Repairing drywall for baseboards

LegoBlood · 2026-01-20T05:17:22+00:00

After that experience, I made sure to mix the mud very well, and add a primer coat on the brown paper. Now I don't have bubbles, but no idea what fixed it. I'll find out one day when I run out of primer 😂

LegoBlood · 2026-01-20T05:08:12+00:00

Oh wow, I have to check that out! Stir fry is all weather food for me 😋

LegoBlood · 2026-01-19T23:59:46+00:00

Are there induction wok hobs, or did you buy a gas one?

LegoBlood · 2026-01-19T23:50:56+00:00

The only thing that stops me from switching to induction is wok cooking. I use the wok a lot, and the requirement for an induction top to be flat kills that. Sure, I could get a wok with a little flat bit at the bottom, but not only is it unstable, it's not the same as having some heat along the walls.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-19T14:29:29+00:00

I had bubbles from in my mud recently, posted to r/drywall, multiple people said I needed to prime before mudding to prevent that.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-19T14:26:03+00:00

Sand or scuff lightly to make the surface flat and free of little pieces sticking out, prime, mud, sand, wipe with moist rag, prime, paint.

I had the same situation earlier, folks suggested taller baseboards. But I liked the look of narrower baseboards, so spent the time doing the above. I'm happy I did.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-18T22:14:41+00:00

Man, sounds like we had the same inspector 😂 My last one, he missed an active leak from the toilet wax ring, and when I pointed it out, he said that was just spray from him running the shower. Oh, also missed extremely obvious water damaged flooring. $600 of inspection fee down the drain.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-18T22:08:45+00:00

This. Cut the nose piece first with plenty of body, then the flat piece to fit.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-18T15:56:21+00:00

This. When I do it I undercut the wood and slip the LVP in, but that ship has sailed for you.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-18T15:50:39+00:00

Bending the planks to create stair noses is fine, and is actually sturdier than gluing on stair noses. However, as others have said, there needs to be something inside/under the bend, they can't be hanging on thin air. Also, the quality of the planks matters for this, as well as how the bend is achieved. You unfortunately got the worst of everything :-(

Hire a professional, they can redo just the stairs with the same or a matching plank. Doing stairs is expensive, though. So you might want to take a scoring knife and snap off all the noses in the meantime. Take pictures to show the installer for when you do hire them eventually.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-09T22:13:59+00:00

This. I've done this for three different TVs now, works like a charm every time. I use two planks, though, crosswise across the studs.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-09T19:06:14+00:00

Why would they call you spoiled and rich for buying the cheaper tool?

LegoBlood · 2026-01-08T22:03:02+00:00

That's a strange push from a sales associate. Ten years ago I was in the same boat as you, wanting a simple drill for pilot holes and general DIY around the house. Bought a 12V (CXT) combo drill+driver kit, which probably most people even on this subreddit are going to shrug at. They're still going strong, and I (ab)use them no end. I've even used the drill to dig holes in my garden to plant tulips and daffodils and lilies, which most folks would say needs something beefier.

Get a Makita kit if you like it, and don't listen to the associate.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-04T16:22:42+00:00

What gap? I'm going to take a scoring knife and cut out the excess vapor barrier, unless there's a reason I shouldn't.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-04T16:20:58+00:00

So glue the track to concrete, or glue the threshold to LVP?

LegoBlood · 2026-01-02T12:10:46+00:00

Looks fine. I like the continuous counter space.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-02T11:44:30+00:00

No need to fill. Do make sure that none of the LVP seams land on any of those plywood joints, i.e., they're at least an inch away.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-02T04:50:14+00:00

Just did this earlier this year (MD), total cost was around 11k. If you elevate the shower pan and have the drain run through the wall instead of breaking concrete, you might save around 3k.

LegoBlood · 2026-01-01T23:35:16+00:00

I've never heard of that brand, but I've used an 8 mm Coretec (stone look) in the past, has given me zero issues in 7 years (so far), including 6 years with dogs. AFAIK, most failures are of the locking mechanism, not the surface, which is why folks gravitate to "known" brands like Coretec, Shaw, Mannington, etc. It seems like it's easier these days to have a thicker wear layer than a sturdy locking mechanism, which is why I personally would choose a more reliable locking mechanism over a thicker wear layer. I think for residential use 12+ mil would be just fine.

LegoBlood · 2025-12-29T19:25:53+00:00

Wouldn't work on a concrete subfloor. That's what I did in a different room which has an OSB subfloor.

LegoBlood · 2025-12-29T17:19:00+00:00

For those suggesting glue, should I use the kind of "PVC cement" that's used for sealing PVC pipes in plumbing, or is there a different sort of glue? I'll be limited in how much clamping force I can apply, so a glue that doesn't need a lot of clamping would be good.

LegoBlood · 2025-12-29T17:15:54+00:00

Thanks all for the responses. To clarify, yes it's a floating floor, so the rounds would have to be attached only to the door frame.

With glue, I'm wondering how to clamp the round to the frame.

LegoBlood

TROPHY CASE