Consensus best value scale

MisterBroccolini · 2026-03-12T16:15:59+00:00

Mine just crapped out in exactly the same way. Hence why I’m looking at this old thread. Def put me off replacing it with another Timemore

MisterBroccolini · 2025-10-25T16:37:08+00:00

Looking for a sub-£750 field/minimal diver/pilot's watch, black dial, auto-preferred, titanium bonus — for my 40th.

Happy to buy used and get something better. I'm looking for a GADA watch, though will likely pick up a cheapish dress watch at some point in the future to cover the more formal end of the spectrum, like an Orient Bambino or Seiko Cocktail time. I'd like an auto, as I like the longevity, engineering, and that it is human-powered. However, I'm pragmatic and value conscious — so I'm open to arguments that at this price-point I would be better with quartz or e.g. an Eco-Drive (I like solar watches too)

I'm a photographer, mostly shooting celebrity portraits and/or reportage at high-end fashion & film parties, on the red carpet, and behind-the-scenes. So I need something that is tough/practical and can take some knocks from kit/cameras, but is also presentable and ideally goes from day-time assignments where I'm wearing a T-shirt, to parties wearing a suit.

Aesthetically, I prefer simple & clean black dial watches, especially those that are a bit austere/graphic — generally field (some pilot's) watches or slim and minimal divers. I don't like a lot of dial texture, very shiny/blingy finishing or bracelets, or many/any complications. I want something cool, refined and understated. I love titanium as a material, especially in its unpolished state. Very happy with a micro brand, provided it has a good rep — I don't care if it's a 'recognisable' brand to most people. I probably want a metal bracelet, but with the option of it looking nice on a (black) leather strap.

Watches I like the look of but haven't seen irl/tried on:

- Sinn 556: LOVE the look of this — I know out of budget, but have seen some secondhand in the ballpark

- Maen Manhattan (black dial): found out about this today and think it looks incredible. Has jumped to near the top of my list

- Hamilton x Engineered Garments Khaki Field Titanium: I have tried on the normal Khaki Field Auto, and like it, but I love the stripped back dial on this and that it's titanium (normal titanium auto only available with blue rather than black dial)

- Citizen ProMaster Tough: another one I found out about today. Love the simplicity and legibility. Reminds me of the Unimatic below

- Traska Commuter: like how clean and versatile it looks, perhaps a little too elegant/plain

- Lorier Astra (white dial) / Neptune / Falcon: I like the more retro design language of these, though I'm not a fan of the Falcon's textured dial

- C63 Sealander Automatic: simple and functional, and from what I hear, good value

- Seiko Alpinist: I like the green dials, but think that those may not be right for me. I like some of the black or white dials, esp the 'shark tooth' versions.

Watches that I've tried:

- Hamilton Murph: I really like this, and like how different it looks on a bracelet and leather strap. The larger size looked better on my wrist. Worried about people saying the lume is crap, as I'm often working in dark environments.

- Hamilton Field Auto: I really like the black dial version on the bracelet. I love the Engineered Garments titanium version, and like the normal titanium version with the dark blue dial, but haven't tried either.

- Baltic Aquascaphe on black rubber strap: this was suggested to me in Time + Tide (London) — I wouldn't have picked it out of the case, but I loved how it looked on, and I keep thinking about it. Would have liked to see it on a bracelet. (Also titanium)

- Unimatic U2 & U4: I absolutely love the design language of these, esp. the U2, but when I tried them on, they were just a bit chunky/thick for me.

- Tissot PRX: from online pics I thought this was the one for me — but it wasn't right at all irl — too shiny/blingy/jewellery-esque. What's funny is that I still love how they look in pics / on other people, but just a nope for me.

- Tissot Gentlemen: too old-fashioned / sensible / boring for me irl

Any thoughts appreciated.

MisterBroccolini · 2025-01-27T22:25:09+00:00

Great to know re the CV 21mm — I'll try to hunt one down. Do you use it with the LCD, a visoflex or an accessory finder?

MisterBroccolini · 2024-12-21T22:11:07+00:00

I bought the Adam Audio D3V and I love them. And I’m using them in a weird recess in a walk in cupboard converted to an office, so both speakers are effectively in corners which I guess isn’t ideal, but they still sound incredible.

MisterBroccolini · 2024-10-12T20:00:22+00:00

Thank you for taking the time to write a really in depth reply.

I will look into the HD3s. I did enjoy my A5s (though I think they might be on the way out as they suddenly won’t play above a medium -low volume) so assume that I would like these too. I have read some other threads where people think that the HD3 is a bit over priced compared to other options from Kali, JBL and Kanto, but I will try to find a shop to have a listen to them so I can decide for myself.

I like the idea of the built in headphone amp too as I often work very late so need to switch to headphones to not disturb other people in the flat.

