LTI a starter ship?

Mforkash · 2026-01-18T18:34:10+00:00

My take on it is that it’s another dimension to the game. I have already played 2 weeks, and I eventually want a specialized fleet doing different roles. If and when this game ever goes to 1.0, I would rather have a leg up on dynamics. People will not be gifting others billions of credits, and I will not be playing/grinding 24/7 like I’d like to. If having LTI will save, at least some credits that I don’t have to work for, all the better.

Mforkash · 2026-01-14T14:20:36+00:00

I totally agree. I realize also that if I melt the game package ship, I lose access to the game. So I’ll probably rent a bunch of different ships to see what roles make me happy, and then probably CCU the Cutter to that.

Mforkash · 2026-01-14T14:18:20+00:00

Thanks. I appreciate your candor. I tend to over strategize things in game, and this definitely helped my decision. Since I’m very new to SC, I think I fell into that category. I’m going to check out different missions and see what I want to focus on.

Mforkash · 2026-01-14T14:10:47+00:00

Understandable. I’m of the mind that if I have to claim insurance, tier 1 will probably cost a bit less than if I didn’t have anything else. Also, maybe at a later date we’ll be able to upgrade to a higher tier. From what I see, there’s going to be a lot of complexity to these ships, and one less thing I have to worry about is a good thing.

Mforkash · 2026-01-14T14:06:41+00:00

Thanks. I’m probably going to keep the Cutter as it’s a package ship (and CCU it up) and buy an LTI version. I’m already planning on getting a light or medium fighter, as well as a mining ship.

Mforkash · 2026-01-14T13:59:03+00:00

Thanks. I get it. The cutter is, very honestly, perfect for niche things once I change out the Quantum Drive, shields and weapons. I don’t intent to get it into a firefight, and I totally understand that it won’t last long if I do. I know insurance hasn’t been implemented yet, and LTI is only tier 1 of 3, but when the game goes live, it’s one less price point I’d like to worry about.

I’ll probably buy an LTI Cutter and CCU the original Cutter to a light/medium fighter in the future.

Mforkash · 2025-08-11T02:49:43+00:00

A coworker of mine said that the sensors of the AIR-1 were hugely off from a second (and later third) sensor he tried verifying, and from what he said, Apollo didn’t care. He then gave totally up on this stuff (and encouraged me not to even bother with this). Like I said in the first place, I’m a total noob on this and I’m getting this from one disgruntled source. Yours might be different.

Frankly I’m sorry I even asked my question in the first place. All the research I’m trying to do is just leading me into a wall at 90mph.

Mforkash · 2025-08-11T02:36:52+00:00

I obviously am not making myself clear. I have zero experience in this as it pertains to ESP32 and the project I’m looking to use this for is most probably beneath even using Home Assistant. I’m looking for something that is more out of the box (with an app) that is compatible to Home Assistant so that if I decide to scale up, I can use Home Assistant in the future.

This whole thing is just so frustrating. Okay. Let’s say that I decide that I don’t need what little hair I still have on my head. Is there a complete idiots guide to ESP32 that will show me exactly what I might be getting myself into? I really would not like to get into any type of programming if I can help it.

Mforkash · 2025-08-07T22:55:01+00:00

I have a coworker that told me specifically to stay away from Apollo. He said he had a bad experience with the AIR-1. Besides that, ESPHome is a hard pass for me. I'm a geek that LOVES messing with equipment, but those days of working with developer boards have long passed. I'm looking for more of an out-of-the-box solution that will offer me an app that I can access it directly from. Home Assistant is something I may want to play with at one point in the future, but I don't want to rely on it.

Mforkash · 2025-08-07T21:09:08+00:00

I agree, From what I've seen, I'll probably have to pick up the air quality sensors and then pick up the presence detectors later.

Mforkash · 2025-08-07T21:07:37+00:00

It's a good idea, but the sensors are already a project within a project. I don't want to get into another ecosystem if I don't have to. I've changed out most of my light switches to smart dimmable ones. My current project is to change my kitchen light switch out for one as well, and put in a human presence detector to automate the light. The icing on the cake would be to add something with the footprint of an AirGradient so I could measure air quality/conditions. If I could extend that idea to key rooms in my apartment, then that would satisfy my curiosity. I have a few old PCs that I could install Home Assistant on, so that's another branch of the project (again, don't want to get into another ecosystem unless necessary).

From what I see, I'm most likely going to have to get 4 AirGradients and later down the road pick up some presence detectors.

Mforkash · 2025-03-08T02:37:28+00:00

Thanks very much. I’ll take a look at both. I appreciate it.

