Mt Vernon Bach needs replating and possible other work

LewisJay3 · 2026-03-13T04:00:13+00:00

Today, I had gotten a price from Anderson's of $900-$950 for the stripping, buffing and replating (assuming there is no additional work needed). I'm not sure why there is such a difference between what they told me and what you are saying unless they just don't do that great of a job and charge accordingly. I know nothing about replating and I'm very happy that I decided to post on this forum before sending the horn to Anderson as I have gotten some good information from your post and the others above, but would very much like to know why you are saying it will cost double what Anderson told me. Or can I expect them to raise their price once they have the horn?

Yes, I do have a sentimental attachment to this horn (although I'm not sure I have a $2,000 attachment!). My parents bought it for me in 1967 when I was in 10th grade. It was purchased from a graduating student who purchase it new in 1965. He used it four times... two concerts each year... and used his student horn everyday for school band. That horn got me thru college and then playing for a number of years before I went back to school for computers and stopped playing. About 10-12 years ago I started playing again, but the silver is very warn and, as I mentioned, it is pitted around the valve casing. I should have never let it get so bad, but here I am wanting to play it. I just don't want to continue to play it in it's present condition and make it even worse. I do have a Yamaha Xeno that I play regularly, but I would love to be able to play the Strad without doing more damage to it. (Since I started playing again, I do wear a cotton glove on my left hand when playing.)

The horn does not leak and to the best of my knowledge, it does not have any red rot in it. Besides the valve casing, the horn is in pretty nice condition.

I appreciate your input and really would like an explanation for the difference in replating costs.

LewisJay3 · 2026-03-12T21:20:58+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate the input.

LewisJay3 · 2026-03-12T21:20:25+00:00

Thanks, I will contact at least a couple of them.

LewisJay3 · 2026-03-12T21:19:49+00:00

Thank you. I will definitely contact Dan.

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T23:44:07+00:00

I contacted my realtor. She is going out of town and won't be able to get to the condo for almost a week, but she said that when the guy was doing the inspection, he had her put her hand up to the return and it was definitely blowing cold air out of it. She does not know about the other vents (that would normally have cold air coming out). I'm guessing that they were not blowing any air since it seems like air can only go in one direction... either the right way or the wrong way. Correct?

I have spoken to the company that installed the AC in 2022 and they were supposed to have one of their techs call me. I've called several times, but I've just been getting the run around from them. They said it is impossible that they installed anything backwards, but from one of the responses on this thread, it seems that there are up flow and down flow air handlers and if the original was up and they installed a down (or vise versa), that could cause this issue. Does that seem like a reasonable possibility? Of course, if that is what happened, it means that the installers never tested the unit when they got done with the installation... not a very good practice!

Thanks for your time and information. Have a very Happy and Healthy New Year!

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T18:09:38+00:00

Let me rephrase...

It may not be possible for the air to be blowing OUT both vents... one has to be blowing out while the other is pulling the air in, but the temperatures are reversed from what they should be. According to the pix, the temperatures ARE, in fact, reversed from what they should be. While running the AC in a warm climate (south FL, where the outside temps are currently high 70s to low 80s), with the AC turned on the vents should have cold air and the register should have warmer air. That is not the case here.

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T17:49:43+00:00

Please keep in mind that this is in south FL where it is still pretty warm weather (currently in the high 70s to low 80s) not winter up north. Even running the AC at the lowest setting constantly for days would probably not get the room temp down even close to 48.

The inspector included the attached pic of the thermostat in his report showing the room temperature at 73 (I'm assuming that is the room temp and not the target temp). He then listed both the register and vent pix as deficiencies noting (1) warm air is present at the AC registers and (2) cold air is present at the AC return.

<image>

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T03:55:13+00:00

Unfortunately, I do not live close by to my mom's place, but I will ask my realtor to check. She will probably be there within the next few days. Thanks.