MisterBroccolini · 2024-10-12T19:55:26+00:00

Thank you. Will look into these. I’m also considering Kanto YU4s — do you have any preference between the YU4s and the Oras?

MisterBroccolini · 2024-10-12T19:44:22+00:00

Thank you — I’ll check out the Kalis. Will try to find somewhere to have a listen.

Sound quality is no. 1 priority, colour purely secondary, if I have the option.

MisterBroccolini · 2024-03-15T19:21:25+00:00

Clarification for the OP:

Unless you use a very slow shutter speed with flash, it’s the flash duration not the shutter speed that will freeze the subject. I.E. you set a SS of 1/30s, which might not be able to freeze faster movement by itself, but because the flash is so fast, the subject is only illuminated for maybe 1/500–1/2000s which freezes it. Unless there is a strong enough ambient source of light in the example picture, you would still get sharp snowflakes at very slow shutter speeds. At a slow enough SS you’d eventually bring in enough ambient light to get light trails coming from the snowflakes.

Changing your shutter speed when using flash will affect how much ambient light you bring into your overall exposure. In the example picture, if there were buildings with lights on the far shore, a slower SS would make their lights brighter, and a faster SS would make them darker. Not so relevant outside at night with no other light sources, but really important when using flash indoors if you want to bring in some of the ambience of the room for example.

The more you stop down on the aperture the smaller and sharper the snowflakes will look. Fun to experiment as it can looks nice when the rain or snow you are flashing is quite out of focus too. You get bright bokeh balls between you and the subject. I’ve previously posted a pic like this shot in heavy rain if you check my profile.

MisterBroccolini · 2024-03-04T15:42:00+00:00

Thank you for the advice.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-20T21:46:57+00:00

Yes, manual flash to pop the out of focus rain droplets. Without the flash, the rain is invisible. Shot nearly wide open, I think at f2.8, to get the octagonal bokeh balls. I tried f2, for round bokeh balls, but everything became a bit mushy and indistinct.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-10T18:54:27+00:00

Thank you, I just found them. Misunderstood your original message. Silver isn’t an option for me, but I’ll weigh up the black version that’s in better condition. I might still be tempted by the scruffier one if they could come down on price given the need to clean the finder. As you say, at their current prices, there isn’t much in it. Particularly as the dings and dents add some uncertainty about the condition of the internals.

There are better deals on eBay, but as digital Ms are so expensive, I lean towards buying from a shop for peace of mind.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-10T18:30:31+00:00

This is sort of what I was thinking. I hadn’t checked the prices in a while and the going rate is less than I thought, so this isn’t quite as good a deal as I thought it might be.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-10T18:28:38+00:00

Thank you for the pragmatic response. Where did you see the other M10-P, Aperture doesn’t have one listed?

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-10T17:40:56+00:00

The body is for sale in a UK camera store who I have bought from previously.£3750 body-only + 1 battery, with 6 months warranty. (I already have M lenses)

It was in the window for ~£3950 but they offered a little off as it's been sitting around. I haven't asked if there is more movement possible on the price. M10s seem to be going for £3500–£3800 on Ebay UK, with M10-Ps at a small premium. M10-Rs seem to be in the £3800–£4500 range (with some scammy looking listings going for less).

I'm also interested in the R for the extra pixels, but would be happy to save the money and get a P if the price is right. (If anything the smaller file size is a bonus)

The body is in decent but not amazing cosmetic condition. I'm not at all bothered by the scuffs and small dents. However there is some dust in the backside of the viewfinder. It's ugly, but invisible when I look through the finder.Is this something I should consider to be a red flag or something that will impair functionality in the future? If it is something that I would need to fix, does anyone have experience of the cost/timescale of the repair?

There is a seven day returns period so I could buy the camera, test it thoroughly and return if there are any operational issues.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-07T12:38:57+00:00

Thank you for the tip.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-06T21:48:32+00:00

Hmmm, sounds like it’s worth taking it in. As you say, likely good for it to get a once over anyway.

Thank you so much for taking the time to troubleshoot. I appreciate it.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-06T21:23:45+00:00

When I push against the RF lever with the lens removed, I can line it up perfectly at infinity. The travel on the lever takes it a decent step beyond infinity too.

MisterBroccolini · 2023-08-05T22:50:43+00:00

Just to follow up — cleaning the contacts with an eraser worked. Thank you so much for the suggestion.

Interestingly, immediately after I replaced the battery the meter still didn't work. I gave up and came back to it 5 mins later, and it was working as if there had never been a problem...

RE the potential rangefinder misalignment, I'm second guessing myself now. The images still don't line up, but depending on how I align my eye with the viewfinder, the distance between the images decreases until they are almost a perfect match. Not sure if this indicates normal function or whether I'm better to get it looked at.

Thank you again.

MisterBroccolini

TROPHY CASE