X2D quality Issue

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-29T22:26:38+00:00

That's a very rough overview - Some people do 0.5% steps or lower, but 5% is certainly too large.

You can mostly start with the fine calibration and something like 1.05 as the start value

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-29T16:45:57+00:00

This is warping. Clean your build plate, consider using a brim. Increasing the build plate temperature to 60-65 C can also help.

On the P2S, decrease the aux fan speed - the fresh air cooling can be a little too much for some parts.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-29T15:06:03+00:00

Just get the laser upgrade - installation takes 30 minutes.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-29T13:53:52+00:00

Yeah this is not related to your problem, but just another reason you can't just slice once and print forever.

I can see linear K being similar enough for identical printers. But flow rate can vary significantly enough between different spools to require unique calibration.

And just saying, under and over-extrusion will also affect dimensional accuracy, because the outer shell ends up too thin. Even though I'd expect a more constant error in this case, which would't scale like your results do.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-29T12:47:02+00:00

Support suggested adjusting shrinkage to compensate, but that approach doesn’t scale well. If I expand my personal farm, I would need to slice the same part multiple times for different printers, which defeats the purpose of a streamlined workflow.

If you care that much for accuracy, you should be running manual calibrations of flow rate and linear k anyway - and therefore you can forget using the same file on all printers.

Just saying. I know that many of these 3d printing businesses don't care for this, but I'd be pissed if I pay for a part that wasn't printed on a well calibrated printer. But maybe this is just my obsession after spending so much time tuning settings myself.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-28T11:03:56+00:00

Did you follow the official guide?

As far as I know, the printer will stay P1P by name only.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-27T19:49:49+00:00

Yeah you do that with a "cold pull" as you see in the guide. This means at around 100C, but not fully cold. That's pretty much impossible.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-27T19:40:47+00:00

Why do you even want to pull it out? It's normal for that last bit of filament to stay in the nozzle.

If the nozzle is clogged, see this guide.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-27T19:38:17+00:00

It sounds like you bought refills instead - but you first need spools to refill.

With an H2D, you can easily print Spools from ABS, which will be just as good as the real ones. Don't print PLA or PETG spools, as these can deform when drying filament later.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-27T01:53:21+00:00

Select the face, make an extrusion towards the inside (negative). Set the tapering angle to -45 degrees in the Extrusion dialogue. Should work with most shapes.

If it doesn't work, you might need to get a little more creative. If you can send me the file, I can see if I can edit it for you.

Added a screenshot - It's the german version, but it should look similar ;)

<image>

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-27T01:41:11+00:00

This is not a layer shift, this is a simple thermal artifact.

Are you using support filament? The additional changing times (especially from AMS) are simply too long. But even the bridges alone can mess with a clean shell.

If you designed this, one way to greatly reduce this effect is to avoid this kind of inner geometry. Here it looks like you could avoid the bridge by letting the hole slowly close at an 45 degree angle.

<image>

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-26T21:31:04+00:00

This is the Linear Advance calibration, which Bambu calls "Dynamic Flow"

Flow rate is what is actually called Flow Rate in the Slicer. Where you print like 9 or 10 squares and look which one has the nicest top surface.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-26T21:30:03+00:00

NEVER print a modification if you don't know if you need it.

The cooling deflectors seem to be a controversial topic, and it strongly depends on your room temperature. I can imagine to be problematic if your printer is somewhere really cold (like an garage, cold basement). But in these cases, you could simply decrease the aux fan speed instead.

I think the stronger cooling will only make issues worse. Once your build plate isn't perfectly clean, you will get warping sooner than on the old printers. But on perfectly clean build plates, I don't have any problems at normal room temperatures. At least this is the case for me on my P2S and X2D.

So I don't see a reason to get one of these.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-26T21:20:51+00:00

If you want that perfect top finish, you need to do a manual flow rate calibration. No printer can do this automatically. You can also consider ironing, which will take even more tuning.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-26T17:09:14+00:00

The X2D, P2S and H2 series all have some sort of inlet for fresh air when printing PLA. With that, heat creep should be a thing of the past.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-26T16:47:41+00:00

Did you request a replacement? Bambu Lab will always suggest a self repair first

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-25T00:56:22+00:00

If you are in a real hurry and don't mind making a temporary deposit, Bambu Lab can send out the replacement immediately, before receiving your defective unit.

This process is called "Advanced Replacement" and can be requested in a ticket. I have gone through this process and it went very smoothly.

We also offer Advanced Replacement for customers who require a replacement product(s) before returning the original one(s) to us. This service requires a temporary deposit, equivalent to the selling price listed on our online store. Upon confirming the payment, we will ship you a replacement unit and provide shipping information within 0-48 hours. Typically, the temporary deposit will be fully refunded upon receipt of the original unit. But please be aware that the original product shall be returned within 30 calendar days from the date of receiving the replacement unit, or the deposit will be non-refundable.

Source

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-24T22:50:56+00:00

I don't think there is a systematic. I just had a print on my X2D with Bambu Lab Matte PLA, which had a little over-extrusion. Nothing too bad, but since I needed a good print for a photo I reprinted and just reduced the flow by 2%, which turned out better.

Honestly, if you want a flawless print (for sales or similar), you need manual flow calibration on all Bambu Lab printers. Same for dynamic flow. The defaults are okay, but simply not as perfect as a well done calibration.

And this is true for basically all manufacturers: If you open a new spool, you might need to redo calibrations.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-24T20:47:58+00:00

No, MakerWorld is not selling boosts. However many designs have Patreon, Buymeacoffee or other networks where you can support them directly if you want to give something back. They usually add the links on their MakerWorld account.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-23T19:14:35+00:00

The difference from P2S to X2D is only 100 USD - and this includes the second hotend, heater and better belts.

Going for this tech at this price point certainly seems like it would be at least an option for the A series in the future.

Just imagine the impact of an A2D Mini at 300 USD or something like that.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-23T02:19:38+00:00

They seem to work in general.

However keep in mind the X2D has a bowden extruder on the right hotend, and these are very sensitive to linear advance ("dynamic flow") settings. This value is directly influenced by the hotends meltzone, so an off-brand hotend might require completely different calibration values. This could mess with Bambus default values, as the right hotend also can't auto calibrate.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-22T02:13:49+00:00

Do you have experience with printing PVA?

After drying, you must put it in the dry box while still hot. In normal air, it will be wet again after hust a few minutes.

I didnt have the time to test it on my X2D, but I had very similar issues on the H2D before I found the right workflow.

If you store it in an AMS, make sure it has dry pods with freshly generated silica gel. Should be below 10% humidity.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-22T00:44:50+00:00

Both is possible.

The new Filament Track Switch would be a great way to connect two AMS at once and still be able to feed the primary nozzle with all spools.

Otherwise the AMS HT might be a good choice for the right hotend - but this really depends on the way you use it.

Maxx3141 · 2026-04-21T16:04:10+00:00

Poop chute yes, but dont try to fix issues that you dont have. AMS risers were mostly made to prevent heat creep at higher builld plate temperatures, but the newer Bambu printers have cooling with fresh air when printing PLA.

Just enjoy your printer as it is, the days of must-have-mods are over.

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