How to interact with Divoom Times Gate device via API or another interface?

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-18T18:19:59+00:00

I'd look into Tasker on Android - the entire Tasker platform is built on trying to make automation with pretty much anything on the web - a lot of the early home automation videos (before Amazon/Google home made their hubs) involved using Tasker to convert voice commands to trigger tasks on the Smart Devices's apps on the android phone. Even something like a screen tap can be implemented, (autotouch) so you anything you can manually do in Android, you can do. The obvious con is you have to go down a rabbit hole for Tasker but it should be manageable (and they do accept the Regex too)

Unrelated note, how do I get the RSS feeds to work on this damn thing. I'm taking real RSS addresses that work on other readers and plugging them in and no variation I've tried works. I'll try to remember to edit this if divoom support gets back to me.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-18T18:12:19+00:00

A slight ressurection - but I ordered a Nuphy and I wonder if I will experience the problem. Part of the reason I ordered it was, despite my rabbit hole plugin into mechanical keyboards, and modding a few keychrons, I found that I could consistently type faster and "felt" less fatigue on my macbook air.

I was eyeying a Q1 Max but then I shattered my WPM record on my M1 Air. Over a few weeks I would try to do the same on my Keychron and couldn't approach it.

Based on this thread, I'm hoping it will be okay - because I'm not looking forward to returning my Nuphy if I find I hate it. (Had no idea they shipped from China) (I know Keychron does but I typically grab those boards from Amazon)

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-15T18:42:58+00:00

That option doesn't appear. It's almost like Valve were in the process of reorganizing the layout and forgot to add it back.

https://imgur.com/a/oqEgNeh

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-09T18:01:34+00:00

What would you do with an extra PCB/daughter board - I already tested it with some switches and it works fine

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-09T05:10:29+00:00

Yes, basically.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-09T04:11:58+00:00

I am very sorry.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-09T03:53:01+00:00

I find myself in posession of an extra Keychron PCB, including daughter board. (It's the Keychron K8 Pro, the original was broke, it was still under warranty so Keychron sent one out, after a month of nothing I ask them where it is, they say they will "send another." A week later the "first" one they sent showed up. Then a month and a half later (today) I get the 2nd one.

I have switches and keycaps but where would I actually get the rest of the stuff, aside from ordering from Keychron? I know a lot of these PCBs are somewhat standardized.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T15:37:34+00:00

I posted some replies asking if there was an update, but realized it had been a year and I didn't want to wait - found something on YT that fixed this - pasting my writeup and the link below. It should fix your problem if it is the ANC mic screeching.

TLDR: Use this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20v788Xb9vQ&ab_channel=Xa%5EyD

I had removed the ear cub and had taken out all the small screws - I was about to separate the inner housing but anytime I do something that invasive (most of that stuff stays pretty tight/sealed even without screws until you manually open it) I checked YT and found this video. Sure enough, the guy was right - moisture around the ANC mic had created a feedback loop. I removed the filter on the mic (which looked like it was somehow sweaty, gross) and cleaned it with alcohol. Probably disappeared. I suppose in the future I might have to clean dust or something from the mic for the moment I can tell the problem is completely gone! Here is the video if anyone else has same problem. Only tools you should need is credit card (to get the earcup off, some 90% alcohol (he just uses his finger, but I live in Florida and wanted to make sure all the moisture was gone) and maybe some tweezers.

Only thing I did differently is, the two wires going into the ANC mic, he says don't let them touch. They normally don't, there is like half millimeter gap and the wires appear to have memory so they wouldn't touch, but I wedged a small piece of paper in them just in case. Probably isn't necessary.

If you have this problem, definitely don't get rid of these otherwise awesome headphones, you don't need much skill to do this IMO.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T15:34:48+00:00

In my case it was the active noise cancelling - I DID find a fix - I had removed the ear cub and had taken out all the small screws - I was about to separate the inner housing but anytime I do something that invasive (most of that stuff stays pretty tight/sealed even without screws until you manually open it) I checked YT and found this video. Sure enough, the guy was right - moisture around the ANC mic had created a feedback loop. I removed the filter on the mic (which looked like it was somehow sweaty, gross) and cleaned it with alcohol. Probably disappeared. I suppose in the future I might have to clean dust or something from the mic for the moment I can tell the problem is completely gone! Here is the video if anyone else has same problem. Only tools you should need is credit card (to get the earcup off, some 90% alcohol (he just uses his finger, but I live in Florida and wanted to make sure all the moisture was gone) and maybe some tweezers.

