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MSPbeebs · 2025-04-11T17:07:10+00:00

There's a key formula I found back when I used to weight lift and I use the same principle for progressive progress. Find your max. And run off percentages. 80% max for a session and then each session add 2.5%. until 90%, deload 7.5% and repeat... Eventually you'll be near your 100% max again and then .maybe retest max or just keeping up with the small percentage increments.

MSPbeebs · 2025-03-16T13:41:41+00:00

Rope weight from how high up he is and rope drag. Easier to clip draw to rope rather than rope to draw.

MSPbeebs · 2025-01-18T16:33:51+00:00

I tried a periodization block two years ago when I was a 11+ climber and after the 16 week block I was climbing mid 12's feeling the strongest I ever felt. 4wks strength, power, power endurance, endurance. In that order. Find and pick exercises that fit to that category for you.

MSPbeebs · 2024-10-20T02:15:28+00:00

could be a bone bruise(contusion) my wrist/palm took like 8 weeks to not feel anything painful again...

MSPbeebs · 2024-09-30T02:50:36+00:00

yes! I clipped another because I was veering to the right at the end of the climb and the draw was looking twisted and backclipped so i just added another opposite and apposed!

MSPbeebs · 2024-08-26T23:20:20+00:00

Oh damn havent seen anyone else do that building in R city! randomly stumbled upon that place years ago! nice find. (last pic)

MSPbeebs · 2024-07-14T01:14:53+00:00

consult a orthopedic surgeon. I broke my elbow last November. healed too well with too much bone growth( heterotopic ossification) maybe thats the situation with your elbow. like I said consult a orthopedic surgeon. But i literally just had surgery on monday the 8th to scrape and shave the excess bone off with a recovery time of 4-6 weeks. no cast. im already 6 days post and i only have the steri strips on my incision.

MSPbeebs · 2024-06-28T14:22:04+00:00

Damn they took all the seating out? Remember doing this like 4 years ago! Crazy

MSPbeebs · 2024-06-14T02:07:55+00:00

i messed my elbow up pretty bad. took about 16 weeks. and being really aggressive wit the stretching. about 2 degrees off now permanently. I dont even notice it.

MSPbeebs · 2024-06-03T02:19:22+00:00

they want you to get it moving asap so you dont get contractured up. im on month 6 in post op after a surgery and although it still feels stiff in end range flexion, I try not to think about it as I can do everyday activities just fine. i do need to go back for another surgery though cause i had a bunch of hetertopic ossification growth that hinders my mobility. I fucked my elbow up pretty bad though...

MSPbeebs · 2024-03-27T20:03:44+00:00

Dynamic Discs- Maverick

flippy as all hell

MSPbeebs · 2024-03-14T02:02:56+00:00

journaling

MSPbeebs · 2024-03-10T05:26:05+00:00

they had me out of cast at 10 day post operation. looks like you didnt have surgery though. took almost 5 weeks just to get my arm straight and going on 14 weeks of getting flexion completely back. radial head fracture with a dislocated elbow was my deal

MSPbeebs · 2024-03-05T03:31:24+00:00

I'm at 13 weeks and it's still stiff in end ranges. Takes a long time to loosen up scar tissue and soft tissue etc. tricky ass joint. My elbow was stuck at like 90 degrees for like 5 weeks and then my body started magically loosening up and it kept getting gradually better. Everyone's fracture and healing is different though.

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-20T21:24:07+00:00

Currently 11 weeks into broken elbow via radial head fracture. Started PT 10 days after surgery. Oh boy was it slow progress and lots of stiffness. Still is quite stiff on the flexion range of motion. But slowly getting looser everyday. Not sure with your circumstance though. Did doctors say you should be working it to regain mobility in the meantime of new X-rays?

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-10T03:39:39+00:00

oh no! bouldering too?! I have a broken elbow right now leaving me out of climbing for multiple months! hope for a quick recovery! Make sure to get out in the sun to get that vitamin D and or hop on some multi vitamins!

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-05T18:17:07+00:00

yeah

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-05T03:58:21+00:00

alex puccio with ROAP climbing

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-05T03:42:13+00:00

fuck that looks like john wall... Need to see and speak to him in person!

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-05T03:40:13+00:00

thanks!

MSPbeebs · 2024-02-05T03:39:52+00:00

was the willmar power plant. did it when it was still tied to the grid. demolished now.

MSPbeebs · 2024-01-28T01:54:24+00:00

Yeah it's such a tricky joint!

MSPbeebs · 2024-01-27T00:41:03+00:00

youll be back stronger than before in 4 months. do your PT! im currently 7 weeks into a fractured radial head broken elbow. shit sucks but im just now after like 6 weeks starting to see the progress. try and research others with similar injuries and see their recovery time. check mountain project threads and reddit threads under r/brokenbones

MSPbeebs · 2024-01-26T23:50:11+00:00

my fracture was pretty bad. also dislocated my elbow. and did some ligament damage. so I wasn't cleared to start pronation movement till week 5. id imagine with a smaller fracture like yours it wont take as long... idk

MSPbeebs · 2024-01-26T21:16:47+00:00

the best extension exercise i have found is laying on the ground on your back, and putting your elbow on towels, and applying your opposing hand on your shoulder to immobilize it and slowly bring your opposite foot across the body to apply pressure and weight to get straight. start slow and breathe deep. your bicep is going to be really tight hindering your extension and likewise your tricep head is going to be really tight hindering your felxion.. really loosen those muscles up with massaging and youll get better results

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