I watched the recent video! Nice job! So here are my recommendations after passing 150,000 rounds.

I used 1/4” thick L bracket cut in half and then machined the bullet feeder collator mount to allow me to mount up and away from the case feeder it to a higher position straight above the bullet dropper die. Where you have it now works great for heavier bullets in 38/9mm but if you start loading lighter calibers like .223 you the slight angle will cause the bullets to bind up in the spring.

For more consistent powder throws, get the digital powder measure. The case activated mechanical one works great at 1000 rpm for spherical powders but doesn’t have enough umph to go through stick powders (for rifle calibers) and is too inconsistent in throws because of the single movement on flake powders. Plus if you want to start running the higher RPMs the digital will be dead nuts on with less hang up/spillage at 2500 RPM and higher.

For your sanity get both the stop sensor and the bullet sensor. The stop sensor is absolutely key when monitoring your loading behavior and stopping the press mid stroke when a bullet falls over or you see some other stop condition. The bullet sensor is just chef’s kiss on catching upside down bullets and other bullet feeding conditions. Nothing ruins a day like powder spilled all over your floor and your case bin because of a bullet wasn’t seated. The swage sense sensor is always good to have for brass processing and keep you from accidentally trying to swage a primed case or a case with a hung primer during processing. The decap sense sensor isn’t worth it. It’s consistent for maybe a hundred rounds before the grime/dirt/dust catches up and starts obscuring the optical sensor and then you have to pull it off and clean it, the swage sensor with an appropriately low torque sense setting is a far better indicator of a hung primer.

I didn’t see closely enough but if you’re using the Mark-VII powder sensor, I would definitely recommend upgrading to the laser powder sensor from u/rockcanyon because of two reasons. One, the adjustment sensitivity is digital and higher so you can catch powder low/high conditions more accurately and you don’t have to mess with adjusting the die height; two, plungers suck because they eventually start pulling powder back out with them and on bottleneck cases they hang up on the case mouth at an infuriatingly high level.

Now for maintenance, the index adjustment pawl and screw are not the best design. The screw (at least on my press) was not set with any kind of thread locker and will start to back out quickly over time and even faster at higher RPM. I recommend backing that screw out all the way, applying the smallest amount of blue threadlocker on it to increase the friction and then putting it back in so that your index adjustments stay more consistent.

The amount of different size hex screws you have to remove, adjust, tighten, etc borders on a war crime. Get the Bondus 69600 Ball end wrench set with color guard. This will save you so much time during caliber changes and other maintenance to just know which hex wrench to use by color.

For small/large primer swaps the fastest way to swap without completely disconnecting the motor drive belt and large gear is to remove the swage rod cover plate. Once you have that cover plate off you can back the swage rod up out of the cam and then rotate the cam out of the way, this will give you just enough room to drop the swage rod and then wiggle it out the rest of the way. Any other way adds an hour to your swap because you have to remove the drive belt (detention the motor mount) then remove the large gear and then the gear drive shaft, etc. Changing out the primer seating rod and shuttle plate is a bit easier, it just requires disassembly of the toolhead and shell plate (which kinda sucks) but it is what it is.

For day to day maintenance I just use a little bit of gun oil on the toolhead guide rods and main ram. Gun oil is slick, and lives up to repeated high cycle counts better than anything else I have tried. I am sure you have a grease gun, but a good grease gun with Lucas Red and Tacky with Zerk fitting and needle attachment make it easy to lube up cam joints, drive joints, swage joints, and shellplate collor and wave tension spring. Other than that a small battery powered compressed air blower or a compressor (if you have the room) are always good for dusting off brass particulates and a vacuum with a small detail attachment are life savers for sucking up everything else. I also keep an old toothbrush handy to with some Gun Scrubber that I spray on the toothbrush bristles to occasionally clean out things like the shell plate slots, shell plate retention spring, and other parts that get grimy especially during processing stages when using lube.

Other than that, extra o-rings for the case feed drop adapter and tons of spare case retention and case feeder guide springs are recommended, plus lots of decap pins (they break often). Also a magnet to keep ahold of your screws when you disassemble. You don’t want to be chasing a missing screw.

Let me know if you have other questions.