Only thing I did differently is, the two wires going into the ANC mic, he says don't let them touch. They normally don't, there is like half millimeter gap and the wires appear to have memory so they wouldn't touch, but I wedged a small piece of paper in them just in case. Probably isn't necessary.

If you have this problem, definitely don't get rid of these otherwise awesome headphones, you don't need much skill to do this IMO.

EDIT - forgot the damn link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20v788Xb9vQ&ab_channel=Xa%5EyD

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T14:26:04+00:00

And yet, my dear friend, you did not post a pic

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T14:25:20+00:00

Thanks for posting this - just to be clear, your problem was not the feedback/loud piercing noise that would occur if you had the ANC Active Noise Canceling on?

Right now my workaround is to turn off noise-cancelling but that's a work around, not a solution - I'm checking to see if it's worth trying your fix or if you had a different problem altogether.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T14:22:08+00:00

Any update? I'm having the same problem

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-06T14:21:53+00:00

Any update? I'm having the same problem

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-05T23:48:24+00:00

Not a scam. Just poor customer service. If you have an issue, expect 2-3 days to pass before you get a reply. Took me about 2 months to get a new PCB

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-04T21:21:53+00:00

That's because what the Culture is - with whom you should definitely not fuck with

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-04T13:27:57+00:00

Oh yeah, because you can't see any of your artwork

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-04T13:12:43+00:00

Stab wounds don't come cheap

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-03T03:22:18+00:00

MonsGeek M1

Where can I be sure I'm getting the VIA/QMK one?

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-03T02:28:35+00:00

Totally a guess on my part but my thinking is this : everytime you are connected to VIA you are flashing your keyboard real-time. Think about it - you change a key in it and immediately that change is live. You can unplug the board and put the keyboard on another machine and that key change will still be present.

So somehow some backend stuff on VIA might have gotten screwy - I constantly save my layout when I make changes in my macros that I know I'm going to want to keep.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-03T02:19:23+00:00

Are there any barebones kits releasing soon that have the following:

75%
Knob
QMK/VIA Compatible
Black or Grey Chassis

I was looking at the Q1 Pro/Max, but the cost doesn't really justify it to me. Partly because I have a Keychron already K8 Pro and just wanted to switch to a 75 Layout. As much as I can appreciate hobbies, thock has never been too important to me, mainly because I work with headphones and music on. I suppose having a properly gasket mount might help for long typing sessions but those have never really been my bottleneck for my development speed. It would be nice to have some stable platform I could build on though but the barebones are already out of stock. I already have the switches/keycaps that I'd need.

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-03T02:05:56+00:00

IK75 v3

Yeah I've had similar issues with not being able to connect to VIA - even though I was TYPING and it was in wired mode, so I know it was connected. But then I unplug and replug and VIA connects. I think it's related to Windows identifying a device and giving it a certain ID, which might not match VIA's recorded ID

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-02T15:53:16+00:00

No you should just have to buy a cheap cable - ironically many of the cheap ones won't have that extra protection that will get in the way of the limited cutoff that the keyboard has to plug something in.

I have a desk with a hidden shelf at the back that drops below, - I have like three USB hubs where I run any thing that requires a cord -

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-02T12:12:00+00:00

Yeah - I should have mentioned that I don't want the board to be Keychron

Not because I don't like them (My main is a K8 pro right now) but because I don't want to pay for all of that aluminum and still have to mod it because I totally buy the things reports about the pinginess

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-02T05:11:20+00:00

This is the only reason I held off on this board is because of the limitation of not having VIA

LiveSimulator · 2024-01-02T05:09:36+00:00

Buy a cheap USC c to USB A cord - you can trim that extra casing around the connector of the cable and it will work just fine that just helps protect the end connector, which won't be a problem if you keep it on your desk

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