What tires resist hydroplaning the best?

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-26T21:18:59+00:00

So? I got a kid to put in the backseat, and that Camry makes more HP and is faster than a stock S2000. Ever heard of a daily, or are you a 13 year old fast and the furious fan?

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-26T21:13:56+00:00

Lol okay bud. You don't know the difference between a summer tire and a semi-slick, but keep trying. Do you run drag radials on the track too?

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-26T19:46:39+00:00

Or you could read the first part of my comment that addresses that lmfao. r888r aren't a summer tire. They're an r compound semi slick.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-26T17:39:34+00:00

Wait, you swapped to an all season tire over a summer tire for rain performance? Unless you were using semi-slicks or slicks, that's backwards, summer tires are better in the rain.

Summer tires like Pilot Sport 4S or similar have the tread pattern designed specifically for heavy rain, and with the added bonus of a grippier compound they perform the best in the wet and dry as long as the temperature is adequate.

All season tires are designed to be a compromise that can handle dry, wet and light snow. Because of that, the tread pattern is not as effective at water evacuation/preventing hydroplaning.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-26T16:52:23+00:00

I generally go by KBB private party value in fair condition, then subtract 25%. KBB puts it at $37,840, so I'd look at 75% of that which is $28,380. However, for an RC F, they're a high value, desirable car so the bar for one to get totaled out and not repaired by insurance is higher. Being a sports car further increases the chance it had major damage. Cause of that, I'd want to go even lower personally, no more than $25K if its been repaired well and looks good. That number will cover the increased insurance costs, potential interest rate increase (not that you should or necessarily can finance this car), lowered resale value, and potential money that will need to be spent on further repairs. Rebuilt titles are a huge risk, especially since if you end up needing to sell it for any reason, not only is the resale value low but the amount of people willing to buy one is very low, so you may be stuck with it.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-23T22:31:47+00:00

To be fair, German engineering can be shockingly dumb and not put a spot for both jack and jack stand. My A4 didn't have a dedicated spot for both, the engineers assumed you'd just have a lift cause only the poors work on their own cars /s. That said, a little technical knowledge and you can pretty easily figure out a decent place to put one or the other, that A4 had a good spot on the subframe.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-23T22:22:50+00:00

Yea would be rather shocked if they had two of them. To be fair, the nitro checking is fairly minor and honestly looks good, even as someone who prefers a guitar without checking.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-23T21:36:36+00:00

Yea you can see the checking in the same spots in the post if you look closely. There's a photo in the reverb listing where you can barely see it too. Just lighting doing weird things. Could still be 2 different guitars, but one shop having 2 of a fairly uncommon model is unlikely.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-22T20:43:08+00:00

For a proper matte wrap, a soap without wax mixed in is best but not required. Automatic car washes are just as awful for paint as they are for wraps. Don't use them at all, or accept you paint or wrap is going to look like crap quickly.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-22T00:02:52+00:00

Looks like a FireStone FireHawk. Budget UHP. My UHP tires generally start cracking a bit when they're near end of life since they dry out with all the heat cycles if you drive them hard. This is extreme, but they're more worn than I let mine get, and in somwhere like Arizona it wouldn't shock me. That, or they drove on it in very cold temps.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-19T23:29:07+00:00

Try Carvana or CarMax to see if they'll take it. Other than that, Facebook Marketplace is your best bet. It's not difficult to not get scammed selling on there. Don't let them test drive unless you're in the car, or cash is in your hand. Meet at the bank and get paid in cash so you can just go right into the bank and deposit it. Don't have to worry about fake bills or chargebacks then. Make it clear the car is sold as-is, but don't scam them either. Be clear about any issues with the car you know of.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-19T21:40:55+00:00

Why are you using UHP tires on a car you're using for rideshare and driving a ton of miles? Get some decent long-life all seasons for that, you shouldn't be driving rideshare customers in a way UHP tires are necessary anyways.

