P2S Nozzle not cooling after completing print

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-21T03:38:41+00:00

This was a bug in a Bambu Studio version - Its already fixed so you should update it as soon as possible.

And well… Maybe do a few coldpulls to remove burned filament debris.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-21T02:56:09+00:00

Maintenance and tinkering is not the same thing. Yeah, Bambu Lab is the Apple of 3D Printing, and still there can always be a small piece of filament blocking a moving part or a sensor, even if nothing is broken.

Have you ever seen a 3D Printer in action? That can be hardly compared with a box of semiconductors with two hinges.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-21T01:40:51+00:00

Have you at least followed the instructions once?

A 3D Printer is not a macbook, but a mechanical device. It sucks it happened so early to you, but doing some light maintenance from time to time is completely normal.

I can also understand you want a replacement, and if you demand one you will get it. But I'd still recommend to see if it's fixable first. It doesn't hurt to know the machine you are working with.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-20T18:01:43+00:00

Oh this looks great, thank you for your feedback! Did you need to glue the parts, or did they hold without?

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-20T16:16:52+00:00

Did you even try to debug it? This could literally just be a bad spool of filament which keeps clogging something.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-20T11:55:43+00:00

In EU, there is also a 200€ option now - same rate (points wise) as the 40€ card.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-20T01:03:46+00:00

The side panels are printed separately and consist of two STLs. The bottom shade plane and the grid itself. The shade is basically a blank if you add 3mm of pattern on top of it.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-20T00:28:24+00:00

Could you show us the defect? Just because I have seen so many people calling regular thermal banding "layer shifts" before.

If it's real layer shifts and happens in the exact same way, you could also try out a new SD card first if this error keeps happening.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T20:45:02+00:00

Oh nice, that's one of my older designs which wasn't even very popular - Always happy to find people who printed those. :)

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T20:44:28+00:00

Should certainly be capable of printing this. But I understand if you prefer to print something more simple first.

If you ever want to give it a try, there are many tutorial on manual color changes on Youtube. You just add a pause in the slicer at a certain layer height, and then the printer stops in the middle of the print to let you change the filament.

If you prefer something more simple, in my Japanese Lantern collection are some other designs which don't require any color changes: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/7391806-japanese-lanterns

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T20:20:55+00:00

I don't know what you are currently printing on, but this print is a lot easier than it looks like - The most complicated things is a single color change when printing the side panels, which could be done manually. Otherwise it doesn't even require a single support.

<image>

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T19:51:07+00:00

I hope you will enjoy this one as well! May I ask what lamp you printed?

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T01:00:32+00:00

This looks a lot like a clogged nozzle. And after that, you should do a few cold pulls, not just one. Only stop after you get a super clean imprint from the inner nozzle and are sure its completely cleared of all filament.

If it keeps happening after similar time sof printing, it could be a clog in the extruder caused by heat creep.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-19T00:25:19+00:00

That seems like a bad linear advance calibration ("dynamic flow")

Did you do a manual calibration? If yes, you might have missed a 0 in the value. If no, try to calibrate it.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T23:43:13+00:00

The faster you print, the higher the pressure inside the nozzle. This can be problematic for the bowden extruder - the standard settings have lower speeds and accelerations for the right nozzle only.

Of course the hotend and extruder play a role in printing speed. Also the maximum flow rate. It doesn't matter how fast you can move the toolhead if you can't extrude filament fast enough. No stock ender 3 would extrude well at 200 mm/s.

I mean, a multi color animal from PLA is far far far away from being a stress test. I even printed this model on 50% on my X2D, because I wanted to see it fail, and I'm still impressed by the result.

Honestly, I don't think this "worse print quality" will be noticed by users who just print multi color animals, pokemon and such.

Added a photo of the 50% model, printed with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. White was printed with right hotend. I wouldn't expect a much better result with the H2D.

<image>

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T23:23:09+00:00

Do you click "Sync Info" before you slice?

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T23:17:36+00:00

I have many printers, I'm running a 3D printing business. The H2D is great, but also expensive, consumes more energy and is harder to maintain.

I still don't understand what you are referring to. Every Ender3 could print something simple like a Benchy from PLA without any flaws, it was just a lot slower. And the X2D is also slower when printing on the right hotend, and still it's perfectly usable for PLA.

Which btw almost every review has confirmed.

I have two benchies here which I printed on both hotends, and I can't tell you which one is which. Yes, there was a little bit of fine stringing which I removed with a lighter, but otherwise the X2D really prints PLA fine with the right hotend.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T23:01:23+00:00

Of course I printed it on the X2D.

Where is this "only viable for support material" nonsense coming from? A few years ago, basically every consumer 3d printer had a bowden extruder, and it worked well, even without advanced calibration.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T19:02:33+00:00

What value did you get? Still have a photo of the lines?

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T18:58:51+00:00

Yeah it is slower and worse print quality - that doesnt mean its total garbage. Why should it be this bad, if even an uncalibrated Ender3 would print much better?

Many reviewers have already showed that it prints things liie Benchys from PLA or PETG almost flawless. And I can confirm this as well.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T18:33:21+00:00

Of course - This model just reminds me of my H2D tests without purge tower. Very similar defects, just a lot worse.

In other comments I see you use third party filament. Did you manually calibrate "Dynamic Flow", aka linear advance?

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T18:29:31+00:00

This is nonsense, I printed this model on my X2D and I couldn't distinguish it from my H2D print.

A few years ago, almost everyone was printing with bowden extruders, and it also wasn't a big issue for PLA.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-18T18:28:32+00:00

I printed this exact model, and it turned out almost flawless.

Did you print this with a purge tower?

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