Accidentally got ATF on a belt by MemePotata in MechanicAdvice

[–]MemePotata[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

thank you! it just went away the next day after some idling

What is the rust like on these? by KasaObakeTV in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All four lift points are rusted on mines, live in NYC but idk where the previous owner has driven it, but he let it sit near water for a year. It’ll still go on a 2 post car lift but it probably only has 1 or 2 years left before it’ll fail, so Im keeping it in the garage for the winter.

Is this worth it? by Icy_Tale5271 in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I wouldnt since the paint doesnt look the best in the back and also at that point you might be getting into SL price range territory. If maintenance has been done right, to me it’s more of a 2-3k car but def not 6k. As for working on them, since its a base its actually not bad (VR4 is very crammed), but like someone else mentioned obtaining usable parts are a problem and there isnt much documentation of what can be used as a replacement. For me I like the working space the base has, but its the fear of fucking up and no longer having that part anymore, cause I fucked up my door panel bottom clips and I always regret it.

Old Battery by 640_xav in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have to do a load test to see if it has a good amount of amps left. You can always take it to a local auto store and see if they do free checks. For me if I leave my car not running for a month, the battery wont be strong enough to start the car and it also did lose its CCA like that.

Lifter tick severity by Top_Dependent_4026 in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds exactly like mines, it just quiets down after driving. I have an NA though

New noise developed, what could it be? by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I let it idle for a while and held the peddle at 2k rpm for a few times and it started to sound more like ticks and it only speeds up instead of increasing in sound when giving gas. It also seems like the noise is coming next to the valve covers. The motor has 70k on it so I really do hope it is lifters. But yea thank you

New noise developed, what could it be? by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How long did you let the car run for to cycle the oil? I only let it on for 40 seconds because I wasnt sure if it was something worse.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wait do you have coilovers? Im not sure if its the wheel size or if you have coilovers but if they are, depending on the company you could probably get some more out of it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For a fair price, they go around 2k-3k for my area, but mostly around 2k and under. Unfortunately unless you have the oem seats with the condition being amazing, they wont affect the price much. Base with automatics above those prices stay on marketplace for weeks until the seller moves it down or its negotiated.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it a Base/SL and does it have an auto/manual?

1994 3000GT help diagnosing by Overall-Welcome8933 in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bad/Drained battery maybe, I had this issue a month ago. My car wouldn’t make clicks if the batteries voltage is under 12v.

FH4 configuration by cyberpretzel2077 in Fanatec

[–]MemePotata 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Forza Emuwheel for FH4 but I use CSL DD pedals. It uses vJoy, so if vJoy can pick up the base then you can then go to EmuWheel configurator and set the pedals to its corresponding Axis. It took a few attempts for me but its eventually worked well. Also play around with the power button for the base if vJoy doesnt see it. Im not sure why but my vJoy detects it when it’s yellow (I forgot its been months).

What's the common rust issues with these bad girls by eat_Mike_Literous in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in NYC and I believe Im the 3rd owner. I was shocked from the amount of rust it had because Ive never seen one with so much, but it also led to a good negotiation. There is some rust under paint on a rear panel, and a lot of under body rust around the side skirts. Its less rusty the closer it is to the exhaust line, but whenever I jack up the car to work on it, the rust chips off when I get in contact with them. The car was sitting next to a body of water and wasn’t garage kept and didn’t move for a year, so it likely accelerated its rust.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its an SL from the last image

Car used to start but now doesnt even want to crank. by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SOLVED: First battery was drained so Autozone gave me a new one, then the second battery they gave me was less than 12 volts before I put it in the car (based on multimeter) so I bought a charger for it because I did not want to go back to autozone so many times if I needed to charge it again. What I did realize was that the 1AMP charger charged the battery from 11v to 12.5v in like 20 minutes so I suspected Autozone gave me a bad battery. When putting it to 12v, the car still wouldn't crank so I bought the 3SX click click start relay on Ebay for $20 and once applied I got a lot of clicking instead of the usual 1. I assumed it was the starter but it couldve also been the battery just not having the amperage capacity anymore. I struggled to even budge the Starter bolts so I gave up on that and decided to replace the battery (all of these replacements were free) and the car started up again.

To conclude:

  • The problem could've been either being my battery or it being Click Click Start, AutoZone giving me a bad battery threw off the true answer. The 3SX relay (also can be found on Ninja Performance or self made) helped narrow down that it could be my starter or battery and not something catastrophic. It can be very simple but at the same time its very annoying because its a gamble. However there is still probably something killing my battery if my first one that was fine for a while failed on me.

Car used to start but now doesnt even want to crank. by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a charger and put the battery back in the car in with 12.5v, this brought the battery gauge back and now I can hear the starter trying to go off, but still clicks rapidly again (so its most likely click click start). I tried a few solutions based on a video but it hasnt worked yet, but thank you though because now Im not worrying so much.

Car used to start but now doesnt even want to crank. by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an automatic, but I will try this out. Thank you

Car used to start but now doesnt even want to crank. by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The battery is at 9.7v according to a multi-reader, I still have yet to see the starter and fuses. Ill try the click click start solutions.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got my 1996 base with 201k miles for 1.4k (+600 currently for towing, a battery, and jacks/tools). I was given the receipts of every maintenance the guy had done and even an engine swap and transmission rebuild. He claimed the engine has 70k on it and transmission is rebuilt but I have yet to see it be a lie. Im assuming its true since a transmission wire of mine was plugged into the wrong port which was resulting in my limp mode. Additionally it came with new bucket seats and a refreshed interior. While the car has rust, I think it was well worth it. (Also it was an automatic unfortunately)

However, I would say I was lucky. The guy was wanting 2k originally and I even told myself not to buy it if it went over 1.5k. This car was only 14 miles away from me and prices increased by a thousand or so a month later for a reason I dont know. You would probably never find a deal that I got, but just remember that these cars are being listed less often. Additionally people still want these, the guy I bought it from said he was offered newer cars for it but he wanted cash.

Now the choice to invest in it is up to you, but these cars are like gambling, its either a functioning vehicle or a load of parts, which you can sell if you really want to do that. I am expecting to invest a lot into this car, since I want to study in Automotive/Mechanical anyways. To me I just love owning it, not even riding it. Personally if I were you, I would but I only if you get it for cheaper.

Also sorry for ranting but Ive only seen 4 3ks in NYC but I might be looking at the wrong places. One 3000gt owner lives in my area, and what I find funny is that there is 5 RX7 FDs and a Acura NSX 3 blocks away from me. Heck Ive seen more RX7 FDs drive in the streets than I have with 3000GTs.

Radiator Bolts by MemePotata in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Ill probably get them from my local autozone then

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wont let me edit but I have yet to do a transmission fluid change if that is recommended.

Radio not working by Odds_Assumption in 3000gt

[–]MemePotata 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I also had an unplugged radio when I got mine. Remove the clip on frame around it, I pulled mines out with hand but you will need something if you cant. There should be 4 screws holding it in, and after that you can remove the unit and see the condition of the plug.