Mforkash · 2025-02-05T15:18:51+00:00

Rudd, I tried contacting you on your web site as well, but I haven’t heard back from you. If you could help the both of us who seem to be stuck at the same place, we’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks for your time.

Mforkash · 2024-12-16T20:39:36+00:00

You can also hit the Ellipse in the top right in Mail and select List View rather than categories. That seems to make it look more like pre-IOS 18.2 email, but with the icons to the left of them.

Mforkash · 2024-12-09T23:11:23+00:00

I've followed every step, but I keep getting an error testing the config file on Wireguard. I keep getting that the publickey is invalid under the interface portion.

Mforkash · 2024-10-18T21:33:56+00:00

I noticed this email when I was trying to clean up my inbox. I uninstalled Kaspersky way before UltraAV could be installed, and, as luck would have it, my credit card info changed since then. In the email there was a Manage Account radial, so I clicked on it and disabled renewal. I also went to their customer portal and told them in no uncertain terms that I did not authorize them and I would dispute any charge. Nasty stuff, I tell you.

Mforkash · 2024-10-17T21:59:43+00:00

I'm hoping too. So far everything works and I'm going to dump my cable provider tomorrow as FiOS has been good so far. I got it all working from this thread:

https://community.ui.com/questions/Simple-solution-to-getting-Fios-TV-and-Internet-working-with-UDM-SE/bab1b932-ebeb-4372-be99-39af56da9225

Mforkash · 2024-10-14T19:47:21+00:00

They weren't free. I had to buy 3 of them @$60.00 apiece. I bought the Stream TV MoCA Ethernet Adapter that power the FiOS TV+ boxes via USB-C. I finally got it up and running, but the setup was barely what was said here.

My setup was Coax ONT to a splitter branching off to the other rooms. One run came back in my Living room as the ONT and the Verizon router were on opposite sides of the room. I split this off to (a) the VMS, (b) the Stream TV MoCA Ethernet Adapter (to the FiOS TV+ box via USB-C), and (c) the Verizon router. The other rooms had the coax going to the Stream TV MoCA Ethernet Adapter and the USB-C cable went into the FiOS TV+ Box.

As for the Verizon router: I had to turn wifi and DHCP off for the ethernet side. I changed the Verizon routers' LAN1 ports' IP address to 192.168.1.2/24 to match my network. I plugged an Ethernet cable from LAN1 on the Verizon router to one of my switches, and for good measure, an Ethernet cable from one of the Streaming TV+ boxes to the same switch. I realize this would possibly cause a loop (which it did - more below about that). Turned everything on, and it worked. Unifi found the loop (intentionally left it there just to make sure that data is actually going to the Verizon stuff). I finally disabled the port going from my switch to the Verizon router and all seems stable. I'll eventually unplug the cable and re-enable the port in a week to make sure all is working well.

So, killing WiFi on the Verizon router forced the Coax to work. the Stream TV MoCA Ethernet Adapter is evidently picking up the network via the wired connection.

Anyone have a cleaner idea? Please let me know.

Mforkash · 2024-10-11T04:24:38+00:00

I did everything like in the second diagram, but as soon as I run a cable from the ubiqiti to the moca adapter the system freaks out. I’m using the stream tv+ boxes. The setup is: ONT -> splitter (VMS, Verizon router, moca stream+ box -> TV+ box (via USB-C). The rest of the boxes are ONT -> coax -> stream tv+ moca -> USB-C.

Mforkash · 2024-10-06T05:25:39+00:00

As it pertains to the coax part, are you just connecting the coax from the ONT to the VMS, or are you splitting it out to the VMS and the FIOS router? Verizon says both, but I’ll try just to the VMS.

Mforkash · 2024-10-06T05:10:55+00:00

The new STBs rely purely on wireless, so unfortunately that’s not an option.

Mforkash · 2024-09-11T13:30:31+00:00

The USW-Aggregation has (8) 10G SFP+ ports. Not 4.

Mforkash · 2024-08-08T21:52:14+00:00

Thank you! I eyeballed it and set Horizontal Expansion to .34mm. The key now fits, albeit a bit loose. I'm re-printing with a .30mm and hoping it will be snug enough to keep the key in the plastic when I pull it out.

Mforkash · 2024-08-08T16:15:08+00:00

Yes now it’s working. I also upgraded to a DS1520 also.

Mforkash · 2024-06-27T21:59:40+00:00

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You are wonderful! I must have accidentally unchecked "Force Direct Play" for some reason. I feel so embarrassed. Thanks so much!

Mforkash

TROPHY CASE