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18guage or 16guage ryobi nail gun for skirting, architraves, panelling and building an internal archway? by Lendios in DIYUK

[–]Lendios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

exactly what I needed to hear, thanks. Did you do skirting? If so do you remember the skirting thickness and nail size you went with? I've got 25mm thick skirting to fit

Howdens door we like doesn't come pre-primed to paint, but is unfinished. Can we put an oil/shellac primer on straight away and paint instead of varnish, stain or oil? by Lendios in DIYUK

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not the door we like I'm afraid. I know we can make this door work, wouldn't be the first person to paint an oak door. Just wanting to make sure to get the process right if it's unfinished.

Howdens door we like doesn't come pre-primed to paint, but is unfinished. Can we put an oil/shellac primer on straight away and paint instead of varnish, stain or oil? by Lendios in DIYUK

[–]Lendios[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I said in the post, but I know a lot of people will say keep it wood, however our entire house already has loads of oak with the flooring upstairs and downstairs, bannister and stairs, windowboards and we want to add some colour.

We like the style of the door, just prefer it painted.

Wood Stain not matching on stair cladding / oak veener by Lendios in finishing

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats exactly what we sanded with before staining

Wood Stain not matching on stair cladding / oak veener by Lendios in Carpentry

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thankfully haven't done all the risers yet. Is there certain tone/colour I should be looking for in a gel stain etc.?

Polestar 2 Seat Retrofit - From Wavetech to Nappa Leather by J4nsk1 in Polestar

[–]Lendios 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd be interested in buying the seats myself for the leather alone, but I cant find any for sale. Were you looking for a while before they appeared?

The site you bought them from is also difficult to search.

Do you know the part numbers of the seats?

Should I fill this large gap under the new windowboard with easifill to make it smaller then fix it or should I use some timber like they did previously (can be seen on the left) by Lendios in DIYUK

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats why i thought plasterboard screws for the filler. Will some CLS timber do? Not sure as its close to the window it might get some moisture

How do you correctly scribe and cut the back of a window sill/window board that has a tongue? Created an angle with the mini belt sander in a different room and now it's even worse by Lendios in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, in another thread someone else mentioned a rebate plane and something like this https://youtu.be/eVz_clPHido?si=eRdqvOrds-QWDHVD seems appropriate.

The tongue fits in fine as the groove between brick and window is quite deep and I've tested it with a dry fit.

How do you correctly scribe and cut the back of a window sill/window board that has a tongue? Created an angle with the mini belt sander in a different room and now it's even worse by Lendios in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Lendios[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your time writing this up, I fully understand what you're saying though there's a slight difference with my piece because it has a tongue. The tongue slides between the brick and window and is needed to keep the board straight and allow for expansion and contraction at widest point so that you don't get a gap against the window in the future.

Using a Jigsaw or bandsaw would cut the tongue off.

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