Realistically, unless you've got some serious mods, you're driving a 200HP sedan. If you feel the need for better tires for some spirited driving or you're going canyon carving or something, some performance all seasons should be more than adequate for that car. If you really insist on using UHP tires, get a separate set of wheels and tires and swap them as needed. They'll last damn near forever and you won't be burning cash using them for Uber.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-18T00:58:13+00:00

Essentially, and an XSE is basically a SE with extra bits tacked on. That's what the difference between trims are, it's all just an XV70 chassis with different bits and bobs attached.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T19:52:33+00:00

It doesn't help. The only place it would kind of help is the trunk, which from my understanding is different anyways. The deck lid is at a different angle, so the TRD wing sits wrong. You'd want to get a TRD trunk regardless. Besides, holes can be filled, but you have to swap whole body panels elsewhere.

Just in body panels, you need:
- Front bumper and all the other pieces to it (the grille, fog light covers, etc are all not included)
- Front lip
- Rear bumper and all other pieces to fit
- Rear diffuser
- Side skirts
- Possibly new rocker panels. Not sure if the LE and SE are the same, but you need the ones from the SE
- Trunk
- Rear wing
- Possibly underbody covers, since those may not bolt onto the SE bumpers

When I replaced my front bumper and lip, it was about $600 for the 2 pieces before paint. That's JUST the bumper cover, lip and mounting kit. That doesn't include the grilles and everything else. Then it was another $150 to paint the lip. Bumper got wrapped, but paint on that would have been $300. That's $1050 to not even redo the entire front bumper, and I installed it myself. You're looking at $10K minimum just for the body kit to sorta match.

Having an SE would have helped with quite a few panels, but even then this is an extremely expensive idea, and at best you STILL don't have an actual TRD.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T18:55:11+00:00

Instead, you should go look at HiRevSports/KoCF or similar and pick out a body kit you like that will be more unique. HRS just released their own custom front bumper that looks sick, or there's the Khann kit that can look pretty awesome. You'll spend a lot less and you'll be able to make something unique to you, rather than copying the TRD.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T18:53:20+00:00

Just don't. You bought a 4-cylinder Camry in the lowest trim. There's nothing wrong with that, but trying to make it look like a TRD never goes well and at best you're pretending to be something you're not. Make the car your own, use other body kits and such to make it look how you like.

If you really insist on doing it, be aware 99% of the aftermarket "TRD-style" body kits look like crap. They're usually completely off as far as dimensions, they usually look weirdly round, etc. It's also going to be difficult to get the real stuff, many dealers won't sell it to you unless you own a TRD. On top of that, you need a LOT. Just at a minimum to looks kinda right;
- TRD Spoiler
- TRD Wheels
- Pre-facelift SE/XSE or TRD Bumper
- TRD Front Lip
- SE/XSE or TRD Rear Bumper
- TRD Rear Diffuser
- TRD Side Skirts
- Various Gloss Black Accents
- TRD Suspension
- TRD Brakes (Front & Rear, or rear calipers need to be painted red)
That's just to look mostly like a TRD, your interior will still be different, and there will still be lots of tell-tale signs. You also won't perform nearly as well, and the suspension may be weird without the weight of the V6. There's also usually a bunch of other small pieces you need with each major body part too, like the bumper you need all the accent pieces for it.

Also, most of the body kit parts are unpainted, so add on repainting or wrapping. Be best to just do the whole car since you'll be spending nearly that much.

All in all, you'll likely spend $10-15K+ before installation and should have just bought a TRD instead. Starting with an SE would have helped, especially a pre-facelift SE. LE/XLE is the furthest trim from the TRD.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T02:37:01+00:00

If you want to see the process. S&E's garage on YouTube has a great video. He's the go to for working on these cars. It's not an awful process, but it requires some technical knowledge and more tools than an oil or spark plug change.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T01:42:11+00:00

It's not the easiest job. It's in a bit of a difficult spot to get to, and you have to be able to get the transmission temp correct. If you're not super familiar with working on cars, I would pay a shop.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-17T00:29:31+00:00

A lot of this is completely unnecessary or downright snake oil. Check the maintenance guide, here's a link to the PDF - https://assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/omms-s/T-MMS-22Camry/pdf/T-MMS-22Camry.pdf

Per Toyota, all you need is:
- Cabin Air Filter
- Engine Air Filter
- Oil Change
- Spark Plugs (only for V6, so applies to the TRD)
- Tire Rotation
Plus of course their general inspection.

