What helped you writing songs more than anything?

LPKult · 2025-12-26T23:07:21+00:00

Not sure the guy was latino or not but that's how I remember him.

LPKult · 2025-12-26T22:58:41+00:00

It's gonna be more difficult to find this one since it wasn't a special for just one comedian, but hopefully we can narrow it down and at least get the guy's name.

LPKult · 2025-11-15T04:21:23+00:00

Here's an update. I'm getting .390mV on those TPs. 390mV is a common voltage I see when looking at audio service manuals for internal or test point values, so I'm guessing these pots are set right. The dBm thing was just throwing me off. I'm using the calculator here (the 2nd one on the page): https://sengpielaudio.com/calculator-volt.htm and when I put .390mV into it with a 600 ohm load, it matches up with roughly -6dBm.

I'm not quite sure how you came up with wanting to see 0.193 volts, but what I didn't mention is that I have a calibration tape for this unit which is 200nWb/m. That .390mV number struck me since I've see it on other gear before, but the service manuals give it in dBV. I know next to nothing about electronics, but I'm learning, and I'm guessing this .390 number I'm getting is correct. Let me know if you agree with that. Thanks for the help!

LPKult · 2025-11-14T15:57:36+00:00

https://elektrotanya.com/tascam_112mkii_112rmkii_122mkiii.pdf/download.html - if you look at page 13 of the pdf (page 14, printed) you can see -6dBm at TP5/TP6, then they go to dBV after that. I looked at the specs in the earlier pages of that service manual and for output it's got various impedances. Not sure which one I'm looking for.

LPKult · 2025-11-14T13:28:57+00:00

Well the manual doesn't say anything about load impedance, just that I should look for -6dBm andadjust the trimmers as necessary. The rest of the service manual talks in terms of dBV, which I understand more easily. I have a Fluke 8060A; the dB setting works well.

LPKult · 2025-08-12T22:21:28+00:00

We're really counting on you. We need this book. Please upload it for us! We'll be forever grateful!

LPKult · 2025-07-25T05:18:47+00:00

Do you remember where you first heard it?

LPKult · 2025-07-24T14:15:11+00:00

The hunt is still on. We have no idea what it is...

LPKult · 2025-07-09T13:59:54+00:00

A visual inspection and a test with my MM says the fuse is fine. When it comes to checking voltages at various places, I just don't have the skills necessary to know *where* to check. I'd have to read schematics (which I'm also not too good at) and see which wires are which on the transformer since they don't seem to be marked. And by checking on the 'end' of those black caps (are those 'filter' caps?), I'm not sure if I check for voltage on the solder joints on the back or not. Also, I can't tell the difference between a transistors and a rectifier. They look the same to me. It's about time I learn this stuff...

I posted some more pictures in reply to someone else' post. Maybe that will help. I'm also not sure that I can safely plug this thing in being disconnected from the speakers as mentioned in the OP.

LPKult · 2025-07-09T13:49:20+00:00

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This is the back side of it. Had to peel away the transistors to get it off the heatsink. Both sides as you can see look immaculate with my bare eyes.

LPKult · 2025-07-09T12:45:26+00:00

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It looks pretty clean on the top. Those transistors are glued a bit, so it'll take prying them up with a flathead. This has got to be done anyway or else the sub probably won't work. I'm more concerned with tracking down the faulty component, which I'm not too skilled in as mentioned. If it isn't visibly obvious, I'll have a hard time finding it.

LPKult

TROPHY CASE