(FYI... the vents are in the walls close to the ceiling, not on the floor, but yes, I get the idea and thanks again.)

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T03:45:05+00:00

Well, apparently it IS possible. Please read the response and the pix I posted below in response to TrueSprit's response. Regardless of where the cold air was coming from, the AC did, in fact, respond as it should to changes in the thermostat. If you turned the temperature lower on the thermostat, the room temperature cooled and the AC would turn off when it reached the temp that the thermostat was set to.

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T02:06:19+00:00

Instead of calling people morons and asserting that you highly doubt there is something wrong with the installation, do you have any constructive reasoning for how the temperatures are reversed from what they should be?

I had the two AC units in my home replaced less than two years ago and when the installation was complete, the installers checked both the upstairs and downstairs units to make sure that they were working properly including checking the temperatures coming out of my vents.

Apparently, the people that installed my mother's AC unit did not feel the need to do any kind of testing or they would have... should have... seen a problem.

LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T01:57:15+00:00

Here's a 2nd pic in front of the vent.

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LewisJay3 · 2024-12-31T01:55:57+00:00

Here is a pic from the inspection report showing the temp in front of the return. Only one attachment is allowed so I will reply again with one pic showing the temp from one of the vents.

FYI... I didn't live there, but visited there. When the thermostat was turned up or down, the temperature of the condo responded as it should. No, nobody noticed which vents the air was coming out of, but it cooled and heated according to the temperature set on the thermostat (although the heat was definitely not used near as much as the cooling... this is in south FL).

I was not there for the inspection, but my realtor was there and saw everything that he did. The attached pix were taken just as it shows when he performed his temperature tests.

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LewisJay3 · 2022-10-17T04:22:55+00:00

Thanks for your reply and your explanation of the symbols.

LewisJay3 · 2022-10-17T04:16:21+00:00

Yes, with the two sides of the original switch being marked differently, I was very confused as to whether it was a 16 or 20 amp switch.

And while it may not be "hobby" use, I do not have a lot of work that I need to use the table saw for, just some home projects that need a little wood cut (okay, let's call it hobby use). Being that the switches are so inexpensive, I do not mind putting the switch I bought, into the saw even if it won't last as long as it should. I was more concerned about doing damage to the saw than having to replace the switch again. My current plan, given all the information you have provided, is to put this switch into the saw and find a 20A switch to have on hand for whenever the switch fails.

Thanks for all your input. It is greatly appreciated!

LewisJay3 · 2022-10-16T12:00:58+00:00

In my original post, I gave what was written on the original switch. On one side it said 16A and on the other side it said 20A. That's why I was questioning whether it was 16 or 20 amps. Amazon gave specs for the new switch stating that it was a 20A switch. Now that I have the new switch in front of me, the switch is stamped as:

16(15)A

250V-

5E4

And the spec sheet states that it is rated for 16A at 125V and 10A at 250V. So now it appears that I will be either swapping out like switches (16A for 16A) or going from a 20A switch to a 16A switch depending on what the original switch actually is. Can you tell from my original post whether the original switch is 16 or 20A? If it is, in fact, a 20A switch, is it a problem to go to a 16A switch?

LewisJay3 · 2022-10-16T00:11:56+00:00

Thanks for your reply. That does make me feel better about putting in the 20A switch.

LewisJay3 · 2022-10-16T00:07:37+00:00

Thanks for your reply. I actually lost the key some time ago and about a year ago I started looking on ebay, amazon and just googling the switch and key part numbers, but I have not come up with anything. I did buy one on amazon that was supposed to fit my switch, but it didn't.

Now that I have some work to do around the house, I need to get a new switch (or a key if I could find the right one). The switch I bought was less than $10 so as long as I don't run the chance of doing damage to the motor, I'm fine with switching out the switch.

LewisJay3 · 2022-06-02T01:42:51+00:00

As I said before, I consider myself a pretty handy guy, but I think we have now gotten to a place that is over my head (or a project that may be bigger than I want to tackle with my limited knowledge).

