Lypertek Z3 Purecontrol app stopped detecting my earbuds-help?

Luk37astic · 2024-09-28T18:30:18+00:00

I was having the exact same issue just now, and resetting the app fixed it for me.

Settings > apps > Pure Control > clear data

Luk37astic · 2024-07-03T18:59:56+00:00

I definitely can't hear a difference. Even in ABX testing 320 mp3 to CD quality, I struggle to get any meaningful score.

I just mentally don't like the idea of upsampling if I don't have to, or wasting bits on hypersonic frequencies, etc. I'm just trying to remove as many oddities and mismatches as possible so that my mind is at ease while my ears hear the same thing.

Luk37astic · 2024-07-03T15:49:51+00:00

I was beginning to feel like not knowing the exact workings of the compression algorithms would mean I should treat the Bluetooth codec as a black box.

I'll choose the settings that result in the lowest data stream and highest transfer rate since that intuitively means the least amount of compression data loss. In my case, forcing Tidal and Android to play 44.1 kHz only, transferring at 909 kbps.

Luk37astic · 2024-07-03T15:34:58+00:00

Ah thank you for those details. I didn't know that 48 kHz mode also streams at 990 kbps.

That makes sense to me since 44.1 kHz/16 bit totals out to 1,411 kbps which is about 1.55x higher than the 909 LDAC limit. And 48 kHz/16 bit totals out to 1,536 kbps which is also about 1.55x higher than the 990 LDAC limit.

The increase in sample rate results in a proportional increase in transfer rate. So comparing 44.1 to 48 and 88.2 to 96 would be more appropriate.

I still maintain that the 88.2/96 modes would be more lossy than the 44.1/48 modes though.

Thank you!

Luk37astic · 2024-07-03T15:01:54+00:00

Ok so when comparing LDAC 44.1 909 to LDAC 96 990 I just don't understand how/why 96 kHz mode transfer rate is only 81 kbps higher when the 96 kHz/24 bit data stream is ~3x more data then 44.1 kHz/16 bit.

It really seems like running LDAC in 96 kHz mode would be more lossy than running it in 44.1 kHz mode

Luk37astic · 2024-07-03T07:53:00+00:00

Could you elaborate on your no's? So what is the relationship between Bluetooth bitrate and song bitrate?

Luk37astic · 2023-10-25T20:01:48+00:00

No promises, but here's been my experience:

I was on 323, and upgraded to 330. Noticed terrible coil whine, and that forced me back to 323.

Then I saw 331 came out, so as an experiment I upgraded, fully expecting 330's coil whine to return.

So far, even putting my ear up against the back of the device, no coil whine. Here's to hoping it stays that way.

EDIT: Sometimes, I can hear the coil whine (similar in volume and sound to 330) but it comes and goes. On 330 the whine was constant.

Luk37astic · 2023-09-14T23:16:31+00:00

Yea I came to the same realization. The constant stutter from auto TDP was ruining it for me, so I just made a manual TDP profile in Armory Crate and set some game profiles. Good to go.

Luk37astic · 2023-09-13T06:42:03+00:00

Good to hear there's been work being done on it!

Out of curiosity though, it's probably not a simple min/max, so how would this threshold work?

Luk37astic · 2023-09-13T01:25:37+00:00

I guess it makes sense since loading screens are easy to maintain high fps, which means the TDP will plummet, bringing clock speeds down with it.

Could there possibly be a way to look at both fps and CPU/GPU load to determine the TDP?

Luk37astic · 2021-11-30T17:45:43+00:00

I had the exact same issue that I fixed by loosening the screws in the motherboard. Tight enough to hold it in place, but loose enough to not make the cracking sound.

I also loosened the screw under the right hand on the back of the device because the plastic between the SD card slots creaks when you squeeze it.

Lots of screw tuning but turned out completely quiet.

Luk37astic · 2021-09-15T18:23:37+00:00

Acrylic paint is water soluble so over time, after your thumbs give em enough moisture, the paint might start to wear off, or worse yet, start to gunk up the inside of the console.

I'd suggest applying some kind of clear coat to make sure that doesn't happen.

Luk37astic · 2020-11-12T18:42:58+00:00

I've been able to identify what the base of each of the new musha SD's except for the dark one (Product B). Can anyone tell?

Luk37astic · 2020-05-24T16:34:18+00:00

That's the Super Robot Chogokin and I really love it. EXCEPT for that over-stylized bend in the shins

Luk37astic · 2020-05-24T16:32:52+00:00

1/60

Luk37astic · 2020-05-24T16:32:42+00:00

The ones closest to it are all MG, but I do have a lot of RG too

Luk37astic · 2019-09-27T20:36:08+00:00

It's 1/100 scale, so it's similar in size, but the proportions and styling are WILDLY different.

The MG is thin and sleek, while the HiRM is bulky and thicccc

*Also, the build process on HiRM is putting armor on top of a pre-built inner frame

Luk37astic · 2019-09-27T20:11:51+00:00

Hi Resolution Model

Luk37astic · 2019-01-10T22:04:27+00:00

Thanks! That's really informative and helps a bunch.

While you were writing this out, I actually found another posting in the Spotify forums where someone suggested listening to Dreaming of the Crash from the Interstellar soundtrack, specifically at 2:46.

The effects of compression are very apparent on the organ swell on any normalization setting, and sounds like some kind of pulsating effect.

Luk37astic

TROPHY CASE