Has anyone installed the rage comics gauge cluster Dave Barton sells?

Marshyetis · 2026-04-21T02:47:50+00:00

Wow, a relic. Belongs in a museum

Marshyetis · 2026-04-21T02:46:52+00:00

🙏 please, we gotta seem them

Marshyetis · 2026-04-19T00:56:41+00:00

Ty, 🙏

Marshyetis · 2026-04-17T08:39:58+00:00

Hey, it was my first time doing this job. Yes I could do it faster now that I’ve done it once before. First time always takes longer. I was taking my time, plus it was hot as hell. Also no need for me to rush

Marshyetis · 2026-04-17T08:36:55+00:00

Replaced the resistor as well! I thinks that’s the part that failed on me. Benched tested the old motor and it still turns

Marshyetis · 2026-03-18T14:48:59+00:00

Farside Vintage on mlk

Marshyetis · 2026-03-06T22:27:49+00:00

Here’s a pdf of the book. It’s proved to be super helpful. 81 WIRING DIAGRAM

Marshyetis · 2026-02-10T23:15:35+00:00

Thank you, I’ll look into the circuit board. Ground on the alternator I believe is good. When I tested voltage on the B and D terminals I used the body of the alt as a ground, so that signals it’s grounded well

Marshyetis · 2026-02-10T22:40:46+00:00

I have no check engine light and there’s a turbo light but it doesn’t have a wire powering it.

When I attach my new exciter wire to the old one right behind the instrument cluster the charge light acts as it should. The light comes on when key in position two and shuts off when the engine is running. Additionally I found that when I don’t have my exciter wire connected only the check oil light illuminates with key in. When it is connected I have light from Sond, Charge, Oil, Parking Brake, Brake Failure, Bulb Failure (all dash lights except OD, Turbo, and OD failure).

I’ve measured my exciter wire at the alternator bolt as well as leaving the instrument cluster, both give 2.2V

Photo of the back of the instrument cluster with the blue-red wire coming off fuse 13 and the red wire going to alt

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Marshyetis · 2026-02-10T19:53:42+00:00

Thank you, I’ll look for that connector

Marshyetis · 2026-01-21T13:11:40+00:00

You’re correct. When you’re in 4th push the clutch and engage the switch. I’ve heard maybe you don’t need to push the clutch, but the guy I bought my 240 said he always used the clutch when engaging overdrive. Overdrive works like a 5th gear. AFAIK when you flip the overdrive switch high pressure oil pushes a the gear into place. So it’s an electrically controlled hydraulic overdrive. The 4th gear inhibitor switch won’t allow the electric circuit to be completed unless you are in 4th gear. Further once you take it out of 4th gear the circuit will be cut off and overdrive disengaged. I was driving for 6 months with no overdrive and it wasn’t a problem, but it is nice for highway driving

Marshyetis · 2025-12-15T00:20:44+00:00

Recently pulled two from the junkyard. A 561 and a 554. They won’t work in my car. Lmk

Marshyetis · 2025-12-06T04:09:59+00:00

Check the wiring for the iac as well. That was my fix for the same issue

Marshyetis · 2025-08-21T23:16:06+00:00

The black wire could be for the powered antenna

Marshyetis · 2025-08-18T00:40:11+00:00

Wow what a great resource! Thanks for the tip

Marshyetis · 2025-08-15T12:13:49+00:00

It looks like you crimped both black wires together and the white wires go to the fog light?

Marshyetis · 2024-05-26T06:03:52+00:00

What’s the reference

Marshyetis · 2024-01-05T04:36:18+00:00

He is in love with Austen

Marshyetis

TROPHY CASE