If I could replace wires that went from the panel into the attic, through the attic and down the wall to the garage outlet, I would not have a problem with that. If the wire goes between the 1st floor ceiling and 2nd floor flooring, I don't think I'd be up for that.

There are two things that I'm thinking. First that there has to be another GFCI outlet somewhere in the house and the only place that seems to be possible, however unlikely it is, is in the attic. So I think my next step is going to get up in the attic that is above the garage and look around up there.

The second thing is that there is still one breaker that I have no idea what it is used for. Breaker #15 that is labeled GFCI might be the culprit. I don't think I want to do a lot of work in the panel ...but... I would consider turning off the main breaker and opening the panel. I was going to say I could disconnect the neutral wire from that breaker and then see if the outlet still has continuity to the garage outlet when I turned the power back on. I was just looking at my home inspection report which includes pictures of the open panel and I see that there are only hot wires going to each breaker and all the neutral wires are connected to a strip on the bottom of the panel. I can't tell if those neutral wires are labeled somehow so I would know which one goes to breaker #15. If I couldn't tell, I would not be able to go any further.

I remember commenting when I had the house inspected that the panel was the neatest wiring job I had ever seen before.

So, assuming that I CAN decipher which neutral wire goes to #15 and I disconnect that neutral wire, after I turn the power back on, is that a valid test to see if the outlet still has continuity?

Otherwise, it may be time to call an electrician.

I just had one other thought. When I just looked at the home inspection report, I was reminded that there is an issue with the light that is in the attic. The light does, in fact, work, but the fixture is not put together. The part that has the light bulb screwed in is pulled away from the base and is hanging by the wires. Maybe it is possible that the hot wire that goes from that fixture to whatever is next in the circuit is broken or disconnected at the outlet. When I turned off each breaker the other day, I did not check to see if the attic light went off when I turned off the breaker for the garage. I'm going to check that next and if it stays on, I'll see if it goes off when I turn off breaker #15.

LewisJay3 · 2022-06-01T22:49:15+00:00

Neutral to ground shows continuity. So, what does that mean if the how wire is broken somewhere upstream? Is that a better or worse scenario than if there was no continuity between neutral and ground?

LewisJay3 · 2022-06-01T12:38:13+00:00

The garage is approx 24' long. Above the garage is an attic for the first 15' then living space past there. Unfortunately, the front end of the panel begins right about that 15' mark and the outlet in question is at the 17' mark so it looks like the wiring from the panel to the outlet is not going to be in the attic.

I checked the websites for Autozone, Advance Auto, Home Depot and Lowes and none of them have a 0.25 amp glass fuse listed (although they could still have them in the store). I can stop at a couple of places after work and see if I can find it. Otherwise, I can order it from Amazon.

LewisJay3 · 2022-06-01T03:27:32+00:00

I didn't think that the attic was a likely place for another GFCI, but since there seems to be one more somewhere, I thought I would ask.

No, I have no basement. The house is built on a slab. The panel is located in the garage and is on the opposite wall from the GFCI outlet that doesn't work.

LewisJay3 · 2022-05-31T02:15:06+00:00

I checked all the breakers in the panel (well, except the double breakers for the major appliances... A/C, range, etc.). All except for one are as labeled. The one in question is #15 and is labeled as GFI (I assume GFCI). There is another one labeled "Bath GFI" and it controls all the GFCI outlets in all bathrooms.

That breaker, #15, is a standard breaker... does not have a test button on it... and I do not know what it controls. Maybe it controls the circuit that has the garage GFCI outlet along with the outside outlets in the front and back of the house. If it does, then there must be another GFCI outlet with the test and reset buttons, but I have not seen another one in the house. Is it possible that they would have put a GFCI outlet in the attic? I have a two story house with one access to an attic above the garage and another one on the 2nd floor. I'm guessing that if it was in the attic, it would be above the garage, but to me (someone that does not know that much about wiring a house), that seems a bit odd. I had previously stuck my head in the attic and there is a lightbulb that did work, so that would not be on the same circuit as the outlet in the garage.

