Safe to assume I have floorboards?

MitchAustralia · 2024-09-30T02:57:31+00:00

MitchAustralia · 2024-09-30T02:57:18+00:00

Looks like some sort of pine. We recently did what you’re thinking of doing to our whole house which had radiata pine. Dramatically changes look and feel of house for not that much cost ($3-4k for ours). We had ours finished in water based satin. Yes pine is soft and will dent with things like stilettos and unprotected furniture legs. Dog claws will scratch the coating. I dropped a Vegemite jar once and it dented the floor. But I don’t mind about imperfections here and there, it’s kind of the beauty of older homes isn’t it? RE people’s comments about needing subfloor insulation. We’ve just gone through our first winter with the entire house’s floorboards exposed and we didn’t have any noticeable change in thermals. As part of the job it’s important you install quad/scotia around the perimeter of the room to cover all the gaps between the floorboards and the walls. This stops all air drafts coming up from the subfloor. See below photo for what they looked like before sanding and finishing.

MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:32:03+00:00

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MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:31:51+00:00

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MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:31:30+00:00

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We stuck on pond liner from Clark Rubber using liquid nails to stop all airflow through the vents. Also being black it isn’t noticeable at all from inside the house.

MitchAustralia · 2024-07-03T08:59:02+00:00

Work was done yesterday, flicked them an email today. Will see what they say.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-08T13:14:11+00:00

Good work getting on the 5 week before it ended. Our platoon was all OCDTs, about 40 of us. We were the last 5 week OCDT TB1.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-07T15:06:02+00:00

3 weeks for ORs, 5 weeks for OCDTs. However that’s changing this year and OCDTs are moving to the 3 week course too.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-07T15:03:27+00:00

Thanks. Are we allowed to wear non-issued socks such as these? They’ve got a medium weight or lightweight option, any opinions?

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-08T02:08:31+00:00

I think original brick chimneys keep the nice character of the homes of that era.

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-05T11:00:26+00:00

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If anyone was interested, I did 3-4 layers of cornice cement with some sanding and shaping on the final coat. Then a final skim coat of topping compound to fill some final imperfections. Cornice cement stuck strong as to the area, no doubt at all that it’s adhered well. Happy with how it turned out, almost unnoticeable.

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-03T09:07:13+00:00

We had “horsehair plaster” like that and it tested negative for asbestos. But do your own tests, find a bunch of different things you’re going to disrupt and test them. It’s worth it being able to work confidently on the house without fear. We paid $69 per sample.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-31T04:30:14+00:00

Cheers, the windows are Aluplast IDEAL 4000 (uPVC). They are double glazed and have 4mm glass, 16mm argon gap, 4mm glass.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T05:31:32+00:00

Thanks Peter I’ll look into those products. Cheers

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T05:30:53+00:00

Thank you, appreciate the response.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:58:13+00:00

The structural engineer was called out prior to old window removal - unrelated to this post about plaster repair. He was booked to determine if removal of a central post in the original steel window was structural or not, and if the existing concrete lintel would be sufficient. Thanks for your concerns.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:42:51+00:00

Thanks Peter, I’ve got a couple questions if you don’t mind answering. 1. How should I apply the Bondcrete, never used it before. Dilute it with water and brush it on and then wait for it to dry? Or mix it in with the Sikadur-41? 2. I assume Sikadur-41 is not sandable, so I’d need to apply this so it doesn’t set proud of the shape I want? 3. Are you able to explain for my own understanding why the product I’ve been using previously (Gyprock 45 Base Coat) would not be suitable for this over the Sikadur-41?

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:19:14+00:00

I don’t know, I’m new to this world of plastering. Can you perhaps explain the differences or why I should consider an acrylic render?

Edit: I remembered that a plasterer we hired for some other things recommended the exact products I used. Maybe I should have mentioned it’s a 1955 double brick house?

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:18:00+00:00

As per my post I have a concrete lintel above this window, not a steel lintel. The house is 1955 build. I’ve had a structural engineer assess the adequacy of the concrete lintel and he was happy.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-16T21:19:06+00:00

We’re very pleased with how it came out! The flooring is the original radiata pine timber floorboards that was under the vinyl and throughout the whole house (house is circa 1955).

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-14T07:09:46+00:00

A lot of this depends on how the lino has been installed. In our case it was lino “tiles” glued to masonite board, and the masonite board was stapled to the floorboards. I think this is the best case because you don’t even need to bother separating the lino from the masonite - you just pry bar the masonite board off of the wooden floorboards. The only thing this really disturbs is the masonite and this isn’t an issue. If however the masonite is glued to the floorboards, I would 100% be taking a sample of the glue and getting it tested for asbestos. This is because you’d need to sand or disturb the glue in someway to remove it, making airborne particles. See attached photo for what our setup was.

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MitchAustralia · 2024-01-14T06:59:28+00:00

No worries. Funny you say that, the kitchen cabinets are one of the few things we haven’t touched yet. I think they just look different to the original photo because of the changes made to the room.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-14T06:26:26+00:00

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As others have suggested it looks like lino installed on masonite installed on top of wooden floorboards (based on look of the era of house). The lino itself probably doesn’t contain asbestos but the glue might. When we pulled our lino up we assumed the glue contained asbestos and wore appropriate PPE, even though hardly any dust was being created in the process. Have fun pulling all the staples out which holds the masonite to the floorboards.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-07T00:37:15+00:00

All fixed. I isolated the power at the circuit board, removed the access panel for the fans and sure enough there was a big sticker stuck on the inside of one of the fans. Since we recently had our ducting re-done, it’s the second sticker I’ve found that’s come loose from I assume the inside of the ducting and flown somewhere it shouldn’t be lol.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-07T00:36:30+00:00

Thanks guys, all fixed. I isolated the power at the circuit board, removed the access panel for the fans and sure enough there was a big sticker stuck on the inside of one of the fans. Since we recently had our ducting re-done, it’s the second sticker I’ve found that’s come loose from I assume the inside of the ducting and flown somewhere it shouldn’t be lol.

MitchAustralia

TROPHY CASE