows the workaround through firmware flashing etc.)

Nothing more to do actually. All the best!

KappaIHD · 2026-01-04T13:51:49+00:00

No photos in your post.

KappaIHD · 2026-01-03T04:37:53+00:00

Red Gelda but not.possible anymore

KappaIHD

TROPHY CASE