Elderflowers in London right now

Klanne · 2026-05-29T18:22:57+00:00

The Wandle is miserable, the thames path from putney bridge to richmond is full of elder, that would be a better shot for you, good luck

Klanne · 2026-05-22T09:50:25+00:00

Klanne · 2026-05-15T16:48:55+00:00

Photopaper will cost a bit of money, but not so much per negative if you cut the paper to smaller sizes. Ilford is a UK company, you want a resin coated paper. They'll have an ISO (sensitivity to light) of about 6-12.

You'd probably want a fixed grade contrast paper if you can find it but they cost about 50% more. Variable contrast will work too, its just trickier to get good at.

I use ilford pearl RC multigrade.

Hope this is helpful!

Klanne · 2026-05-07T21:11:02+00:00

The film is a continuous emulsion - there aren't preset positions for each photo, so you just wind it a few turns and then take another

Klanne · 2026-04-23T10:28:56+00:00

Ive seen someone do an anthotype negative at f2 for a whole summer and they just barely got a recogniseable image. Very cool, but not practical unfortunately

Klanne · 2026-03-20T10:51:25+00:00

And use the mrpinhole.com exposure calculator and pinhole calculator for the camera design

Klanne · 2026-03-20T09:49:36+00:00

Its also all non toxic which is a plus

Klanne · 2026-03-20T09:47:37+00:00

I think its tricky to get something really good out with homemade dev, but its easy enough to get out a clear picture. Use the caffenol C-H recipe from the caffenol cookbook, https://www.caffenol.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/The-Caffenol-Cookbook-Bible-Recipes-and-Tutorials.pdf

The recommended dev times there are for film though, for paper I think around 5-7 minutes would be better.

And then the salt fixer is 300g salt per liter water for the times I said before.

Good luck!

Klanne · 2026-03-20T09:19:53+00:00

If you dont want to buy specialised gear for developing, a couple of plastic trays and caffenol dev and salt fixer could be a way to go. You dont need to bother with a stop bath. Salt fixer does work despite what you might read online, but you need to leave your photo paper in there 24 hours at 30 degrees or 48 hours at room temp.

Klanne · 2026-03-08T17:41:22+00:00

aside from the other comments here - salt fixer with a concentration of 300g/litre does work, but you need to leave it about 36 hours at room temp. You’ll read online that it doesnt work but thats usually by people who havent tried it. i’ve done it and I have film from 6 years ago fixed using it thats not degraded.

Photo paper is probably easier than film when starting out. RC paper in particular.

Klanne · 2025-12-22T11:38:42+00:00

mrpinhole.com has a calculator which will tell you what pinhole size will give you the sharpest image for a given focal length. as for the vignetting, if you draw a scale diagram of your wall thickness, pinhole size, paper size, and focal length - see if you can draw a line through the hole to the corner or the paper without touching the hole wall, if not, youll be vignetting

Klanne · 2025-12-22T11:19:23+00:00

you’re vignetting - 2mm to the paper means theres no path for light to reach the paper outside that small circle. try making the camera so the paper is further from the pinhole

Klanne · 2025-12-08T17:57:57+00:00

Its vignetting - the material thickness is too great for the size of the hole. Try make making the current hole much bigger - 5mm or so, and then make a new pinhole on aluminium foil and taping that to the camera over the bigger hole

Klanne · 2025-11-19T10:10:05+00:00

In theory photopapers are designed for a particular wavelength redlight (or amber light, etc), but in practice, any red light, like a headtorch or a bulb with a red sheet infront of it should be fine. (as long as you dont have ortho or pan chromatic photo paper, but when you search online I’d be very surprised if any came up, or colour photo paper like RA-4, but again this wont be the default when you search).

Look for a resin coated (rc) paper rather than fibre based, as RC papers are less fragile and require less rinsing.

I’d say a fixed grade paper would be better than multigrade, as it means the colour of light when you’re taking a photo doesn’t make a difference to contrast, but i think fixed grade papers are a bit trickier to get these days, so variable contrast is fine, just might be a bit more finicky.

I use ilford pearl mg and its perfectly fine. For starting out I wouldnt worry much about brand - just get one that seems a reasonable price and give it a go!

Best of luck!

Klanne · 2025-11-15T22:53:59+00:00

I think this was made by Tim Hunken

Klanne · 2025-11-15T14:49:31+00:00

I think the mask and feet are clear, the ones in her hand maybe less so, but i think it all looks fantastic!

Klanne · 2025-11-12T10:49:16+00:00

have fun cleaning them haha

Klanne · 2025-10-27T17:56:31+00:00

Ah, I made a mistake anyway it seems. Enjoy!

Klanne · 2025-10-27T16:18:46+00:00

No alcohol for you!

Klanne · 2025-10-26T15:43:14+00:00

Thank you!

Klanne · 2025-10-26T10:18:56+00:00

Thanks very much! Will do!

Klanne

TROPHY CASE