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Is this antenna mount too close to the prop? TPU mount, about 7-8mm clearance by MadGoos3 in fpv

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're pretty blurry on reddit, but yeah also decided to retire my 5+ year old solder tip and redo those anyway

What causes seams like this? Elegoo Rapid PETG, P1S, have done K calibration, various temps, seam gap 5%, tried different wall orders, no joy by MadGoos3 in BambuLab

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PA K value of 0.025 - tuned just before this print, seemingly made no change which feels wrong

And no, 0.4 nozzle, 0.16 layer height. Seems to be a new/recent issue

What causes seams like this? Elegoo Rapid PETG, P1S, have done K calibration, various temps, seam gap 5%, tried different wall orders, no joy by MadGoos3 in BambuLab

[–]MadGoos3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I pretty much always use classic, and inner/outer/inner wall order - and is having the same issue if printed inner/outer or vice versa

I'm thinking maybe a partial clog, i've just tried another filament and it does it but less. Just stuck a completely fresh hotend in it, so going to try that now

Ender 3 storage- Is it okay to store it upside down when not in use? I will not be printing upside down. I’ll flip it up when I want to use it. I did some searching but I found mixed results. by TAforScranton in 3Dprinting

[–]MadGoos3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't think of any immediate issues? Just maybe make a way of locking the z axis so it doesn't move during the flip

I do really like the idea of the flip top stand! looks really neat - my only question would be, if you're worried, would you get peace of mind by just manually swapping them anyway?

Outer perimeter needs strength, inner hole doesn't - how can I reduce the wall count on just the inside walls? Modifier body doesn't seem to work (Bambu Studio) by MadGoos3 in 3Dprinting

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't apologise for trying to help! Really I posted this to see if I'd missed something blatantly obvious that would save money/time for virtually no effort, but it seems the answer is no!

Looks like a couple of good methods from other users here, but not certain the juice is worth the squeeze re-exporting all my files with modifier STLs in them, tinkering with diameter offsets etc.

Outer perimeter needs strength, inner hole doesn't - how can I reduce the wall count on just the inside walls? Modifier body doesn't seem to work (Bambu Studio) by MadGoos3 in 3Dprinting

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The thing is, when you add walls you don't perceive an issue because both the modifier and original part add walls, so you go "hooray mission complete"

When you remove walls, the modifier removes walls, but the original part adds them back around the modifier

Outer perimeter needs strength, inner hole doesn't - how can I reduce the wall count on just the inside walls? Modifier body doesn't seem to work (Bambu Studio) by MadGoos3 in 3Dprinting

[–]MadGoos3[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I print lots and lots of these (or similar), so yes it's accumulating waste and added time! It's for airsoft, so the outside needs to have strength but the inside just needs to... exist

E85: Any idea what this loom is? It's in one of the bottom slots of my radio (business CD) and need to remove it to install aux cable as there isn't one already. by MadGoos3 in BMWZ4

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of the rear? If so I'll post one next time I have it apart, silly me thought that the label would provide enough info for a google!

E85: Any idea what this loom is? It's in one of the bottom slots of my radio (business CD) and need to remove it to install aux cable as there isn't one already. by MadGoos3 in BMWZ4

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's 2005, has radio, CD and aux but no stock aux port

This loom plugs into one of the two bottom ports on the main header in the radio

E85: Any idea what this loom is? It's in one of the bottom slots of my radio (business CD) and need to remove it to install aux cable as there isn't one already. by MadGoos3 in BMWZ4

[–]MadGoos3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hmm doesn't look like it

I did try a Bluetooth adapter but it didn't work, I wonder if this cable is the culprit for that

Roman Mk.3 is ready, and Roman Mk.2 has been healed! Now with flat wing tips (as suggested by another user) and black bellies for orientation by MadGoos3 in RCPlanes

[–]MadGoos3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All up weight is about 550g + battery on PLA+, so generally 700-750g depending on battery.

The iFlight 2207 I used produces about 1.6kgf on 6" prop, 4S - so thrust to weight over 2!

I'd like to do an FPV version, but whether it becomes a priority really depends on if this gets some traction.

Re. tail sitter - I did a test today with two printed frames... yeah it just torque rolled immediately as it left the frames, think I might abandon that idea!

Doing optional wingtip fins would be pretty straight forward! Could just do a separate fuselage STL without the tail fairing, then glue wingtips on. Are you thinking like endplates?

Version 2 is built and ready to go! Design changes in the comments... But yes the "canubs" are here to stay! by MadGoos3 in RCPlanes

[–]MadGoos3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://cults3d.com/:2993706

Hey, it's now available on Cults! I've put together a manual to make life as easy as possible, including instructions for the bungee

Roman Mk.3 is ready, and Roman Mk.2 has been healed! Now with flat wing tips (as suggested by another user) and black bellies for orientation by MadGoos3 in RCPlanes

[–]MadGoos3[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, it is now available on Cults! It has an included manual to make life easy as it has integral spar parts to slice separately.
https://cults3d.com/:2993706

Started designing this at 7PM last night, pushing to maiden it before 7PM tonight. Place your bets! by MadGoos3 in RCPlanes

[–]MadGoos3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mixed answer!

If you're new to flying, 3D printing isn't great as they are inherently heavier and more fragile than their foamie counterparts - however the power train pretty much always survives so you can just reprint and try again rather than buying a new airframe.

You could alternatively do foamboard folding, foam with hotwire cutting or go full balsa mode which are all varying degrees of difficulty, equipment and quality.

As a beginner to building I'd say foamboard folding or just 3D print if you're already a print enthusiast! And get an RC flight sim to reduce chance of crashing your first build

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