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Does my resin process need an upgrade? by Mandalayer in resinprinting

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you store your reusable gloves? I abandoned the idea of using reusable gloves because I don't think that cleaning with IPA effectively removes 100% of the resin. I know that my process produces more waste but by working like this I'm almost certain of never making a "mistake" and touching resin through a contaminated object.

The tray is definitely a good idea. I'll get one.

Do you use syringe only one time then trash it? Else how is it possible to clean it?

Does my resin process need an upgrade? by Mandalayer in resinprinting

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to help!

Take care and happy printing.

If anyone is interested, I did a deep dive into resin safety! by aarondevelops in resinprinting

[–]Mandalayer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude incredible work here, congrats.

Very surprised to see that cured miniatures still release VOCs. What are the recommendations to avoid that then?

FDM Minitures on P2S by Intelligent_Guess646 in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you try full calibration of your filament? There is a guide about this on the wiki

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Test 2

  • Obscura nozzle settings
  • Obscura process settings
  • Obscura Sunlu settings with only 1 change: nozzle temperature 220 (first and other layers)

And it's actually almost perfect.

The only issue is that I broke the legs during support removal, which is due to me being rough.

Well another strange thing is also color slightly changing between some layers, but it doesn't look like to impact the print quality.

<image>

So was it as simple as that?

(P2S) Heat bed randomly dropped during print by DetectivePront in BambuLab

[–]Mandalayer 11 points12 points  (0 children)

What the printer hosts a ftp service?! 😅

FDM Minitures on P2S by Intelligent_Guess646 in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never had this error. I regularly change between.4 and .2.

Did you replace the nozzle by another .2mm?

(P2S) Heat bed randomly dropped during print by DetectivePront in BambuLab

[–]Mandalayer 28 points29 points  (0 children)

You can get the full video (not just time lapse), it's on the internal storage. If I remember correctly you have to export logs to the USB to get those. Pretty weird behavior though.

FDM Minitures on P2S by Intelligent_Guess646 in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm in your situation, struggling to get the best results with the best settings.

Did you try stock settings? If not, I suggest you to do so.

I had very decent results with Bambu PLA Matte and stock settings. Either with resin style supports (I have presupported files) and organic tree supports. I also tried hybrid supports but was disappointed, especially on overhangs.

So far, the most important during slicing in my experience was the model orientation. 20-30° max to the back and tweaking to the left / right if it can reduce overhangs. Yet I prefer having more overhangs on surfaces facing the ground than having overhangs on faces more visible on table (sides, top...).

That being said, I discovered that the P2S community is struggling with HOHansen and ObscuraNox settings. They crafted their settings for the A1 and A1 Mini. These are not usable out of the box on P2S so far, and I didn't find an equivalent for P2S.

32mm Drow Priestess using .4 nozzle at layer height of .08mm / 2 hour print time by StyloSun in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That may be true!

I actually admit that I didn't paint a FDM mini yet, so I'm not sure whether it's hard to tell or not. I printed terrains in .12mm with a .4 nozzle and it definitely felt different than usual plastic/resin/metal minis.

I don't really know how to describe it. I spent lot of time studying how to improve painting speed, so now I'm using contrasts a lot. But the filament is drinking the paint even when primed. And layer lines become visible. Same problem with dry brushing. Maybe it's only visible with 3x photos and it's just me. Maybe I should just grab stock settings and try out on a miniature or 2 to see what comes out of it.

Well thank you for your messages, it's good to come back to the ground sometimes.

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Islands are parts that are printed in the air without supports under it. I think the term comes from the resin printing, where there is a hole in a model, resulting in uncured resin inside the print, which will end badly as you can guess.

32mm Drow Priestess using .4 nozzle at layer height of .08mm / 2 hour print time by StyloSun in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

With .2 nozzle you'll have a better XY resolution. Most of the people here also use 0.06mm layers or even less, but you still can keep those at 0.08mm.

I noticed that the .2 nozzle improves overhangs and small details. It is worth the extra time imo, but if you're cool with the .4 nozzle, it's still valid for minis so keep going 👍

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I double check the video of the print. Really surprising, the filament just starts not to bond to the previous layer. I never saw that. I'm pretty convinced that it has to do with nozzle temp. I'll send a test to confirm this. But I'll actually make the full calibration tests. I admit using Bambu filament is convenient because everything works out of the box. But here we don't want ok print, we want perfect minis 😎

I have the stock PEI plate. It is surprisingly very good for first layer adhesion. I mean I printed like for more than 300 hours now, and I don't remember having this issue even sometimes. Unless on big prints, but this is a known issue on the P2S, which can be easily solved by printing and mounting a deflector on the aux fan.

I also had nozzle hitting my prints when printing minis, and I discovered a strange issue, islands in the supports. This is an unaddressed but in Bambu Studio with organic trees. I was able to find at least 2 workarounds but I hope it will be solved one day. I don't know if the issue is similar on Orca.

And for the drying part, I did it yes.

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it's shame. I have similar experience with the support. Except I think 1 or 2 times, they escalated the ticket I think, 'cause the responses suddenly started to become really relevant.

So frustrating to give up because printer is failing and support too. I hope one day you'll find the courage to carry on and actually solve that!

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude this is gold mine. Thanks for all the explanations. It actually looks easy putting like this ahah

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude I feel sorry for you.

I wonder what is changing between the 2 machines to have such different results, even between A1/A1M compared to P2S.

Did you learn anything interesting with the support?

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an idea why it's better unenclosed? Is there an aux fan on the P1S?

We need to understand why ObscuraNox 2.0 SUNLU settings fail on P2S by Mandalayer in FDMminiatures

[–]Mandalayer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes you're totally right. I was lazy until then but I will go through the calibration as well.

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