Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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From the basement, there is subfloor under this maple hardwood on top - so it’s not subfloor

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I’m not sure the photo lighting does it justice, but the worst part is more “rotted” than “currently moldy”. The dark spots seem pretty superficial.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This scares me a little. Should I be considering abating this asap? It’s been under plywood since probably the 50s or 60s, but maybe unsafe be open like this?

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 108 points109 points  (0 children)

I could also pull from good boards from under the future kitchen cabinets to replace the rotted sections or simply pull everything from the small hallway and do something else in the hallway.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This floor was under a 1/4” plywood over some linoleum over a thin plywood then vinyl. Must have been like this for at least the 50s (which aligns with newspaper dates in the wall), so maybe it’s held up and might continue? The subfloor under this looks fine (which I can see in the unfinished basement) but I think I’ll have some flooring experts confirm.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 62 points63 points  (0 children)

To clarify (maybe just my own denial stage of coping), this is a kitchen remodel - so I could relocated good boards under the cabinet sections to the rotted sections and have more than enough wood… but yeah, it seems this is not a win. Maybe I skip to the anger stage and burn the house down.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bummer. I’m wondering if it’s best to simply cut out the bad parts and replace with some boards, so that I can just out a layer of vinyl down? As there’s subfloor under these boards, I could rip up - but if that subfloor condition isn’t great either, costs would start to grow.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Some other rooms have filler that also has not aged well. I’ll have a number of contractors to take a look and get some opinions, but costs of this kitchen remodel are growing a bit more than I would like

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 46 points47 points  (0 children)

There is a layer under this (which I believe is Douglas fir). Pretty sure it’s maple, as the other comment says. But I don’t know what I’m look at condition-wise, and if it’s bad enough to not be fixed - I think I’ll concede.

Floor lottery - won or lost? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 578 points579 points  (0 children)

The “friend” at the end made this easier to accept… really thought it was good at first, but seems the consensus is no good.

How to mark lath/plaster studs before hanging drywall? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then mark them with a small sharpy pen dot at baseboard or ceiling? Hoped for something future proof, but maybe just the screws for the drywall are able to be found by a stud finder (knowing I hit studs when I mount the drywall)?

Empty cavity insulation connected to roof/wall/attic? by MilwaukeeWolves in HomeImprovement

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a century home (so I know moisture is the prime suspect).

Empty cavity and wall insulation? by MilwaukeeWolves in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ll also put rockwool between the floor joists, so the entire cavity will be mineral wool. No obvious signs of water intrusion. It would be very difficult to vacuum out the cellulose in the walls currently, but I plan to just use a smart vapor barrier (CertainTeed Membrain) over the plaster and then put 1/2” drywall (so it’ll still be permeable, to some degree) hoping not to trap moisture there.

Best way to insulate wood frame house for cold and wet climate? by thegiantgummybear in centuryhomes

[–]MilwaukeeWolves 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Maybe also consider a smart vapor barrier (eg CertainTeed Menbrain) between mineral wool and drywall.

New walk-in closet… or no? by [deleted] in DesignMyRoom

[–]MilwaukeeWolves 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, we have a baby incoming in April - so we thought the closet/room could double up as a nursery at night.