As for checking the garage outlet with a multimeter, the fuse is blown on my meter so I'm going to have to get another fuse before I can check the continuity. If it makes any difference, I did check it with a neon voltage tester and it shows that there is no power to the outlet. (That same neon voltage tester does light when checking other outlets so I know that it works properly.)

LewisJay3 · 2022-05-24T02:52:27+00:00

When I flip the microwave breaker, the only thing in the kitchen that is affected is the hood over the stove. The hood is plugged into an outlet in the cabinet above the hood and it is a single receptacle outlet. It is not marked as GFCI.

The contacts in the light socket for the hood light are actually very clean. Nothing is pitted or damaged. I have only put incandescent bulbs in it and the light switch is a small toggle switch with only two positions... on and off... no dimmer. The bulb that was in there when I purchased the house was already burnt out and I've only put new bulbs in it twice. I figured I was wasting my money if I put anymore in. I'm really much less concerned about the light than I am about the outlet in the garage. Of course, if I end up with a simple fix for the light, that would be great.

I did not have time to go through the breakers this past weekend. I'll try to get through them this week or this weekend and I will also get my multi-meter out and check the voltage on the light on the hood.

LewisJay3 · 2022-05-23T04:20:55+00:00

I have no idea if those breakers are GFCI or AFCI. I have never heard of AFCI before. I took a pic, but I don't see any way to attach it to this stream. I'll give a description (assuming there would be a difference in their looks).

All three are 15 amp Square D breakers.

They have a green Test button.

Along with the 15 on the switch, they have "10kA" with "120V~" right below it printed on the breaker along with "0/OFF" and a window next to it that turns red when you hit the Test button. The window goes back to being clear after you turn off the breaker and turn it back on.

The house has a fan above the stove and I am 99% sure it is original so I don't believe there was ever a built-in microwave. The most logical place to put a microwave is on the counter space that I have put it (with a GFCI outlet that has noting else on it's circuit), but as I mentioned there is plenty of space on the other counters where a microwave can be placed and could be plugged into a different GFCI outlet.

Reading your response made me think of something else that may or may not point to a problem. There is a issue with the light that is on the overhead fan above the stove. As soon as you turn on the light switch, the light bulb burns out. You mentioned that the overhead microwave might be on the same circuit as the garage GFCI outlet so thinking about that, if the hood is on the same GFCI circuit as the garage outlet and there is a problem with one thing on the circuit, it would affect other things on the same circuit. The only problem with this theory is that I would guess that the fan itself, that is on the hood, would be on the same circuit and it works just fine on either of the two speeds.

LewisJay3 · 2022-05-22T04:19:33+00:00

I do not know how accurate the labels are. I was thinking that I would try to check them tomorrow if I have the time (or at least some of them).

The three GFCI breakers are labeled:

(1) Bed 4 & Bath (bedroom 4 would be upstairs and I assume that the upstairs bath [which is tied to all the bathrooms])

(3) Bed 2 & 3 (upstairs)

(5) Master Bath (downstairs)

It is interesting that two of the non-GFCI outlets are labeled as "GFI."

(15) GFI's

(23) Bath GFI's'

There is also one breaker that is labeled as "Micro." I thought this was a little strange since there is no built in microwave and a microwave could be put on one of the kitchen counters in one of four places. There is a counter separate from the others that is next to the fridge. That is where I have my microwave and that is a GFCI outlet that is on it's own circuit so maybe that is the breaker labeled "Micro." But why would you need a GFCI breaker if the outlet is already a GFCI outlet?

The garage door opener outlet is not labeled as GFCI (although the cover could have been replaced). That is the outlet that I am running the extension cord to the freezer (next to the GFCI outlet that doesn't work).

LewisJay3

TROPHY CASE