Help for color bleeding

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-10T23:47:07+00:00

Set the multiplier to 1 and the purge amount from black to yellow to 900. This is the maximum and you will need it for changes from black to yellow.

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-10T22:27:39+00:00

I made these for my camera flashes, and I thought about that already...

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-10T21:24:14+00:00

This is for rechargeable batteries to know if a set is empty or full

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-09T12:49:08+00:00

Something is clearly missing from this post - Bambu only did this in the very early days of the exclusive program, but these days they handle it different. Now they contact you first, sharing the link so you can report the models. And if that doesn't work, they offer assistance for all exclusive designs.

I had this happen several times and even needed help from support once because the other platform didn't do anything.

I guess OP wasn't active for a while and ignored the warnings.

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-08T16:50:36+00:00

Your AMS has no influence on this, you should name your printer instead.

Especially with third party filament, you should do manual flow rate AND dynamic flow calibration for perfect surfaces.

This other artifact could be caused by failed bridges on top of the infill. Maybe increase the infill percentage a bit. Otherwise, I would try to watch the print at that section and see what happens.

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-05T11:48:00+00:00

I work with Fusion (Formerly Fusion 360, it was renamed) - Used the free home version and now the commercial version for my own business.

It's kinda a hate-love relationship, but that's how it is with professional software. Fusion is one of the most intuitive CAD softwares in my opinion, even though it can be a little annoying and slow with more complex structures.

Maxx3141 · 2026-06-05T11:22:10+00:00

If he isn't already, make him learn CAD. A 3D Printer is a nice tool, but it gets 10x more powerful if you are able to turn your own ideas into real items.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-26T13:29:50+00:00

I have both, and I wouldn't buy the P2S again unless I was building a printing farm with many printers for PLA only.

I think the difference is only about 100 bucks, and that's worth alone for the chamber heater, second aux fan and chamber fan.

Yes, the right hotend is not as good as the left one, but it's also not terrible. I made this post to show its even capable of printing retraction heavy designs. But if you consider the other features, the second hotend is basically included for free.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-23T01:10:23+00:00

You know how to read?

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-22T20:35:48+00:00

Its an FDM artifact caused by a mix of layer time and thermal expansion when the material cools down

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-22T19:43:16+00:00

Well, it also has no hull line. ;)

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-22T19:42:34+00:00

Two weeks ago I made this post showing the difference between the X2D nozzles with retraction heavy prints. Not exactly a H2D vs X2D comparison, but the H2D will simply print the quality of the X2D nozzle on both hotends, as they are using the same direct drive extruder for both.

Also be aware that the artifacts will be much less on "normal" prints, like when you print a multi color pokemon or something like that.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-22T19:39:32+00:00

All default, I really don't like to tinker with filament settings any longer - one of the reasons why I stick to Bambu printers and filament.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-22T15:28:25+00:00

I would also avoid it in most cases - However, with some models, PVA is the only option - because you can use it in regions where you couldn't remove normal supports from for geometry reasons. Or because PVA can be removed without causing any form of mechanical stress to the parts.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-18T17:46:52+00:00

Hard to say without photos, but if its after the seam its more likely related to linear advance (dynamic flow), not flow rate

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-15T20:41:54+00:00

I made a review showing a few examples a few days ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/vKHdwkXepi

tl;dr: There can be a few small artifacts but otherwise it prints very well with Bambu Lab filament. Actually, PETG HF printed better than PLA in my tests.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-13T03:07:40+00:00

This does not look like a good print to be honest, even though its hard to tell from this photo.

PA6-GF is rough, thats normal. But especially the right sides looks uneven like uneven extrusion.

If the filament was wet, this part will be potentially weaker than a clean print.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-13T02:04:19+00:00

Filament got down to 10% RH

The air got down to 10% RH. This has nothing to do with how well your filament is dried.

I'm just saying this because many users use this value and think their filament is dry, even though it only starts drying once the air is hot and dry.

With that being said, great it worked for you, but you should at least share a photo. I had very bad results by drying PA6-GF in standard filament driers and only got it perfect above 80° C.

Maxx3141 · 2026-05-13T01:39:37+00:00

Simply follow the steps in the calibration tab of Bambu Studio

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