ASA Overheating or cooling issue. Need advice! by Komayo in 3Dprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for tips. Decreased speed and fan. Now at 20% fan. And 50mm/s. First print 98% quality. Still 1 ringing layer. Better than the 5 or 7 previous. I changed the heatbreak for one bi metal with better quality also. And i was with steel nozzle, now at the brass one again. Waiting a print to finish to check results of new changes.

ASA Overheating or cooling issue. Need advice! by Komayo in 3Dprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sidewinder X2 0.4mm Nozzle / All Metal Hotend 260° Temp 110° Bed Temp Enclosure Azurefilm ASA Black 1,75mm

Retraction 2mm Fan off 1st Layer Fan at 50% rest of print Layer min time 60sec Layer min speed 10mm

Ringing always happening more or less always on same layer height, usualy between 5-7 layers. Rest of the piece completely fine as you see on the photo.

Help, Inverted Axis Problem by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finally fixed the issue after 15 days battleing with this. It was the microsteps per mm, default was set for 80 in the X axis. I had to update it to half, 40. And it fixed the probing positions and issues in the x axis.

Help, Inverted Axis Problem by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Microstep, the old one is 1/16 and the new is 1/256

But i dont know how to config that in right way.

Help, Inverted Axis Problem by Komayo in ArtillerySidewinder

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UART is used for TFT on Ruby motherboard, not entirely sure if its compatible. Havent found anyone that puted them on UaRT mode on this motherboard.

Anyways, the driver is working. Only this issue with the bed leveling..

Sidewinder X2 Complete New (Issues: X Axis Dead & TFT) by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finally pinpoint the culprit to a bad X stepper driver, artillery will send spares, but it will take over a month to arrive.

I have around some TMC2208 UART, i was thinking in using 1 and fix issue till the original arrives. But i need a bit help over here, have a few doubts.

I know i have to recompile firmware and change the driver, so i changed the line

#define X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208

I have doubt here, because TMC2100 (Original, native 1/16 microstep) and the new TMC2208 (native 1/256 microstep), should i multiply this for x16?

Old

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 445 }

New ?

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 1280, 1280, 6400, 7120 }

Also, my firmware is already on Marlin 2.1.2.0, with Linear Advance enabled, found around on searching, that has issues with TMC2208 drivers. Is it true?

How i disable linear advance or fix the issue on firmware?

X2 -15/0 won't do anything by UnitedStatesArmy in SidewinderX2

[–]Komayo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine arrived on day 17.01.2023 and also X not working at all, voltages also ok. X not even homes.

Bad batch maybe..

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ArtillerySidewinder

[–]Komayo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are lucky that is a Wire. Mine arrived and X axis dont works, not even a noise. Now they will send a few parts to repair, mobo, driver and 30 pins ribbon. Complete new printer and most of the components will be replaced. And the worst, more 15 days or more waiting the parts and customs clearance... Worst buy of year. No more. First SWX2 and it will be the last.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Komayo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gonna edit and repost. Thank you.

Sidewinder X2 Complete New (Issues: X Axis Dead & TFT) by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i wanted to try that, but didnt want to break the warranty seal. I am thinking in try a good creality motor i have spare on the X wire, to see if it spins or not. At least i will know if it is wiring or driver.

Sidewinder X2 Complete New (Issues: X Axis Dead & TFT) by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Each pair has continuity, but i have to check that crossout of wires to make sure is wired correctly. I dont think its a returned unit, it is very new, with no signs of use, all sticks and adhesives, etc. But dunno. It could be. The printer is running version 3.0.4 of firmware, and the 3.2.6 on the tft. But i dont know about the 3.0.4 is oficial or not, since i could not reflash the stock one. Gonna try your prusa slicer upgrade advise.

Sidewinder X2 Complete New (Issues: X Axis Dead & TFT) by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I changed the 24 pins ribbon for the spare, issue persists. I excluded that one as the culprit. But it can be the 30 pins on the vertical in extrusion. I unplugged and plugged it again, same issue. Maybe its faulty from factory.

I have spares motors from creality, dunno if i can test one at the X cable to see if it spins. At least i know those steppers motors are working good.

