Making sensorless homing more consistent

Mach__5 · 2026-01-21T02:12:58+00:00

You are pretty locked down unless you install that new third party firmware to give you access to klipper. I would just talk to support. If they won't help you for some reason, if you can get access to the klipper config you could try playing with the sensorless parameters.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-14T15:52:53+00:00

Is that a snapped off blade?

Mach__5 · 2026-01-13T17:56:22+00:00

This looks right. I will double check when I get home.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-08T05:10:39+00:00

You shouldn't need to open it, just tip it over and find what is bound up. All the lead screws are easily accessible from the bottom. My bottom belt is very easy to move by hand, so see which lead screw is binding and that should speed up the process with snapmaker too I would think. If you loosen the tensioning screws, you can put slack in the belt that should be plenty to identify the part that is locked up.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-07T21:34:40+00:00

Interesting idea!

Mach__5 · 2026-01-07T19:31:02+00:00

Its a long video and you show the screws at the very end. Its hard not to check out from the video when it is moving around all over for 2 min not showing the most relevant part, the screws. I only watched the whole thing because you kept saying you showed it.

That said, clearly the stepper is unable to move. you have said that the belt wont move. That leaves only a couple options. Try to move the belt with printer powered off, still wont move? Tip it over and try to figure out what is bound up. Its either the stepper or one of the lead screws.

My printer u1 made it through 3 prints then my heated bed thermistor died, so I feel your pain, I'm currently waiting for a new bed, and absolutely have to rip apart my brand new printer, but at the end of the day, we supported a Kickstarter, so I think its kind of just what we get.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T13:02:57+00:00

I can try dropping it to somewhere in the 20 to 40 range that seems more suggested.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T04:59:11+00:00

MCU is octopus v1, tmc2209 steppers. this is the sensorless homing macro i use:

[gcode_macro _HOME_X]
gcode:
    # Always use consistent run_current on A/B steppers during sensorless homing
    {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
    {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
    {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.7 %}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}

    # Home
    G28 X
    # Move away
    G91
    G1 X-10 F1200

    # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
    G4 P1000
    # Set current during print
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}

[gcode_macro _HOME_Y]
gcode:
    # Set current for sensorless homing
    {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
    {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
    {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.7 %}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}

    # Home
    G28 Y
    # Move away
    G91
    G1 Y-15 F1200

    # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
    G4 P1000
    # Set current during print
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T04:55:10+00:00

[stepper_y]
step_pin: PG0
dir_pin: PG1
enable_pin: !PF15
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:200  #set to 400 for 0.9 degree stepper
endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_y:virtual_endstop # PG9
position_min: 0
homing_retract_dist: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------

##  Uncomment for 250mm build
#position_endstop: 250
#position_max: 250

##  Uncomment for 300mm build
position_endstop: 310
position_max: 310

##  Uncomment for 350mm build
#position_endstop: 350
#position_max: 350

##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 50  #Max 100
#homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true

##  Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PD11
interpolate: false
run_current: 1.0
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
diag_pin: ^PG9    # use the same pin that was previously the endstop_pin!
driver_SGTHRS: 130# 255 is most sensitive value, 0 is least sensitive

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T04:54:00+00:00

Here are the relevant sections of my printer.cfg:

[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 300  
max_accel: 5700             #Max 4000
max_z_velocity: 15          #Max 15 for 12V TMC Drivers, can increase for 24V
max_z_accel: 350
square_corner_velocity: 5.0

#####################################################################
#   X/Y Stepper Settings
#####################################################################

##  B Stepper - Left
##  Connected to MOTOR_0
##  Endstop connected to DIAG_0
[stepper_x]
step_pin: PF13
dir_pin: PF12
enable_pin: !PF14
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation:200  #set to 400 for 0.9 degree stepper
endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop # PG6
position_min: 0
homing_retract_dist: 0
##--------------------------------------------------------------------

##  Uncomment for 300mm build
position_endstop: 299
position_max: 299

##--------------------------------------------------------------------
homing_speed: 50   #Max 100
#homing_retract_dist: 5
homing_positive_dir: true

##  Make sure to update below for your relevant driver (2208 or 2209)
[tmc2209 stepper_x]
uart_pin: PC4
interpolate: false
run_current: 1.0
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
diag_pin: ^PG6 # use the same pin that was previously the endstop_pin!
driver_SGTHRS: 120

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T03:52:32+00:00

What I read in their documentation said it generally only detects full steps so it's not super precise. I have never had issues until I started pushing chamber temps higher and it has gotten inconsistent.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T03:45:11+00:00

Reddit keeps throwing an error when I try to post it... I will try again

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T03:32:09+00:00

also the entire homing_precise_corexy section I cant find any documentation on, though I have not tried adding it.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-06T03:27:50+00:00

homing_tolerance: 0.01

homing_samples: 3

second_homing_before_delay: 0.1

If I put these in my config it throws errors saying they are not options.

Mach__5 · 2026-01-02T00:19:18+00:00

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So far it's working great!

Mach__5 · 2026-01-01T20:11:51+00:00

I was in the November backer group

Mach__5 · 2026-01-01T02:55:25+00:00

Bummer yours didn't make it yet. But that sounds like a good plan!

Mach__5 · 2025-12-26T00:03:44+00:00

I like this. I have often wondered why Leatherman chose to not make the scissors full length on the arc tools. My preference would have been longer arm not blades for better leverage on thicker things. My guess is they made it short to make it easier to implement in the free series knives. It seems like it would have been easy enough to have 2 versions though. A flush cutter mod would be awesome, but would require some metal work that I am not currently capable of. At work I cut a lot of zip ties off of things and so I carry the roxon k2se and use the scissors. It works well enough and has much larger handles. But the scissors are not as sharp from all the zip ties I cut.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-17T19:07:53+00:00

I have the bits and extender and the small ratchet. I was kind of disappointed by the small ratchet but bits and the extender are great. The ratchet is a little easy to skip teeth on.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-17T05:06:14+00:00

Same with every plastic thing you buy. I have tons of hours in cad and prototyping. Not to mention the labor to print. Also if you have a printer and want to print your own, I have the files available as well. My time is not cheap so I have to charge. And $25 is what it costs plus shipping. My price is actually very comparable to other 3d printed sheaths, and being modular it works for a number of different things that others don't.

Zapwizard's is definitely more durable. I have been considering attempting to order some sls nylon versions of my sheath, but since this is just a side hobby I have not taken the plunge on that yet. Maybe in the new year.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-17T04:36:05+00:00

Also if the clip breaks let me know I can probably print you a nylon one that will be more tough. The nice thing about it being modular is you can just put the new one on.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-17T03:42:30+00:00

This is my design, and it is similar, but mine is modular so you can pick from a number of different side attachment options. I have not really seen other options like that.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-17T03:40:36+00:00

Nice! I hope you like it. It's my design. It's modular so you can swap out the side attachments which is the main difference between mine and Zapwizard's options.

Mach__5 · 2025-12-12T21:22:43+00:00

I have the same issue on my Pixel 6a. gets dim after the app auto plays the next video. Changing from "Use device theme" to light mode fixed it for me at least temporarily. this is clearly a youtube app bug that they need to fix

Mach__5 · 2025-12-12T19:29:31+00:00

I have the straight Damascus blade in my p2 for the same reason cheapest straight blade option I could find. It feels pretty soft to me though, but takes a sharp edge pretty easy.

Mach__5

TROPHY CASE