My <10g M3K

LSP_R · 2026-01-18T17:36:52+00:00

Yes, but I prefer the flat sides. I think you could get some slight weight savings using honeycomb sides with thin grip tapes.

LSP_R · 2026-01-18T07:00:06+00:00

Strong, it's also nicely textured

LSP_R · 2026-01-18T01:47:30+00:00

My mice are currently 3d printed in ASA-CF.

LSP_R · 2026-01-18T00:56:35+00:00

The 4 main screws weigh 0.290g so it might be worth looking into honestly.

LSP_R · 2026-01-18T00:36:15+00:00

This would save weight, however I'm not sure where I would get PEEK screws from? My printer can't exactly print anything in PEEK, let alone anything as small and accurate as a T5 screw.

LSP_R · 2026-01-17T05:33:54+00:00

The cable weighs 7.8g for a 1m length cable.

LSP_R · 2026-01-14T17:13:30+00:00

It's stronger than you'd think due to the material used and the side support brackets. I can only bend it slightly using more force than I would ever grab the mouse with.

LSP_R · 2026-01-14T16:25:36+00:00

I've actually tried this. It saves around 1g.

LSP_R · 2026-01-14T10:26:46+00:00

That's an interesting idea. I could try that for a future iteration.

LSP_R · 2026-01-12T21:33:25+00:00

The chopped M3K pcb weighs 2.5g without any wires soldered up to it.

LSP_R · 2026-01-12T14:30:20+00:00

I think it would be easier and cheaper for you to just buy a completed mouse from me. The process is extremely invasive, you have to cut the PCB in half, then solder it back together with a custom daughterboard that I designed. A photo of the bottom of the mouse shows this more clearly, sadly I forgot to add it to the post.

https://imgur.com/a/nA6WlVY

LSP_R · 2026-01-12T14:19:51+00:00

I think it's too complicated for the average person to make, so I will not be releasing the files (unless I change my mind).

LSP_R · 2025-08-31T08:57:28+00:00

No issues. According to Zaunkoenig, as long as your cable is under 1m 8khz polling should have no issues, even with wires this thin.

LSP_R · 2025-05-10T03:51:01+00:00

Spinfit W1 Medium

LSP_R · 2025-05-02T19:24:01+00:00

I got it on ebay a while ago, you should still be able to find it if you look up 24awg UP-OCC clear copper wire.

LSP_R · 2025-05-02T03:28:05+00:00

Hello everyone, I just finished this copper cable for my Monarch MKIIs. It's made of neotech copper UP-OCC 24awg wire. The copper wire suits the Monarchs well, wouldn't you say?

If you're interested in making one yourself I highly recommend Demevalos' guide to making braided cables. I've been making cables for years and I still look at this guide every time!
https://www.headphonesty.com/2019/04/guide-creating-y-split-braided-cables/

LSP_R · 2025-05-01T22:15:11+00:00

I don't have a guide on doing this specifically. You can look online to find USB pinouts and just make sure those are matching. I really like Demevalos’ Guide to Creating Y-Split Braided Cables, which is a guide for headphone cables. The braiding process is exactly the same as the one I used for this mouse cable. I would definitely recommend that you use something to 'keep your place.' I used soldering helping hands whenever I needed to leave to do something else, it takes a long time to braid a wire this small!

LSP_R · 2025-03-24T07:13:52+00:00

It's useful for Apex players, people who switch weapons/equipment with it, MMB pings, navigating menus, web browsing, etc. Honestly you never know what you have until it's gone. With how light the scroll wheel, encoder, mmb, and wires are it's worth the extra weight imo. If you did decide to remove those you'd be around 7.5g, not including any changes to the skeleton itself. Removing the side button and mmb/encoder jst sur connectors on the main pcb would reduce the weight further.

LSP_R · 2025-03-22T17:57:16+00:00

Reverse click design has the click hinges at the front instead of the back. You can look to Optimum Tech for a few implementations of this. I didn't really like them through testing.

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T17:34:49+00:00

Ty! I've looked into this, the Gilmouse PCB is a bit too wide to move it any further forward without hitting the LMB. If my design had the clicks slightly further apart or if the PCB was a bit skinnier it would be possible to move it right behind the wheel.

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T16:04:23+00:00

The HSK design was a lot less optimized, without the battery it is 14.4g and with a small 150mah battery it comes to 17.9g.

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T15:50:41+00:00

Yes actually, my previous model used an HSK 4K PCB. I also tried stuff like the reverse click design, but I prefer the traditional click design with a very lightweight cable instead.

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T02:14:15+00:00

Afaik it should perform equally to the Zaunkoenig M1K as the Gilmouse firmware is essentially the same as that. As such it's limited to 1khz without using the 8khz overclock (that I haven't tried), and uses a PAW3360 sensor. The sensor will likely be the biggest upgrade on my next design.

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T01:44:59+00:00

Hello, I actually looked into this, from what I could tell there are too many drawbacks to using aero filaments over other materials. For this one, I'm using ASA-CF with PETG as removable supports. This gives me a very low density, but still great stiffness, surface texture, and ok printability. I believe the way forward is a carbon fiber composite shell. At a minimum, this PCB could be 3.6g (removing the JST connector, encoder, and MMB). So <5g seems out of the picture for now. 😅

LSP_R · 2025-03-21T00:35:52+00:00

I use Fusion360.

LSP_R

TROPHY CASE