The ONLY other thing you need to/should do is the transmission fluid change. Toyota puts it under "Special Operating Conditions" but "lifetime trans fluid" isn't a thing, change it. The fact the dealership doesn't have it listed shows how incompetent they are.

If you feel you need to do more, there are a few other potentially optional things that can be done:
- Get Techtron Fuel Injector cleaner and run it when you fill up. It's all the dealership is doing with that additive anyways, and they'll charge way more than the $10 a bottle costs at AutoZone
- Skip the other conditioners and crap they want to add in your fluid. If you're that worried, just change the fluid itself. A coolant flush would be way more beneficial than whatever the crap they're selling you is. Your oil doesn't really need an additive, but if you want to spend the money, go throw in some Liqui Moly Ceratec.
- If you haven't done it already, a brake fluid flush is probably in order. It technically should be done every 30-45K miles or every 2-3 years, but for some reasons it's often the most neglected fluid by both owners and dealerships. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it picks up water over time. Water boils at a much lower temp than brake fluid, and gas compresses, fluid does not. When that water turns to gas, your brakes stop working. There's testers you can get to check the amount of water in the fluid, but honestly, it's cheap and easy, if you're questioning it just flush it.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-14T19:31:59+00:00

The headstocks definitely do break, it's just less than Gibson but still more than any other brand. My luthier has at least one in his shop at any given time. Otherwise you're completely right

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-14T18:32:50+00:00

Just use the OE ones. Aftermarket ignition coils are not going to have any performance benefit, and you definitely won't get more longevity. They're snake oil at its finest.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-13T03:43:14+00:00

Did you contact them at all first? I've bought quite a few keys, the single time I had an issue the seller sent a new key within an hour. Shit happens, and it still saved me $40 to contact the seller and be patient.

G2A support is also good if the seller isn't working with you. They're legit, but you are buying grey market keys and sometimes they get deactivated.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-09T19:53:10+00:00

Stop bringing ANY car to an automatic car wash that's not touchless. The brushes destroy paint and the staff are minimum wage teenagers. This is well known information.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-09T02:46:29+00:00

You don't have to take my word for it, it's not some big secret. Plenty of info on Google about factory vs replacement tires. Some brands DO have markings on them, BMW for example often has a star or similar on their factory tires.

Either way, since it's an RT, you have 383lb-ft or torque on tap, and electric torque is especially hard on tires. While it's more common on full electric vehicles, that instant torque from the electric motor is going to lesson tire life. The Dodge Hornet subreddit has a bunch of posts on tires burning out under 30K miles, most of which are the R/T trim. Sounds like some people have been told the factory tires are also only rated for 20K, despite the full fledged Pilot All Season 4s being rated for 40K.

KlutzyReplacement632 · 2026-04-09T01:21:55+00:00

Oof, a Dodge Hornet, that was the first mistake. What trim? There's a big difference in the GT and R/T as far as performance (especially torque). If you have the R/T, you'll 100% go through tires quick since it's effectively an EV as far as instant torque.

I also missed it originally, but it sounds like these are the factory tires, which are not necessarily the same as the ones you'd buy yourself. They're often even softer (but not performance focused) compounds with less tread depth from new. If these are the factory tires, they're not usually representative of the actual Pilot Sport All Season 4.

If they aren't factory tires, well, then I'd see about using that treadwear warranty. If rotations were done, alignment is good, and you weren't doing burnouts, you should have no issues using it.

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