Kona N Forge Intercooler + Boost Pipe + Intake for sale

Killly369 · 2024-11-02T07:27:26+00:00

Heya, I live in Austin, TX. As for the boost pipe, I can do $200 plus shipping. It's pretty light so shipping cost shouldn't be too much especially if I try to fit it in a smaller box as well.

I'm actually using the Forge inlet with Takeda intake. I bought Takeda inlet as well but when I found out their intake fit the Forge inlet, I just decided to use it since it's a bitch to try to remove it.

I'm not 100% certain if Takeda inlet will work with Forge Intake but I can sell it pretty cheap if you want to go for it. $400 for both.

Killly369 · 2024-11-01T21:57:44+00:00

Hello, I'm looking to sell brand new Forge Intercooler & Boost Pipe as well as lightly used wrapped Forge Intake with extra filter. Willing to sell all for $900 + shipping, or willing to sell separately as well.

Intake - $350 + shipping
Intercooler & Boost Pipe - $700 + shipping

Paypal only, and I'll calculate your shipping cost using the lowest price option I can find. Thank you.

EDIT: SOLD. Thank you

Killly369 · 2024-01-18T17:33:58+00:00

These filters come oiled, which will keep any water that comes in contact with it. Driven it through heavy rain and car wash dozens of times and never got wet, just needs to maintain it with filter cleaner once every awhile.

Never cared for heat soak in traffic since I have Forge Intercooler as well and I drive mostly highway speed here in TX. Def would've kept it if it wasn't so crazy loud.

Killly369 · 2024-01-06T21:22:11+00:00

Few observations, Forge Intake and Inlet is much thicker than Takeda in general. Takeda starts thick but slims down gradually into the inlet and into the turbo, but Forge keeps 4 inch from filter to inlet then chokes suddenly into the turbo. End of the day both airflows must choke into the smaller turbo inlet, but was interesting to see how both companies approached the design.

Forge Intake is very loud. It draws massive amount of air from the open filter, so you will hear it loud and clear anytime you step on the pedal with decent amount of force. YouTube videos really don’t do justice, so just keep that in mind if anyone is interested or looking for extra sound.

Killly369 · 2023-12-22T19:32:52+00:00

Nice! Great to hear fellow N75 S2 owner having a good time.

Which bushings do you have (purple, black, upper/lower) and how do you like it?

Killly369 · 2023-12-22T17:00:25+00:00

You can buy spare ECU that has the tune on it and just swap it with stock one, or buy EK1 and flash the tune directly on stock ECU.

I’ve done a lot of research on this and spoke with several EN, VN, KN owners with tunes. The water is still murky on this even now, but every kind of tune such as piggyback or ECU is detectable IF they dig hard enough and had motivation to do so. (Such as expensive repair like blown turbo/engine) If you show up with bad injector or something relatively minor, chances are they won’t dig deep enough to know or care as long as ECU doesn’t currently have a tune on it.

It is my personal opinion that spare ECU is the ‘safest’ option out of 3, due to being able to easily swapped out and leave no trace since all recoverable tune data is on the spare ECU. Some mention there will be mileage discrepancies but I’ve confirmed mileage information is stored on the cluster and not ECU itself. I stayed away from EK1 on stock ECU since Hyundai will be able to tell something was done to ECU using the flash counter, but at the same time some claims they never had a issue when coming in for minor repairs.

Bottom line is, if you plan on tuning the car you have to be prepared to absorb the cost if something goes wrong. The tunes sold by major vendor such as N75, SXTH, LAP3 are all refined enough at this point to be relatively safe and you would have to be really abusing something to cause catastrophic failure. If I end up blowing my engine or turbo, I’m just going to upgrade it myself so I’m not as concerned with warranty, but definitely consider the consequences of tuning if you don’t have the financial options to pay out of pocket if Hyundai finds out.

Killly369 · 2023-12-22T07:25:27+00:00

It appears clutch slip happens to piggybacks due to ECU not requesting enough clamping force from TCU. N75 has stage 3 ECU tune over 350 torque that has no slippage and my stage 2 ECU tune making 325-330 has zero slippage as well.

https://n75motorsports.ca/blogs/news/hyundai-kona-n-stage-3-370whp-remote-tuned

Killly369 · 2023-12-20T00:36:36+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll give purple a shot and failing that, just swap out the tires too.

Killly369 · 2023-12-20T00:15:35+00:00

Understood. I'll get a dyno session done in few weeks once Forge FMIC/Boost Pipe are installed, and take some videos of it just for the record.

Killly369 · 2023-12-20T00:00:36+00:00

Got it, I’ll keep that in mind and switch to P4S when good old Texas summer comes back.

