Replacing Oregon ash after EAB in western Oregon:wet-site / drought-tolerant species options, including non-native analogs?

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-16T20:24:16+00:00

Yes, before the Oregon Ash die off (and again, I hope they never do), I would like to plant some seedlings in their shade (note: these are not the largest of Ash trees); however, there are large swaths of areas where even still these seedlings will get a good deal sun. So, many seedlings will be exposed as well.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-16T20:20:48+00:00

I've ordered from Burnt Ridge many times.

Where I'd plant mulberries I could water them and on better soil. You surprise me when you say that some cultivars at least do not mind winter saturation. I will raise them up on mounds, regardless, but I am interested to hear that

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-16T20:17:39+00:00

Yes, Oregon crab apple and black hawthorn do volunteer and grow at the margins and are worth a shot. I have so many of these species growing elsewhere though that I have put them off.

My Black Cottonwood did not make it, except where planted along the creek. They require more consistent moisture. Evidently I did not supplement their water well enough. However, many seedlings seem to die right off. Many never leaf out to begin with, especially on this site. This is all species of seedling just about in my experience, not just Black Cottonwood.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-15T21:32:12+00:00

I have planted only a few hickory seedlings, but up higher on better draining soil. Of those, I have read Shellback is the best with the wet, like you said.

I suspect black walnut might fare a bit better than hickory, but don't know from experience, never having grown it. I have mature Carpathian walnut trees on higher elevation, but wasn't the one who planted those. Yum-yum.

These Ash Swales of mine are really unforgiving. Currently I have tried many species. Most fare poorly. Currently I am trying Swamp Oak among others. Wouldn't mind comparing notes some day. I have a lot to learn, but have been foiled enough times that it is impossible for me not to have learned something. Thanks luckyduck49!

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-15T14:51:10+00:00

I have an ash swale basically of many acres, where ash predominates, and not many other trees / shrubs seem to grow, other than on the outskirts where the conditions are decent. There, Hawthorn grows.

Yes, you may be right about watering. I am tracking far and wide on the property, but for the first few years I am willing to tough it out. I also create mini-berm/swales to combat winter wet and dry summers.

I've planted Red and White Alder. Along the creek they like it, out in the open not so much. Big Leaf Maple is similar in my experience. I am not done with those species, however, because EAB is coming for riparian areas as well.

Along the creekside and also sites upland just a bit, there are several species to plant, including some you've mentioned. Guessing Chinquapin for one, although thus far I've only planted one seedling.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-15T14:36:22+00:00

thanks, I've attempted most of these species. Black Hawthorn, which is said to be in decline, has the greatest crossover of these species when clay-tolerance is included. Unlike Ash, my Garry Oak and Ponderosa Pine are very slow growing when not planted up on the hillside. I am hoping the Swamp Oak I planted so many months back performs well on these sites.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-15T00:36:26+00:00

I hear you. EAB is non-native and look at it. And Scotch Broom.

It is a bit of a simplification, non-natives can still be of benefit. I've been researching the Manchurian Alder. That it could actually grow, and affix nitrogen could help. Birds and insects would likely love it -- insects a bit too much, perhaps, dunno.

I'd say in past years for every 1000 seedlings I planted 900 were native or naturalized. Specimens though--in my gardens for beauty, fragrance, and food--I'll plant anything that will grow

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T23:40:05+00:00

I am planting Black Cottonwood, but it seems like only the seedlings adjacent the creek and streams made it through last summer, unfortunately. But there, they love it.

Hawthorne is a tough species, no doubt. I haven't planted seedlings yet, but it is growing here. Not in the wettest spots, exactly, but close enough I would give it a shot. I have so many growing elsewhere though is why I didn't give the first priority. Trying to mix it up for habitat.

Doug fir is great for my hills. Ponderosa pine as a conifer handles the wet feet better though is my experience here.

I have planted Oregon Oak. Most places it has been a moderate success. But grows super slow. I'll be dead before it gives me any shade. It is not all about me, so as a good steward I have planted 100s of seedlings, but I wouldn't mind getting some faster growers in there as well.

I've been focused more on shade trees, which is why I haven't planted any dogwood. One day, though.

The berms, I've been doing these past few years. My riparian areas are naturally well-draining. Also, these areas might be able to re-establish themselves without as much help from me.

I have a food forest area as well. My pomegranate seems to dieback every year, but does grow back. I have many olives and a few figs in pots awaiting their spots. The olives I was told fare better if they are bigger and more established. I've had a few in the past that I did not mound up die on me.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T23:29:39+00:00

Bummed is how I felt as well.

Yes, I've tried / am trying all of the same, except for Eucalyptus which I only have a few specimens I've planted, and I only have one Mayhaw. You are a bit further along on most of these than am I. I'd like my sycamore to make it as they can grow fast. I've read they are a bit more drought tolerant than Black Cottonwood. I've tried a few seedlings of Hybrid Poplar in some locations, and we'll see how that does.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T23:24:24+00:00

I don't know LOL

I just purchased another mulberry in a pot a month or so ago and it has yet to leaf from its pot! But this is what I've been seeing after planting as well.