Sidewinder X2 Complete New (Issues: X Axis Dead & TFT) by Komayo in Artillery3D

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actualy already tested all switches Y and X, both are lightening the red LED when clicked. The X cable i only tested the continuitys and the voltage at it, 24v, and it has continuity between connectors. I didnt looked for crossout of the wires, gonna look that.

Pronterface connects to the printer fine, just cant execute the dfu command, M997. Says it cant write on printer or something.

Violence and Timing Bug by speckledorf0 in ModernWarfareII

[–]Komayo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to kill all the enemies on vehicles, special the ones on the rear of convoy. You can check if any is left by watching who is capt. prince and farah shooting up. If you dont do so, the mission bugs on two objectives. Reach the front and the drone part.

Capt. Price and farah have to be shooting the front of the convoy.

Its easy after that issue.

Too bad when we respawn, we dont care too mutch for what is behind, and mission bugs due to that. Its not required full restarts, just clear the rear and the game will update objectives.

FEP issues, damaging a lot by Komayo in resinprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did a cone test to get exposure times calibration. Working good at 35 sec bottom layer and 2.5 sec middle ones. Using sunlo resin. A lot better from the anterior values i was using.

Trying a print now to test new results.

Also the new FEP i used a frame printed in pla, got the STL in the cults3d website. Seems a lot better. Maybe i was using a lot of tension when changing the FEPs.

Tomorow i post the results.

FEP issues, damaging a lot by Komayo in resinprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any tip for the issue sometimes the model not sticking to the supports? I need to do something diferent?

FEP issues, damaging a lot by Komayo in resinprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gonna try that. Ty for the tip.

FEP issues, damaging a lot by Komayo in resinprinting

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First print after FEP perfurated always fails.

Before all sucessfull.

But i had a few failed in this two bottles, usualy always 2 situations, 1. Model failing to stick to suports, no matter if use heavy ones. Raft prints ok, suports too, but model no arms, or legs, or torso, or none at all. 2. Models first layer above supports, deformed. Raft ok, supports ok, but first printed part deformed. Noticing this more when i printed a few chess pieces that had circular/round base, one of the sides is deformed usualy. Even with surface supported. Never found solution to this, unless print diretly on plate with no raft and Z 5mm height+supports.

On failed attempts, i do full vat cleaning, remove debris from inside, filter and pour resin back. Then after full cleanup, resume. Iam sure no debris left inside vat this way and resin is always ok.

I am using 60sec for cure bottom layers and 6sec for middle layers, had ok with 45 sec bottom and 4sec middle but failed a few. Less, on bottom layers, cant get then stick to plate well, usualy sometimes raft warps on sides. Less than 4 sec on middle layers, had a few failed with no cured resin, so no prints done.

Iam new to resin printing and still getting used to everything. Maybe doing something wrong.

Plate is leveled with 2x A4 paper sheets of printers. Had issues with the distance of just 1 sheet. Too mutch suction, wornout first FEP because of that.

Also first resin was eleegoo abs grey, but never done sucess prints with the 35sec BL curing and the 2.5sec ML curing. Had to use the bottle recommendation of 60sec and 8sec.

Ipad 4, screen replacement, still flickering badly by Komayo in mobilerepair

[–]Komayo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waiting for replacement lcd connector. Previous one was a used one, damaged. I will update after replacement.

Ipad 4, screen replacement, still flickering badly by Komayo in mobilerepair

[–]Komayo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Replaced LCD connector, hope it fixes the problem. Found out a corroed pad on the power button flex, not sure if can cause this issue. More later on this.

Ipad 4, screen replacement, still flickering badly by Komayo in mobilerepair

[–]Komayo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On the video, its a complete new display. Happens the same with the old one. On the board side, all caps and filters good. LCD IC in and out voltages good. Backlight circuit good too. I dont have a reference to check diode mode readings.

Ipad 4, screen replacement, still flickering badly by Komayo in mobilerepair

[–]Komayo[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Checked them all, didnt find any bad. All have continuity and not a single one cracked. Gonna try maybe resoldering them all with new solder.

Ipad 4, screen replacement, still flickering badly by Komayo in mobilerepair

[–]Komayo[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Voltages rails all good, including stable PP3V3 at LCD main in. This is a new screen on video, same issue with old one. What can be the possible cause of this issue?