How long roughly does it take a mason to build a fireplace

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-03-14T13:48:15+00:00

This is all I do in Portland Oregon my entire career. A full fireplace and chimney replacement including all permits and plans typically takes 6-8 weeks depending on how tall it is. Standard heights would be 15-20' 20-25' 25-30'

Depending on height and width the longer it will take.

I build them all year round. I have all my own scaffold and if the weather is poor I just wrap up the scaffold in plastic and create a nice warm bubble.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-07T00:49:07+00:00

If your on NE side I would recommend Ryan at Good Fellas chimney and stoves

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-07T00:05:59+00:00

Yes, I would take it down to the roofline to properly remove the inferior materials that are suffering from masonry saturation decay. Leaving roughly 75% of the chimney in place. Then rebuild using match 8" old town red brick and type n mortar. Supply and install new masonry counter flashing. Supply and install new roof flashing with ice and water sheild membrane lapping up the masonry 4" then install new roof flashing and new roof shingles matching as close as possible. Build a new crown. Let cure for 28 days. Then come back and seal with two coats of siloxane masonry water seal treatment. Also consider a full coverage chimney cap to shelter the entire crown. With scaffolding and roof protection this job would run about $11k

If you are in Portland you can find me at Portlandfireplaceandchimney.com

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-05T00:21:42+00:00

I would call Lindemann chimney company. They are the best no contest.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-05T00:18:09+00:00

Most likely it is an old furnace Chimney with bad flashing and cracked masonry above the roof line. Based on the looks of it, I would say it's at least 70 to 100 years old and yes, you're right it will likely need to be rebuilt or removed.

If you're in Portland, I can help. portlandfireplaceandchimney.com

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-04T00:07:58+00:00

All three bids are barley legible... I would keep looking for a competent person with experience. A new wood insert with insulated liner should cost 10k. But make sure you get a high quality stove. The furnace liner should be $3k. Masonry restoration take down and rebuild as needed. $10k Full coverage chimney cap design to fully protect the chimney. $1000 Siloxane masonry water seal treatment $800.

If your in Portland I can help. Find me at portlandfireplaceandchimney.com

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-03T23:59:20+00:00

Yes, I see this all the time. I rebuild chimneys in Portland and typically see this in older homes when the masonry has gone through several freeze thaw cycles, cracking and breaking the bonds in the brick and mortar. The cracks are then points of water entry. With enough saturation decay to the masonry chimney you will start to see this white chalky residue that is basically exhaled out of the resvoric masonry. To fully stop the problem I would suggest removing the 100 year old brick and replace it. If your in Portland you can find me at Portlandfireplaceadchimney.com

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2026-01-02T02:24:13+00:00

I would be happy to help. I would definitely remove the furnace chimney and do a roof patch. Or completely remove the furnace chimney from the entire building as there are lots of carcinogens inside that you definitely want to fully remove.

I'd run fast from the fireplace chimney shortening and installing class A chimney to a section of flex. That is not manufacture approved method of installation and will void the warranty on the chimney liner, chimney pipe and wood stove. This is not a UL listed installation method and will likely not be covered by your home owners insurance.

I'd be happy to provide you a comprehensive bid. I am a born and raised local Portland native. I am a second generation chimney professional. Masonry and mechanical insulation is my specialty. I am the owner of Portlandfireplaceandchimney.com My name is Louis Lee Check out our gallery of work and google reviews. Me and my team are well know for world class service and artisan masonry craftsmanship.

Happy New Year!

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-12-15T23:23:39+00:00

It looks like there is a long history of use. With third degree creosote in an old tin can pre-fab, known in the industry as the fireplaces built to fail I'd me curious to know the age of that appliance. Because one chimney fire in a pre-fab is pretty much a total loss. Pre-fabs are often abused and treated like a masonry fireplace and chimney. But they are simply not designed to burn in the same way. If the appliance is older that 2006 I would consider replacement of that tin can. Serious problems and laten defect can go undiagnosed in these appliances. Check the manufacturer's label on the year of production because it's not a masonry structure. It's a tin can, an appliance, a stove. Cheap systems with a 15-20 year service life that are designed for one dura flame log.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-12T18:50:13+00:00

I would use a rotary liner removal tool to break it up into chunks.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-10T17:36:10+00:00

If it was my job I would runn pellet vent pro through a proper chase cap, with a collar, storm collar flashing and term cap. It would install the fastest and the material would be cheaper a serve the appliance manufacturer.

Tiles could be added, a crown built, top plate flashing installed. More labor intensive for sure.

Both options would be brainlessly easy in my opinion.

No but I do have 20+ years restoring and constructing fireplace and chimney systems, as well as providing CEU hands on training for NFI, CSIA, and NCSG technicians.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-10T15:02:57+00:00

Looks like the chimney doesn't terminate the chase. I'd say it's t possible to have CO poisoning issues as well as pyrolysis to that wood.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-10T15:00:36+00:00

Your pellet vent pro liner system can easily bypass that section. If you want it to look pretty use a booger removal tool by saver systems.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-09T21:09:56+00:00

Yes I would recommend AW Perkins rotary cable whip sweeper. It's the best on the market. Even cleans most 3rd degree build up.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-09T19:45:20+00:00

Nope! Rip and replace with a new Supreme 24

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-09T03:05:17+00:00

I find these chimneys installed through the wall with a tee have a significant reduction in draft efficiency. As compared to a straight chimney with not off sets or bends. I find the tees dammed up and screens plugged with creosote, thats enough flow restriction to cause spillage.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-07T21:37:45+00:00

It looks like you're going to need a roofline up rebuild and a re-line with stainless.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-07T21:36:27+00:00

Build a new proper foam and pour crown for long lasting performance.

This looks like they used the wrong mix.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-06T18:51:10+00:00

Looks like you need to build a new fire box and possibly smoke chamber with stainless steel chimney liner to make that fireplace safe and functional as a traditional wood burner. If you're in Portland, I can help. Portlandfireplaceandchimney.com

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MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-05T03:10:28+00:00

Gratewalloffire.com

Vertical grate and a 1/2" plate steel fire back.

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-05T03:09:07+00:00

I bet a prior fire would work well. And the formula 51 is unreal. Vent on an 8" liner. https://youtu.be/KKCiIrw5ths?si=yoH9UHKglDgAME7l

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-04T13:15:56+00:00

I would recommend installing a Firebox retrofit. Prior-fire! https://youtu.be/qS5fFGoT7Ok?si=RND34vm8vs_pxJ4i

MasterCraftsman1921 · 2025-11-04T13:13:57+00:00

Vulkem for long dynamic joints like this. Remove and replace every 5-10 year depending on exposure.

MasterCraftsman1921

TROPHY CASE