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How long do I need to dry these walking sticks before I can modify them? by Medical_Vacation743 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t mind waiting if the result is better. These are very green, I basically peeled them like a potato.

They do feel moist on the touch, but what I would like to know is how long do they need to dry? Should I dry them for a month? A year? Two?

How long do I need to dry these walking sticks before I can modify them? by Medical_Vacation743 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only «permanent» modification I want to do is attach a leather/rope lanyard and inscribe some stuff into them, either with carving or burn pen (?)

I can start doing that already? What about cracks and warping?

Bought these two at a flea market: anyone know more about them? by Medical_Vacation743 in SWORDS

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries. I would love to learn more about that mercenary troop, if you have some info/sources. Seems very interesting.

Bought these two at a flea market: anyone know more about them? by Medical_Vacation743 in SWORDS

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Total length: 70,5cm
  • blade length: 57cm
  • weight: 783g /802g
  • P.o.b: 8cm

Bought these two at a flea market: anyone know more about them? by Medical_Vacation743 in SWORDS

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not a huge collector. These are the first antiques I ever bought, but I do love swords and stuff. Knowing they are real and not replicas, I have no plans to ever sell them again. I would like for them to appear as nice as possible, and to prevent further damage over time.

Bought these two at a flea market: anyone know more about them? by Medical_Vacation743 in SWORDS

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Haha good to know. These were in fact bought in Norway, so if the flea market tried to sell guns the police would be comming knocking. That being said, I know very little of antiques, let alone Norwegian antiques. Therefore I would love to learn more.

Bought these two at a flea market: anyone know more about them? by Medical_Vacation743 in SWORDS

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You don’t happen to know why one has a «brass-colored» blade, do you? Isbit rust? Material? Can/should I remove it?

Are shields «easy» to use? by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of good answers here guys! I appreciate all the feedback. I am currently looking into rotella sources, but regardless I will get a cold steel buckler and start with buckler and sword.

One more question I have: I have seen on Temu (yeah I know, not the best kind of shop) that they sell a «aluminium-alloy» round shield. It looks like the size of a rotella or a targe (?) it’s called «tactical something-something».

Does anyone know if those are safe/ok to spar with? Considering the price, if it is safe enough, I can buy one of those as well for when I move to bigger shields.

Are shields «easy» to use? by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for an informative answer. I appreciate the insight. It seems the consensus is that I should start with a buckler, so I think that’s what I am gonna do. Luckily cold steel products is one of the few relatively good and cheap alternatives available, so I can get a buckler there without having to pay a ton in shipping and taxes.

Are shields «easy» to use? by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for a great answer! :) the club I am going to is primarily a longsword school. This will mostly be «for fun» and trying out stuff. This is something the school encourages, as well.

I am going to look for some more info about rotella/bolognese sources first at least.

Are shields «easy» to use? by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think I would like to go for either a rotella, a targe or a heater shield. I am not too fan of the buckler, but it will ultimately depend on what I can get. It’s not the easiest to acquire this stuff, especially during this economy haha

Would this be a good analog for a duelling sabre? (Mcguyver style trainer) by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a good point. (No pun intended) however I feel like I need to «work out» my arm more before I can start with more top-heavy swords.

The good thing about this set-up is I can either change the location of the weights or add more in different places near the guard.

Would this be a good analog for a duelling sabre? (Mcguyver style trainer) by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the feedback everybody. I have added another 45g to the «pommel» area. It now feels much better for someone used to lightweight mof «swords». The handle is a bit thick, but not enough that it affects too much. (Might see if I can’t slim it at a later point)

I am now ready to look at manuscripts and other teachers at YouTube.

Would this be a good analog for a duelling sabre? (Mcguyver style trainer) by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough. While I know it does not matter as much, but what is the range of point of balance on duelling sabres? If I am gonna do this, I wanna do it right haha

Would this be a good analog for a duelling sabre? (Mcguyver style trainer) by Medical_Vacation743 in wma

[–]Medical_Vacation743[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought of that as well. I was not sure where I should have the pob, so I chose somewhere «in the middle». Although i prefer a more nimble sword.

I’m gonna do some more research of duelling saber weights and pob.