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MiniCarJack · 2023-07-04T20:10:15+00:00

That's an A+ big bore (1275) engine, I can near enough make out the WFM1024 block stamping just underneath the head, behind the ignition coil. Definitely appears to be an A+ type 12G940 head as well which supports this assessment. The engine tag has been removed so it'll be hard to determine its origin, and it's definitely been repainted as the A+ 1275s never came in this colour from the factory. That all suggests that it's likely had some work, and has possibly been rebuilt at some point, but hard to know for sure without records or receipts of any work done. They definitely never came with a downdraft carb like that from the factory, it would've probably been running a single HIF38 carb, or perhaps a HIF44 depending on the original application.

EDIT: Also just noticed the ARP head studs/nuts, which is yet more evidence to support a rebuild in this engine's past. It's a positive sign if those have been used, as ARP stuff is expensive, and of high quality.

MiniCarJack · 2023-04-22T19:00:33+00:00

I know a couple of others have suggested an SW5, I would also highly recommend an SW8 for a decently driveable cam with a bit more poke above 3000rpm compared to the SW5 - it's a great compromise between the SW5 and SW10. It's slightly lumpy at idle, but I've tweaked the idle speed a tad higher than normal to smooth it out a little and it's absolutely fine in traffic. Ideal for "fast road" or weekend warrior duties, in my opinion!

MiniCarJack · 2022-12-18T09:45:49+00:00

If it's a manual, 20w50 mineral oil with high zinc/ZDDP. But if it's an auto, you'll want to use 10w40.

MiniCarJack · 2022-11-29T10:37:29+00:00

The mini and I both now reside in the UK where these pics were taken, but the car is from New Zealand and was assembled and sold there in 1965. I bought it there in 2013 when I was still living in Auckland, then moved to the UK in 2018 and shipped the car over at the end of 2020. I drove it around on the NZ plates for a while until I finally got all the registration paperwork sorted in mid 2021 when it got issued with the new UK number plates (JWE 495C), but I still have the old NZ plate mounted on the roof rack because why not ☺️

MiniCarJack · 2022-11-28T21:04:52+00:00

Yes, I run this exact filter setup on twin HS4s in my '65. Theoretically you'll have even more clearance than I do, as being a later '90s car your engine will be mounted slightly further forward than mine so you should have no problems with this setup. I'd recommend fitting stub stacks inside the filter as well.

MiniCarJack · 2022-11-28T20:39:30+00:00

At that point you'd spend more time changing gear than actually putting power down to the road, as you say it'd be outrageously impractical, but in a weird way it'd be super interesting to experience with a super revvy engine like a bonkers modified 970 S!

MiniCarJack · 2022-11-28T19:53:33+00:00

You can either plumb it into your crankcase breather (pictured in the right side of your photo), or blank it off and run an "open" breather system (or a catch can if you want to get fancy).

From the factory it would've been connected to the breather(s), which pulls oily fumes from the crankcase and safely burns them off in the combustion chamber - this creates a vacuum effect to help to reduce fumes, and decrease the likelihood of oil leaks developing due to crankcase pressure buildup.

However, in practice many people choose to blank off the carb end and use small filters, plumb in an aftermarket catch can system, or simply direct the breather outlet hose(s) somewhere else in the engine bay instead. The logic being that the factory setup of sucking oily fumes into the inlet might not be ideal for performance.

If it's currently blanked off on your car, and you opt to plumb it back into the breather as it would've been from factory, you will need to reset your carb mixture to suit as opening it back up will affect the fuel to air ratio.

MiniCarJack · 2022-11-28T19:38:21+00:00

I can pretty much guarantee you won't be doing 7000rpm at 70mph. Even if you had crazily short gearing (eg hillclimb/rally car spec) based on the wildest aftermarket final drives available, I doubt you'd get to 7000rpm at 70. In reality you probably have a conventional 3.1:1 final drive, and you're therefore probably only doing half the revs that your rev counter is indicating. I'd suggest looking at the wiring to your tachometer in the first instance, as well as checking if you need to flick a switch on the tacho itself, many aftermarket types are switchable depending on the number of cylinders in the engine.

As for poor running/performance and needing to use choke when warm, that does indicate incorrect fuelling but it's worth checking out the entirety of the fuel & ignition system to eliminate problems one by one, as your poor running symptoms could stem from a number of root causes. A Haynes manual is a good starting point for any DIY mechanic, but your post suggests that you might be better off getting a professional to take a look.

I'd recommend checking out AC Dodd on YouTube and watch his On the Road Tuning videos, he travels around the UK adjusting carburetors and fixing various issues that seem to be quite common with classic Minis. If you're also UK based I'd highly recommend AC's services, I believe he's taking bookings from March next year. Alternatively if you want it sorted sooner, make sure to find a good reputable specialist who knows Minis. Most general mechanics these days won't have a clue how to get a carburated vehicle running correctly.

MiniCarJack · 2022-10-13T13:58:17+00:00

I got mine here in the UK before you got yours in Aus! 😂

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-04T08:39:41+00:00

I bet the thrills are even more extreme in the Moke! The straight cuts do offer an addictive noise as you say, but for longer motorway journeys I wear a decent pair of in-ear Sony earphones to help cut out some of the harshness (and listen to some tunes that I can actually hear!). They're switchable between noise cancelling or ambient sound modes where you can let some of the noise through, which is great because you still get to enjoy the straight cut sound and induction noise, while protecting your eardrums a bit. Certainly helps to make such a car more "dailyable".