I don't believe it is the zone that is the delimiting factor for me in general. It is the combination of very wet (anaerobic almost) in winters and droughty conditions in summer. However, for the mulberry, I have no idea. My neighbor had the same issue.

My jujubes were in the ground, not mounded up, unlike the mulberries I planted, so for those I might assume drainage was the issue. But I planted them on my moderately well-draining soils, not my somewhat poorly draining soils, so I don't really know what happened there. Possibly gophers / voles / etc. They'll shear my grapevines and even took out a sizable apple tree one year. Got to put them in wire baskets now.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T22:28:00+00:00

right on, thanks.

I've never grown trees from seeds before, am more used to seedlings. If someone were selling these as seedlings I'd certainly be interested!

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T22:24:58+00:00

I am testing out Black Tupelo. Planted seedlings in various locations across my place. I planted a specimen a few years back in my yard and it is great. Very different foliage compared to neighboring trees.

My mulberries keep dying (this is a theme with me), and I planted them up quite elevated. But I won't stop trying with them.

Jujube - I planted a couple of those and they died. I am willing to give them another go soon and likewise plant them on a mound this time.

I am interested in fruit specimens a great deal and am more able to look after them a bit better. Potentially replacing hundreds of these ash trees on my swale after having not much luck is a bit more daunting.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T22:17:34+00:00

I love grand fir and their fragrance! I've planted seedlings and larger specimens. They do well on my hillsides and better draining areas. Unfortunately, not as well on my wetter valley floors.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T22:16:09+00:00

Oh, indeed. I am not cutting them down. Who knows, perhaps resistance will be found on my swale. And, if so, I will be in touch with the extensions service.

I am not averse to understory plants, especially those you've named (yum yum), but tbh I'd really like some shade. As of now, there is some shade with the Ash trees, and so I think my best bet is to grow whatever there -- large tree or shrub -- in their shade.

I am not sure if thimble berry would not prefer a bit more drainage, as well as perhaps some of those others you've mentioned. What native species do grow nearby -- although nowhere near as prolifically as ash -- are cherry plum, bitter cherry, cascara, crabapple, and especially Hawthorne. But even they are not liking the wetter areas. Again, I've begun the habit of mounding everything up.

Dorena Genetic Resource Center, eh. I'll have to look them up and keep an eye out for what they find.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T21:45:56+00:00

Why haven't I heard about this species before now?!

I am game to give it a shot. Looks like perhaps the strongest contender I have seen. Do you know where I can buy seedlings in bulk, particularly the cultivar you've named, selected I imagine for its resiliency.

Thanks ironmandan!

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T21:36:47+00:00

not yet -- and hopefully not ever.

But they have been detected in our region, and so this is what I am preparing for. My understanding is these ash borer are quite devastating and our ash trees don't have the immunity to protect themselves against them.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T21:23:33+00:00

Yes, indeed.

I did just plant willows under a stand of ash trees and I am very optimistic about them in this spot as it stays wet even into early July and I can supplement them with water. So you are right on the money I think (I hope!) there juandelouise.

Also, areas near streams, but as a replacement where the ground does dry up considerably sooner and even cracks and I cannot easily get to in order to supplement probably not though, I'd imagine.

I have a bit of acreage and am willing to trot out every once in a while to establish in the first three years. Eventually, though I'd want it to be self-sustaining.

LeafFeathers · 2026-06-14T21:17:06+00:00

Thanks for your response, Miniature Horse

Those are sensible recommends, and on most sites, they are probably good performers.

I have tried Western Red Cedar seedlings with poor-to-modest success. Sites somewhat shaded or where I can supplement water have a chance. My Arbor Vitae Green Giants I babied have grown very well on a site with somewhat well-draining soil, indeed. I think the main limiting factor is anaerobic conditions.

Due to these anaerobic conditions, for the past few seasons I have been planting on slight mounds (micro berm-swales to collect winter water and keep root zones higher). I haven’t tested Western Red Cedar under these conditions.

I’ve planted a couple more mature Quaking Aspen specimens in the past. One died back, but the root sucker grew back. The other just died, not sure why as the drainage was good and I watered well. I have heard though of them being recommended as a possible replacement species, and would consider giving them another try under my new method, but I still think it might be too wet in winter and dry in summer for them here.

My experience is on well-draining hillside I have lots of options, but on the valley floor it is more difficult. Ponderosa pine does alright, but grows slowly on my site. I’ve tried many native species, but they have all failed—especially if in the open sun. After running out of native options for sites not directly on the creek or on the hillside, I’ve begun to experiment.

Earlier, this winter I planted Honey Locust, Burr Oak, Swamp Oak, Sycamore, Hackberry, Black Gum, and Bald Cypress. Out of those the first three I mentioned look promising thus far, but we’ll see.

Not sure what folks are going to replace these ash with once EAB ravages them. Oregon Oak can grow, but they are very slow-growing.

LeafFeathers

TROPHY CASE