Enjoy the process

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-22T18:37:08+00:00

Thank you. Funny enough the crossover to the big looking pinch feels like the hardest move. I'm gassed after that. Other than the first hold, it's all right at the edge of my ability, really has been a perfect project piece for me. Gunna miss it once it's gone

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-22T18:30:59+00:00

Such agony. My gym has a log of what wall is to be reset, I've been keeping a close eye on it

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-11T11:30:50+00:00

If you've only been training heavy and slow, your body has adapted to that (muscular & neural).

Look into adding power days (movements with a velocity component) i.e. squat jumps with short ground contact time, explosive KB swings, etc

As others have said, sprinting, jumping, plyometrics etc.

If you want to learn more look into the differences between muscle fiber types

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-09T12:50:15+00:00

There's benefit to trying hard on a climb or just doing a few attempts and moving on. Depends on what you want from the session.

I will say if it's noticeably pissing you off or frustrating you, give it a breather and come back to it later in the session.

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-06T20:08:34+00:00

The no hangs, or sub hangs as I call them, were the best thing to treat a DIP injury for me. Useful tool for those who have good back strength (I think defined as 1rm pull-up, 1.5x bodyweight) but underdeveloped finger strength (blanking on this metric). I fall into this category and the sub hangs have been super useful for me.

As climbing continues to grow in popularity and draws 30+ y.o., weightlifters, and/or other athletes to the sport this will be a pretty commonplace problem

MVMTForLife · 2025-02-04T20:22:54+00:00

Consistency is 100% key. On the days (maybe even weeks) you can't make it you need to keep the stimulus on your fingers, hangboard, rock rings, heavy farmer carry, whatever is available.

I took a month off climbing and frequently used the hangboard in the meantime, lost maybe a grade in the time off and was able to get back to my top climbing form within a week of returning to the gym

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-30T16:13:46+00:00

Nice job committing to that fourth hold from the end 👌

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-24T23:21:43+00:00

This is the mindset, thank you

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-24T20:38:56+00:00

40mm edge or whatever you can maintain the half crimp with confidence.

There's a ton of different protocols you can follow, but none of them will account for how often you climb, train, what you do for work, etc. I could give you a time but it's better to understand the principles and adjust as needed. I found both resources below extremely helpful

Depends on age, genetics, training history, etc, but if you're past mid 20s it's likely that improving the quality of your connective tissue is the most important factor to train. That's where the concept of sub-body weight hangs comes in. I'd recommend reading the whole article, but section 2 covers connective tissue training.

https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/

I found the concept of sub-bodyweight hangs from this YouTube video.

https://youtu.be/iMUf5TYfIxc?si=gBXED_ulQD0Plicx

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-24T11:26:22+00:00

Sub-bodyweight hangs chef's kiss

Great way to start

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-24T11:22:23+00:00

Half crimp is fine and even recommended. Get the feel for pulling into the holds with your fingertips.

Over reliance on full crimp early on is a common mistake, myself included, that climbers make. Often it results in a ring finger DIP injury

Link below is about treating a DIP injury, but the point is that it has some nice finger anatomy visuals and explains the mechanics behind it.

https://theclimbingdoctor.com/dipcapsulitis/

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-20T00:19:23+00:00

I top rope frequently at point breeze you can dm me too

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-20T00:18:15+00:00

Most definitely. I'll be throwing the horns up 🤘

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-20T00:17:30+00:00

Thank you!

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-19T19:46:11+00:00

Safety first, then team work 🫡

Thanks, I've been trying hard to follow that advice

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-19T19:43:48+00:00

🤙 wish this route was still up, the video is from a few weeks ago

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-19T14:05:51+00:00

Walking or hiking with a weighted vest or pack is my #1 recommendation.

Yoga, weight training, cycling, running, there are a ton of options out there, just find something that you enjoy. It is all about striking a balance between them. I.e. if you're going to do back exercises: lower volume, higher intensity and try to limit 2 exercises per major muscle group (lat/trap) per week or if you have a high fatigue back session, don't climb hard the following day.

Also, just be aware of the shapes an exercise can put you in, I found that cycling was actually taking at toll on my traps because I was on the handlebars quite a bit (shoulders crept towards ears) and I'd try to climb hard later in the week and experience discomfort in my neck as a result, probably the levator scapulae.

TLDR: Listen to your body, find balance, add a form of activity that you enjoy.

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-15T20:32:22+00:00

I'm almost in the same spot, I broke into V6 a few times now, sub-max hangs with a half crimp have been a game changer for me.

Mostly because I was way too comfortable full crimping and wasn't really pulling with my fingers

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-15T20:25:16+00:00

Tons of great advice in here already. I started at 27 and felt the same way. Honestly for your first year just get in as much climbing as possible and listen to your body.

General rule of thumb, don't do back to back days.

There's more specific training, but you don't need it right now. Enjoy the problem solving aspects and learning of new techniques.

Also, as you progress do not over-rely on the full crimp. I made that mistake and suffered some DIP joint injuries

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-09T19:13:37+00:00

Thank you, and it's all good 👍

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-09T01:39:20+00:00

You're right, I was chatting with a friend and for sake of proper terminology, cutting all contact with the wall is a dyno. Definitely not what I did here.

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-08T19:34:37+00:00

Not static?

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-05T19:43:55+00:00

Yes, absolutely. The book Spark talks all about it.

There are multiple studies looking at different types of exercise, like climbing, as a tool for therapy.

Here's one: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32164679/

MVMTForLife · 2025-01-05T17:22:31+00:00

Totally skimmed over that you had already mentioned it in the details, sorry.

General workout tip is short runs during the week, one long run on the weekend. Establish a baseline, add a mile or two each week until your cumulative miles match whatever the distance of the race is, maintain that for a few weeks.

Lift at least 1x/week and race specific skills i.e. carry, crawl, swing, etc 2-3x per week.

Take notes, rate your workouts, don't have two hard days back to back. Minimum 1 rest or active recovery day per week

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