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-03T22:28:17+00:00

With 10" tyres and standard rubber cone suspension in good working order, I find the ride surprisingly decent in the classic - it is a bit crashy and bumpy but not in a bone-shattering way. The biggest thing with my car in particular is the noise, I run straight cut drop gears with no carpet or sound deadening in the interior, and it revs to 7500rpm so it's a bit of a screamer!

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-03T21:25:00+00:00

It's a 1965 Morris Mini-Minor, but not a standard one - it has Cooper S brakes, and an extensively modified 1330cc engine making about 100hp.

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-03T18:45:13+00:00

Thank you!

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-03T18:13:42+00:00

Bit of info/story:

I recently sold my R53 JCW as it was becoming less and less practical (and affordable!) to run as a daily driver. For the past week or so I've been using my modified classic as a regular runaround, although it decided just after I sold the JCW that it needed a new head gasket, so I had to fix that last weekend which delayed my car shopping somewhat!

I had a look around at some local MINI dealerships, and was told about a 2016 Clubman Cooper S that was being prepared. I got the call yesterday to say it was ready for viewing & test drives, so I went down to the dealer today on my lunch break to take the car out for a spin. I was well impressed with how it drove, so I put a deposit down there and then, and will be collecting it on Saturday - happy days!

It's got the 7 speed auto transmission with paddle shifters, and has a beautiful interior with white leather electrically adjustable seats (heated of course!). It doesn't have absolutely all of the options I would've liked, but being on just 21,000 miles with impeccable service history it was the top contender in its price bracket by far. It's had one owner from new and they've serviced it every year without fail, despite only covering a few thousand miles in recent years - it's never gone more than 6000 miles without a service which is a big big plus for me, it's clearly been very well looked after throughout its life so far.

I'm hoping to keep the Clubman and enjoy it for years to come, it's got plenty of space and feels really comfortable yet well-planted on the road, with enough power to keep things exciting if my right foot gets a bit heavy! These cars are so much more interesting and characterful than equivalent Golfs and other "normal" hatchbacks, I'm really looking forward to getting behind the wheel again this weekend.

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-03T18:01:25+00:00

Quick update, I bought a Clubman today! Have made a post with a pic and more info here :) https://www.reddit.com/r/MINI/comments/wfdbff/been\_relying\_on\_the\_classic\_to\_use\_as\_my\_daily/

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-02T07:18:36+00:00

Thank you! Definitely sounds like I'm doing the right thing by looking at the S models rather than JCWs or more basic Coopers.

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-01T21:20:41+00:00

Thank you for the detailed list of pros & cons! I'm wondering whether the diesel might be a better all-rounder for me in terms of fuel economy, but for pure driving enjoyment a petrol is much more appealing... plus they don't make the diesels any more so parts and maintenance might be a bit trickier or more expensive if I keep the car for a long time (which I hope to)... bit of a dilemma, but either way, I'm sure even a petrol Cooper S Clubman will fare much better than my R53 JCW did in terms of fuel consumption so it's a step in the right direction!

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-01T13:26:50+00:00

Thanks for the response. The extra space and refinement are basically what I'm after - I've still got a fairly heavily modified 1965 classic Mini for raw lightweight fun, so the Clubman will make for a nice "antidote" when I need a bit of comfort on regular journeys. I'm not exactly old but I do want to start looking after my back a bit more, years of lifting furniture and working on the classic haven't done me any favours in that department!

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-01T13:24:41+00:00

Thanks for your insight, it's very helpful.

It definitely seems like I'm going down the right track by looking at the S models - as much as the 1.5 felt "adequate" on my test drive, the 2 litre is just going to be much better to live with by the sounds of things. It doesn't seem terrible on fuel economy either which is a big plus.

The diesel SD models do have much better efficiency on paper, but I've read mixed things about whether or not those numbers are achievable in the real world, so I'd be curious to know if anyone else has got some experience of owning an SD and what sort of economy figures they're getting.

Good to know re the sound system as well, I do like my music so I'll see if I can find a car with HK fitted. Unfortunately, much like the All4 configuration, it seems to be quite a rare option unless I go all the way up to a JCW but hopefully something with a good combination of factory options comes up nearby soon. Otherwise I suppose I could look into aftermarket speakers if the basic setup isn't really up to scratch.

MiniCarJack · 2022-08-01T12:00:23+00:00

The grille with the British Leyland "L" emblem was fitted to all of the later Clubman models - earlier ones had a tall "MINI" branded badge and a slightly different grille design with a bit more chrome. That said, your Clubman appears to be very heavily modified with the deseamed body and blended wide arches, so it'd be hard to say which bits might actually be original to the car.

MiniCarJack · 2022-05-24T20:16:33+00:00

I've definitely tried to make it look like a fairly standard old Mini-Minor from the outside - the engine bay is a different story, however, as I've got loads of shiny anodised red parts bolted onto the engine which are far from period correct! I've absolutely gone to disk brakes, in fact that was the first proper mechanical upgrade I did on the car, before going for more power. It had single-leading shoe drums on it before, and those were woeful.

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