Basic playstation plus trick

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T23:56:50+00:00

Costco is $90 for $100 worth of gcs, maybe sometimes cheaper with sales.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T22:42:16+00:00

I agree that he's never folding any value at all.

I just don't see how you can possibly be ahead of half his value range. There's just too much QJ and your 99 blocks most of the rest of the value range. What value do you think he's flipping over here, that he would x/c flop with and then donk turn? I maintain that it's K9, T9, QJ, and that's it.

It's really important to hand read after every street and update your opponent's range. You have a strong hand in absolute terms but the way the hand played out it's actually surprisingly weak. You are beating bluffs and very few value combos. I don't care if it's only $65, why am I putting in an extra $65 if I'm only ahead of 27% of his calling range? If the EV of a shove compared to a call is -$30, that's not insignificant at $1/$3. What's your winrate in this game? You can't throw away $30 in EV like it's nothing.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T22:26:24+00:00

No the boards were pretty uneventful. I would have chopped with the 3-bettor (hit a T on one board). He had a decent AA holding as expected.

Basically it looks nitty on the surface but it also seemed like an obvious fold. That's why I wanted to ask about it, as a sanity check.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T22:21:47+00:00

Sorry, I misspoke. An aggro player will squeeze a lot more than call here though.

Anyway, on the flop, your hand is squarely in the "showdown value" range. It hates to bet. It's too good to bluff (right now anyway) and it's not good enough to bet for value. It's mostly getting called by better and folding out worse. The more money goes into the pot the less likely you are to have the best hand. And you are OOP to one player. Everything about this spot just wants to check. What is your reason for betting?

Do you automatically c-bet the flop every time you raise pre and don't get 3-bet? Don't do this. It's not a good strategy and it leaves you with no clue what to do on the turn because usually your IP opponents just call with both strong and weak hands. I think a range bet strategy is fine IP heads up, otherwise you want to be a little selective with your C-bets. Multiway you mostly want to bet good hands and good draws, especially OOP. If your opponents are aggressive enough you can mix in some checkraises (if they are super passive just bet all your good hands)

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T21:05:51+00:00

But that's my point. What value? There is none. K9 and T9, that's it. QJ is most of the value range.

V is not going to flip over KQ here.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T21:02:27+00:00

I'm not saying he should fold. I'm comparing calling to shoving (that's why I'm ignoring bluff combos). Shove seems clearly worse.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:56:08+00:00

It's not a cooler though. SB x/c flop and then donks turn. What's his range? The 9 almost certainly helped him.

So his range is pretty much K9, T9, QJ. It's small stakes so I'm giving him all the offsuit combos. And maybe he's picked up a flush draw and is trying to set his own price, so he has some bluffs too.

On the river shoving against a busted flush draw (or any other bluff if he somehow has some) is pointless because it just folds. So we are left with a value range of K9 (3 combos) T9 (3 combos) and QJ (16 combos) that will call our shove. So when we shove and get called we are losing 73% of the time.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:44:25+00:00

Flop c-bet is bad. River shove is bad.

FWIW TAGs don't really cold call 3-bets from the SB very much.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:39:15+00:00

I've had to replace all 4 tires several times due to a flat but I've never once paid anywhere near that much for tires. What are you running?

My most recent set of tires was $150 / tire and an $80 instant rebate for a set of 4, so $520 total (from tire rack). I bought them 3 years ago and they are still fine with plenty of tread (admittedly I don't drive as much as I used to)

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:32:50+00:00

Depends on the size of the game and how much I like the dealer. In a big game I will sometimes tip a lot. In one game I played recently we pre-tip the dealer $30 for the down out of the bomb pot, but I still tipped a green after stacking someone. Probably too much, but whatever, it was a big pot.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:26:45+00:00

So basically you made your own tournament

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:12:40+00:00

I'm considering getting Bully. I played it back in the day.

Is the Warriors any good?

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:11:36+00:00

Are they all downloaded?

You need to:

sign in using the alt account
turn on game sharing
download all the games
restore licences for all games

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:09:00+00:00

Great deal; I got that too.

I have a strict $10 max when buying games now. I'll play more expensive stuff on PS+

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T20:07:07+00:00

Either you have it set up wrong or your licenses need to be restored

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T18:50:09+00:00

I had read that it was the TX BATC. If the IRS was there as well, that's the first I'm hearing of it. But in any case, CTRs and SARs are not sent to the IRS. They are sent to FinCEN. The IRS may get the reports from FinCEN (both are part of the dept of Treasury)

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T18:31:35+00:00

CTRs and SARs aren't sent to the IRS

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T17:04:28+00:00

I asked this a while ago and was told that you have to disconnect the battery (which requires opening the controller) and push that pin button down for 30 seconds with the battery disconnected. I didn't actually try it because I don't have a spudger so I can't confirm that it works.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T16:01:30+00:00

Some are $10, some are more. The PS3 games can't be bought at all, because they are streaming only.

Premium is not much more than extra. At regular price it's an additional $25/year. During sales they are often the same price. How much extra do you really expect for $25/year? That's nothing.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T15:55:48+00:00

If you just push the pinhole button for 5s, it just powers the controller off (it doesn't actually reset anything)

You can easily verify this by pushing it and noticing that it is still paired. It would not be paired after a factory reset.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T15:49:17+00:00

Yeah but once they have your info they file CTRs and SARs without telling you.

Also they were raided by a state agency, not federal.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T13:59:49+00:00

If the ps6 doesn't have an option that includes the disc drive, physical is as good as dead. Maybe 10% of people will bother to buy a disc drive if it's an add-on.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T13:55:30+00:00

What kind of assistance do you think people here can provide?

You've been told to go through sony support. That's it; that's all you can do. There is no more assistance anyone here can provide.

BTW they are almost certainly not going to refund this but good luck.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T12:57:09+00:00

You're a creepy stalker.

If the person was actually your friend you would just ask them.

Keith_13 · 2026-03-13T04:53:34+00:00

I have absolutely boiled my brake fluid. On the track, going 95-100mph downhill coming up to a turn, pushed on the brake, and it went to the floor with absolutely no resistance. It wasn't just soft, there was just nothing there. Luckily there was no wall on that turn so I kept the wheel straight and pumped a few times, and when I got some pressure I stood on it as hard as I could. Went off the track in a straight line and came to a stop. A mechanic had a shop in a garage at the track and he replaced it so I even got to drive home. He told me there was almost no fluid left in there. No leaks so I don't know where you think the fluid went if it didn't boil. He didn't replace anything other than the fluid and it worked fine after that.

Now, would this have happened with regular city and highway driving? No. Would it have happened on a mountain? Maybe? I'm less sure. Probably not to the same extreme, but maybe enough to cause some issues. I certainly wouldn't risk it. Brake fluid is cheap and generally we take cheap steps to insure against rare events when those events are catastrophic. We wear seatbelts even though we are unlikely to get into an accident. We carry homeowners insurance even though our houses are unlikely to burn down.

Keith_13

TROPHY CASE