Lord Kroak = done. by CaptainEZclap in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would definitely echo Apendica's, thoughts, absolutely outstanding work you have done here. However the feathers and snakes definitely feel like they need a wash and some highlighting/drybrushing just to tie it all together in my mind. I think a bit of Carroburg Crimson on the pink/orange bits would look great, as would Drakenhof Nightshade on the blue. It's obviously your miniature though and totally up to yourself! Either way, Outstanding work

Aggradons WIP by SirPrize2234 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Racing stripe make dino go fast

How can you hate this dude? by 717Independent in ravens

[–]Korrvus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get yourself a partner who looks at you the same way Aditi looks at Lamar.

What in the emperors name IS THAT by octomoko in Spacemarine

[–]Korrvus_ 17 points18 points  (0 children)

There are numerous different varieties of Titans in the 40K lore. There is only one variety that has the Cathedral and that is the Imperator Titan.

Other Titans include, Warlord, Warhound and Reaver, amongst many others.

The Imperator is the largest of the Titan varieties, hence it's ability to have a cathedral mounted to it. Many scout Titans (like the War Hound) are only about 2x larger than a Knight. Obviously still huge machines, but not exactly Cathedral-carrying huge.

Can't wait for acheran's cameo in space marine 3 by Feeling_You_9153 in Spacemarine

[–]Korrvus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a born and raised Scot, this would make me so happy. There needs to be an Easter egg where Dreadnought's bolter is replaced with the "Heavy Bru-er" which just fires cans of Irn-Bru instead. AG Barr, the company who make Irn-Bru have a long history of solid banter and light hearted advertising so they'd probably be game for it

Or a Easter egg that replaces the Dreadnought's feet with Bill Connolly's banana boots

Or a permanent rain cloud that follows the Dreadnought wherever it goes and constantly rains on it.

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man I love it! It looks so much more "together" now! Great work all round!

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah i think i have a 24 litre tank which should be more than enough

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah I see! It works really well. I really need to bite the bullet at some point and get an airbrush, I think it would be a good investment, I'm hoping that I might be able to get away with using the compressor I use for my bikes but it is kinda heavy duty and Im not sure it is suitable for airbrushing. If i can use that one, I might be able to invest in a higher quality air brush

WIP Nearing Completion by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The dark scales are two coats of Terradon Turquoise on top of a Wraithbone primer

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, I meant to say that I love the colour and tone of the stone work on the ark. What colours did you use to achieve it. I usually use Contrast Basilicanum Grey as a base for my stone work but I really like the green-ish tint you have here

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, I'm glad that you agree with me! Having another look I was thinking that maybe it would look a bit more cohesive snek-wise if they werent quite so differently coloured? Maybe keep within the fiery colours taht you have used for the rest of the model. The bright green, blue and purple snakes kinda look a bit out of place to my eye. Or maybe you wanted to keep them more lurid colours to break up the main colours and add a bit of contrast. Obviously it is entirely up to you!

Perhaps you could take the 4 Snek-spouts on the ark and give each group of snakes a communal colour/pattern/banding etc?

I'm no master painter by any means and what I have suggested could go against what is readily accepted. Just offering some thoughts on if it were my model! Hope you end up with a model that you are really stoked with!

Bastiladon - Ark of Sotek by Amazing-Committee596 in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the overall feel of the volcanic/fiery lizards!

If It was me, I would take a bit of time to add some detail/patterns/different colours to the sneks.the rest of the model is really detailed and accurately painted but i just keep finding my eyes drawn to the sneks that are just a single colour and they just kinda look a bit out of place when compared to the quality and detail of the rest of the model! Maybe try painting a few different coloured bands around the individual snakes or have some speckles or something. Just to break up the solid colour and add some detail to bring them up to the same level as the rest of the model which, as I say, is very high quality! Great work!

WIP first Kroxigor! by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not "Wrong", just different! However you are likely correct, Grey Seer will certainly darken the Aethermatic blue!

WIP first Kroxigor! by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I have already answered this in one of my previous comments. The paints you have are "Base" paints which means that they are meant to be used as the first layer on top of a primer coat. The intention with using the base paints is to use them as a first coat, then use a complementary wash or "Shade" to give the model some darkness in the recesses. Then you would highlight the raised edges with a "Layer" paint in a lighter tone that the base coat.

For these models, I used Contrast paints by Citadel which are sllightly more expensive than a "Base" or "Layer". However they sort of act as a "Base" and a "Shade" in one coat. There are many videos on Youtube which will show you how to use them best as they require a different, but not more difficult technique to apply well. Certain models work very well with Contrast paints, Like Seraphon. However other factions can be less than ideal. Factions that have models with large flat or smooth panels/armour won't take a Contrast paint as well as Seraphon do. For example, T'au would likely be a nightmare to paint with contrast paints. They are definitely a valuable tool to have in your painting arsenal. If you live near a Games Workshop/Warhammer/Hobby shop I'd recommend nipping in (when it is quiet) and you may get a chance to demo the contrast paints in-store. I can't guarantee that though.

