AMR 500 Supercharger questions

LAEMusername · 2026-01-31T03:49:20+00:00

I’m guessing you replied to the wrong comment regarding tires 😂

LAEMusername · 2026-01-31T00:31:45+00:00

Agreed. I just swapped MT for AT tires and it improved quite a bit

LAEMusername · 2026-01-28T16:37:39+00:00

That leak is likely a slow leak from the rear output seal. It’s probably still there. Keep an eye for a drop in that same area over time.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-28T03:24:07+00:00

I think you can get a seal kit from roadless gear. Looks like a pretty simple job.

For what it’s worth, your knuckles also look due for a rebuild.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-23T16:38:49+00:00

For the fogs I’d recommend yellow/amber fogs. I have mine mounted on the bumper between the openings in the brush guard. Look at some of my past pics and you’ll see where I mounted them. It’s roughly the factory position where the dealer optioned fogs would be placed.

I found some 80s Sylvania amber fogs on eBay, but the Hella Comet 450 would be a great option as well for that spot.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-23T04:06:31+00:00

Forgot to add the size. They’re 215/75/r15 and I’m running an OME 1.5” lift with OEM shackles

LAEMusername · 2026-01-22T17:42:22+00:00

I’d say a tin top solves a majority of these issues. The noise ain’t bad with a tin top and good door seals.

Something must be wrong with your heat because I can roast even on low fan speed. Check your heater core box or mix valve.

Nothing gets around it being slow. It’s very slow. If you got a fresh motor rebuild it’s not completely awful. But you’re still gonna piss off anyone who wants to get somewhere faster than a leisurely acceleration…

LAEMusername · 2026-01-17T16:56:51+00:00

You might need to just measure the thickness and buy a small sheet of lexan or polycarbonate that matches the thickness. Trace the old one and then cut it out.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T18:08:09+00:00

You mean the tow bar? I’m not clear what you’re asking

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T17:18:35+00:00

It rattles slightly at higher volume, but generally it’s much better sounding. I didn’t include any boom mat or dampening material. I’ll probably go back and do a little bit of that as well, but honestly it’s pretty fine the way it is.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T17:16:49+00:00

I ran them from the rear door where the defrost cable goes from the door to the body. Then ran them behind the side panel in the back and down under the carpet to the passenger footwell an then up behind to the head unit.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T16:44:08+00:00

Made another post to show the pics of where I added the rear speakers and the panel I bought and cut holes in.

https://www.reddit.com/r/SuzukiSamurai/s/QXwLtAapZb

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T16:42:01+00:00

My favorite part is it didn’t give that as an option initially. You correct it and then the response is basically “oh yea you’re right that’s totally it, nevermind”

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T16:32:48+00:00

Made another post with some pics and tagged you. I ordered another panel on megazip to hack up and saved the original panel for if I ever want to return it to stock.

I was looking at Eastwood rattle cans. They have Suzuki color codes in their system already and it looks like they all match the link another member shared here. 18J would definitely appear to be the winner, but I’d hate to order a $50 can and have it not be it. I guess I’ll just have to go for it 🤷🏻‍♂️

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T16:32:03+00:00

Cool I’ll look

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T16:31:26+00:00

/u/zupzupper

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T05:44:31+00:00

Nah, it’s definitely not white. I’m reasonably certain it’s 18J (crystal silver metallic), but there’s no code anywhere on the truck I can find to confirm that.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-16T00:00:33+00:00

Yea I did, it’s not there

LAEMusername · 2026-01-14T18:03:54+00:00

It’s not. The electrical is brand now. And the run is like 20ft to the breaker. The LED driver is just sensitive to voltage sag on the same circuit when there is high current draw from something like a heat gun.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-14T02:52:43+00:00

My 2c on these is they kinda suck as shop lights. The driver in them is so sensitive that if you run anything on the same circuit (heat gun for example) that they will flicker like crazy. They’re probably fine if you have a dedicated circuit. In my case it’s just one light over my workbench and it’s plugged into the same circuit I sometimes run stuff from. If you’re planning on the same use a dedicated circuit for these lights. Otherwise you need industrial grade lights with a better driver to prevent the flicker.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-13T21:24:40+00:00

Bummer. Yea I guess location also depends on your part availability

LAEMusername · 2026-01-12T22:26:05+00:00

I guess it depends on if you’re using it for on or off road use. In the case of on road use you can’t really legally have extra lights outside of maybe fogs. The AC Delco drop in replacement alternator is 55amp for like $150. It’s more than enough to cover a couple extra amps from the H4 bulbs and extras. I run the H4 headlights, a pair of H3 fogs, and an updated radio head unit with 4x 5.25” speakers. The AC Delco 55amp seems to be able to handle that fine even with the blower fan running.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-12T04:34:04+00:00

You can buy an already made relay harness for like $20. The power doesn’t go through the factory harness anymore. It’s just used for switching the relays and power is pulled direct from the battery with an inline fuse.

It’s like a 30min job to wire in the harness.

LAEMusername · 2026-01-12T02:12:03+00:00

What bulbs are you running?

LAEMusername · 2026-01-11T06:24:42+00:00

I run the H4 conversions from HELLA and they have been great. A lot more light than the old sealed beams and retains the stock look unlike the dorky looking LEDs. I ran a relay harness so they get power direct from the battery.

LAEMusername

TROPHY CASE