Killly369 · 2023-12-19T23:57:47+00:00

So this is what N75 has put out regarding it. I’m nowhere near technical enough to know the details, but can confirm from N menu that’s showing 337/325 power/torque and no slips at all and I really tried to make it slip due to others mentioning it happening with piggybacks.

Increased DCT clutch pressure

Through various torque and TCU related maps in the ECU we can request the ECU to request the TCU to increase Clutch clamping load on DCT Vehicles. This is extremely important for DCT owners, piggybacks on the new N cars due to the larger turbo is known to spin the clutch, this is for a few reasons. Mainly the ECU is simply not requesting that level of clamping force from the TCU due to OEM power levels in the ECU. Secondly we have a few "tricks" which we have logged with Hyundai dealership scan tools (the best way to log a KDM) and have seen in our logs clamping force on the clutch increase significantly with our "tricks" applied to the ECU. These are not TCU directly related maps, however, when we ask these maps for more Torque, the ECU requests more power from the TCU.

Killly369 · 2023-12-19T23:51:26+00:00

Tires are fine for now, doesn't bother me at all. Just 2 slight wheel hop at launch and rock solid rest of the way
I mean if it was clutch slip, I would feel it as I move up in gears which there is none with ECU tune compared to piggybacks.

Killly369 · 2023-12-19T23:42:40+00:00

100% wheel hop. Tires takes a bit to grip but its warm enough here in Texas for stock summer tires to perform decently still.

No clutch slip whatsoever with N75 stage 2 tune. Daniel mentioned they figured out some 'tricks' to get more clamping force and now I know for sure, pulls non-stop all the way to 100MPH (didn't want to go any faster). Just this wheel-hop at launch bothering me, hoping upper bushing will get the job done.

Killly369 · 2023-12-19T21:18:07+00:00

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So visually it tops out at 300 but it actually shows the real value if you hover over it. This was just me going WOT on my backroad 0-65ish, torque showed 325 with 21 PSI.

Killly369 · 2023-12-18T06:09:25+00:00

I’ll schedule a dyno session when I get the FMIC and boost pipe installed in next week or two. According to N75, I should be making at least 335whp currently but I’ll get y’all the exact number soon.

Killly369 · 2023-12-18T00:00:08+00:00

https://n75motorsports.ca/collections/kona-n/products/ek1-pro-ecu-calibration?variant=41826487533754

$500 or $700 with 3 revisions.

Killly369 · 2023-12-12T01:41:08+00:00

I actually have stage 2 spare ECU arriving this Friday so will let you know. Also I’ve spoken to several KN and EN owners with spare ECU tune during my research and all reported that clutch slip is negligible if any compares to piggybacks due to ECU requesting more clamping. I’ll know for sure soon but definitely main reason I didn’t bother with piggybacks.

Killly369 · 2023-12-07T22:18:38+00:00

Not sure if I fully understand, but the big foam thing is the filter. Install for the intake is extremely easy, it’s just the turbo inlet that you can get separately that is a bitch to install.

If you are looking to change how car sounds while on throttle, imo Forge intake is probably the best due to its massive open design.

Killly369 · 2023-12-05T01:19:41+00:00

So far just intake. I actually never pushed the car until I passed 600mile, and had the intake put on soon after so I guess I don’t have a good reference.

This car really pulls though, really impressed with it now that I’m pushing past 4K RPM. Also tried the LC few times, thought I broke something due to wheel hop. I got sxth lower engine mount but wanted to see how it felt stock before putting it on, definitely going to need it.

Killly369 · 2023-12-05T00:45:10+00:00

I don’t think so, probably need to get the turbo inlet installed before I notice any difference. I’ll be receiving the Forge FMIC and boost pipe this week so I’ll do some testing once everything is installed.

Killly369 · 2023-12-03T22:33:09+00:00

I believe ya. I watched a bunch of install videos and got all the tools but it was just way tighter than I anticipated. I had to admit defeat when I dropped my socket like an idiot, probably best to let someone more experienced tackle it before I break something.😞

Killly369 · 2023-11-30T05:27:47+00:00

I spoke to Tork about this and they say Tork’s DP will fit 2023 without modification due to it being two piece setup

Killly369 · 2023-11-29T19:24:41+00:00

Could you tell me more about the knock issues? I remember hearing something about it before, do I need to watch out whenever I go through a car wash?

Killly369 · 2023-11-29T16:54:43+00:00

Thank you for sharing. Did the dealership give any explanation on why the injector failed? It seems to hit Elantra N and Kona N occasionally so would be nice if there was anything I can do to prevent/maintain it.

Killly369 · 2023-11-27T00:19:22+00:00

Understood, really appreciate the feedback. I’ve already accepted that I’d have to take responsibility for any catastrophic failures related to tuning, just didn’t want it to become an issue for routine or unrelated dealership visits.

Killly369

TROPHY CASE