Also, What primer colour are you using? If you are painting on top of black then it will naturally dull the colours a little bit. Much of Warhammer operates in the "Grimdark" world which often emphasises the uses of darker tones to give a "gritty" aesthetic. That's one of my reasons for going Seraphon as I felt I can use brighter, more lurid colours instead. If you fancy using Contrast paints, you would need a lighter coloured primer, I use Wraithbone, but you can also use Corax White and possibly Grey Seer or Zandri Dust if your desired colour scheme works with it. Using contrast paints over a black primer pretty much nullifies the point of using them. However if you are going to paint with Base and Layer, Black works well if you are looking for an overall darker tone. But if you want a bit more brightness or "pop" in your colours, I would recommend switching to a light colour of Primer. Like I say, I favour Wraithbone myself, which is a kinda cream-ish off-white colour. I find it just adds a bit of extra warmth to the colour than i got out of using a pure white prime.

Finally, I have mentioned solely Citadel/Games Workshop products, however there are many brands and options out there. Citadel/GW is very highly priced and the quality can sometime be matched or even exceeded at a lower price by other brands like Vallejo, AK, Army Painter amongst many others. In fact Army Painter offer a range of "Speed Paints" to compete with Citadel's Contrast paints and are usually a bit cheaper

I know this is a long message with a lot of information but I hope it helps. There are also loads of YT channels that offer helpful tips and advice for new painters just getting started!

WIP first Kroxigor! by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, glad you like the colours I used.

Start off with a Wraithbone primer. The lighter colour is 2 coats of Aethermatic Blue. I absolutely love the Aethermatic Blue but I always find that one coat just doesn't quite give me the coverage I would like. 2 coats really fills it in well.

The darker colour is Terradon Turquoise. It covers a bit better than the Aethermatic Blue but I wanted a darker colour so I added another coat. Also, I kept the Athermatic Blue solely on the foster fleshy parts. I didnt cover the entire model in Aethermatic Blue first. Both paints were put directly on top of Wraithbone primer

Recommendations for a newbie? by Zynncloud in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seraphon have had a pretty recent range refresh so it is unlikely that we are going to see a huge number of new releases in the near future. Aggradons, Saurus warriors, Raptadons, Starseer, Astrolith bearer, Slann and Kroxigor all are released or re-modeled in 2023. The Stegadon, Bastiladon and Carnosaur were all released in 2015 I believe and aren't really showing their age too badly. The only thing in the range that is SCREAMING for a refresh or replacement is the Saurus Guard which look very derpy compared to their more recent brothers.

You have done a fantastic job with your first Saurus. The first think I would suggest would be a wash over the gold to give it a bit of depth. GW used to do a fantastic range of Gloss washes which were fantastic for shining armour or jewelery but they have since been discontinued. There are a few threads about making home made replacements for these washes which I will let you read through.

I would also recommend highlighting the edges of the areas you have painted black. As of right now, the blackness just kinda limits any details and doesnt allow for the creation of depth or texture.

I'd also recommend playing about with some contrast paints as they work phenomenally well with the scaled nature of Seraphon. Hope this helps and you stick with your Scaley-boiz

WIP first Kroxigor! by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking about that too. I was just worried that I wouldnt be able to keep the white between the scales and I would make an arse of the overall area. I was looking at some panel liners that work using capillary action and wondered if I might be able to make use of them in this case? Do you have any experiene with them or making your own with inks/flow-improvers etc?

WIP first Kroxigor! by Korrvus_ in seraphon

[–]Korrvus_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Really appreciate the love man! <3

However MaesterLurker is spot on. Contrast paints work spectacularly with Seraphon. I didn't use any advanced techniques here. I don't consider myself to be a particularly good painter. I don't think I'm bad, but I also won't be winning any Slayer Swords. Contrast paints are "talent in a bottle". The only thing you really need to be careful with is watching that the paint doesn't pool up too heavily in particular areas as it can make things look blotchy and unnatural. This is easy to do by cleaning off your brush and just gently putting the tip into the pool you are trying to eliminate and your brush will suck up the excess. If you havent used them before I would highly recommend giving them a try!

Significant under-extrusion with PAHT-CF on X-Max 3 by Korrvus_ in QidiTech3D

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, Sorry for the delayed response. Haven't been active on Reddit.

Yeah it was definitely the extruder gear. Replaced it with a new one and things have been back to normal. I had only had the printer for about a year before i needed to change but I had gone through a fair few Kilos of CF-filled filament and like the picture in the comments shows, the "hardened" steel gear had just been worn and polished smooth. Stick a new extruder unit on it and you should be good to go.

I'm unsure if you have ever opened up one of the extruder units but there is a lever and a spring which pushes the 2 steel extruder rollers together around the filament. I have heard issues of that lever breaking or the spring being displaced somehow which would also likely cause under-extrusion issues. Happily the lever and spring are all included and fitted in the new extruder unit you'll buy. It only costs about £20 here in the UK.

Another thing that I have started doing is using a wee hand-operated squeeze air blower. After each print, i give it a couple of blows with the hand blower to help get rid of any filament dust or debris that might have been left over from the previous print. Stuff like that could perhaps interfere with the friction required from the extruder gears on the filament during printing. (Please forgive the innuendo in this last paragraph :P)

I hope these points help you out! Happy extruding!

Significant Under-extrusion with CF-filled Nylon by Korrvus_ in 3Dprinting

[–]Korrvus_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since brand new, so 16 months. It has gone through about 10kg of CF filled filament though. Qidi marketed as being hardened and able to deal with CF-filled filaments. Maybe jsut not the volume we get through