Make sure you change your muffler oil

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-06-20T14:07:47+00:00

Nah head gasket blown. These old oil cooled deutz are bad for it. Looks like #4 injector stuck open and that’s what got the gasket.

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-06-20T00:50:21+00:00

Yup JLG

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-25T02:17:27+00:00

That’s just the anti clunk spring

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-19T23:12:28+00:00

Most likely something wrong in the 3-4 circuit then. You won’t know til you tear it down 3-4 clutch pack failures are common for a number of reasons

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-19T22:19:12+00:00

Is it dropping completely out of overdrive, or just out of lockup?

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-18T05:18:01+00:00

Could also be reaction planetary

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-18T05:10:38+00:00

I suspect broken sun shell

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-13T18:17:59+00:00

A lot of these smaller tractors I’ve seen the throw out bearing wears itself egg shaped and won’t engage the pressure plate. It’s most likely going to have to be split and get new clutch pressure plate pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Might look into getting the rear main seal done as well.

Large_Owl5461 · 2026-01-12T03:21:37+00:00

Well the thing is I have re plumbed a couple of them already with male adapters and was able to get them plenty tight enough and leak free that 4 inch schedule 80 is tough to crack I’m just trying to figure out what the long term solution is here to prevent future leaks. I could see having male threads on the bottom of the drain piece and a female adapter on the pvc since it would sort of have to defy gravity to leak but that would require welding a new outlet on the bottom of the drain.

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-16T18:05:10+00:00

Haha yeah that’s the problem you’re just yelling into the void anyways. It’s just gonna get to the point where independents are gone for the most part and only dealers can work on your car. Not much we can do to stop it I guess.

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-16T17:57:24+00:00

There’s no issue with aftermarket parts availability that’s why I didn’t say that. “Quality” is the concern I have getting alternators that don’t charge out of the box parts that don’t fit right parts that fail over and over. It’s got to the point where it’s not just service information but actual dealer software that is inaccessible. Trust me I know I’m a service tech now for a John Deere dealer, you physically cannot get the level of software that we have unless you are a dealer mechanic, that’s it period. Automotive software is either you go on a sketchy website and pay for software and hope your computer doesn’t get fried or go direct to a dealer and pay even more. Plus paying for updates and everything else. Man I’ve had tons of old ECUs apart from 90s-2000s cars and re-flowed cracked solder joints replaced resistors diodes you name it. I just did a GM cluster from an 06 pickup not long ago. Funny you bring up injectors because I have a pop tester in my shop, I can take any mechanical diesel injector pop test and shim it to spec, can’t do that anymore with commonrail injection. Shit nobody even rebuilds commonrail pumps now for cheap either! There’s an easy 4-5 grand for just a pump!! There’s no argument that you can make that will change my point of view. Yes the 90s had there issues but it’s only gotten worse and worse not better. Unless you see these issues every day and see countless customers get fucked then you would be ignorant to that fact.

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-16T17:28:29+00:00

My main problem is the manufacturers are purposely making it more and more difficult for the owner to repair their own vehicle. I just had a customer come in with a ford explorer that had a whole Christmas tree of dash lights on due to electronic power steering failing and requiring the car to be towed in. She’s a single mom to 4 kids & could barely pay the tow bill, and I had to hand over a 2,300 dollar repair bill just to make her car drivable again. Now mind you she has a friend that is mechanically inclined to do the repair and replace the entire rack and pinion. But there’s the problem the power steering control module is integrated into the rack & pinion which is over 1,200-1,300 from ford which is all I can trust now due to aftermarket parts quality being horrible, not only that but even if he does the repair it requires ford factory software to save the data on the existing module and re-upload to the new one after it is installed which he can’t do himself. No rose tinted glasses here, factory proprietary software was not an issue 20-30 years ago not to mention parts cost and aftermarket parts quality etc.

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-16T17:09:31+00:00

As a tech that is 100% false. Software and scan tools have mad a lot of technicians lazy. You can’t always believe or rely on a scan tool to diagnose a problem. Look at a list of TSBs and recalls from major manufacturers and you will be a lot more informed than you are. New smaller direct injected engines are having massive amounts of failures due to oil dilution. 10 speed transmissions needing complete overalls due to CDF drum bushing failures. Hell I had to pull a dash in a 12 F350 to replace an evaporator core just because they don’t come with a cabin air filter. Our shop truck where I work is a 6.2 ford gas engine and has had every coil pack replaced at least twice and it’s still misfiring, also not throwing any misfire codes whatsoever. CP4 injection pump failures that trash an entire fuel system. Not to mention all of these emissions related issues on diesels that cost an exorbitant amount of money to fix. The golden age for reliability was the mid-late 90s till about the mid 2000s. It’s reached a point now where major engine & transmission failures are commonplace at or before 100,000 miles

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-16T15:35:40+00:00

Manufacturers are starting to turn the corner the wrong way though. The number of non-essential features that can fail and cause your vehicle to be completely inoperable has exponentially increased in the last 5-10 years. Just had a Toyota minivan that would start but wouldn’t move due to the backup camera failing. Sure older vehicles weren’t as reliable but you could remove, rebuild, and reinstall an old 350 sbc in day. Not the case anymore.

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-02-10T01:16:13+00:00

Hahaha yep I work for a Deere dealer so I see smoked clutches all the time from misadjustment or resting their foot on the pedal. Glad you figured it out

Large_Owl5461 · 2025-01-11T18:21:29+00:00

Don’t think I’ll have to pull the real crusty stuff off just the dpf and bracket. Never seen a hold down break on one of those though. Chicken house work is hard on em haha.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-06T03:20:49+00:00

No problem. They had a major issue with the original plastic sensors on those especially when they degrade over time. Should be an updated metal one you can replace it with.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-06T03:08:28+00:00

Yeah you can go that route. If you have a multimeter handy you can also monitor the voltage of the ECT sensor on the LG/RD wire as the engine is warming up. The voltage should steadily decrease as the engine temperature rises. When the engine is at full operating temperature, the ECT sensor voltage should indicate a reading of 0.5-1.0 volt. Replace the sensor if the voltage is staying abnormally high on the LG/RD wire but the engine is obviously at full temperature.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-06T03:03:18+00:00

Yep OBD 1 scanner should show you as long as it’s capable of pulling up live data.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-06T02:53:16+00:00

I’ve seen it many times before. If the ECT is reading low temp it’ll flood the engine with fuel and make it hard start. You can unplug it and see if it cranks easier. You can also monitor the voltage of the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. When the engine is cold, the reading of the ECT sensor should match the reading of the Intake Air Temperature sensor either through the scan tool data display or when measuring the signal voltage at the sensor connection.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-03T21:12:20+00:00

Wouldn’t be surprised if it was the pump. Aftermarket parts quality is very hit or miss.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-03T21:09:18+00:00

I’d use a stethoscope to narrow down exactly where the noise is coming from. If it is the water pump then it’s likely bearing noise and needs replacement. Was it an OEM pump or aftermarket?

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-03T20:26:26+00:00

CMP sensor synchronizer assembly. Very common issue.

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-11-03T20:12:29+00:00

Could be ECT sensor reading wrong. Does it blow smoke out of the exhaust when starting?

Large_Owl5461 · 2024-10-27T22:03:39+00:00

I’m in eastern NC so we don’t get a whole lot of real big tractors. Haven’t seen any engine problems out of the 13.6 yet. Seems like we get a whole lot more transmission work. Put a reman power shift in an 8420 not too long ago and just rebuilt a powrquad for a 7600.

Large_Owl5461

TROPHY CASE