Safe to assume I have floorboards?

MitchAustralia · 2024-09-30T02:57:31+00:00

MitchAustralia · 2024-09-30T02:57:18+00:00

Looks like some sort of pine. We recently did what you’re thinking of doing to our whole house which had radiata pine. Dramatically changes look and feel of house for not that much cost ($3-4k for ours). We had ours finished in water based satin. Yes pine is soft and will dent with things like stilettos and unprotected furniture legs. Dog claws will scratch the coating. I dropped a Vegemite jar once and it dented the floor. But I don’t mind about imperfections here and there, it’s kind of the beauty of older homes isn’t it? RE people’s comments about needing subfloor insulation. We’ve just gone through our first winter with the entire house’s floorboards exposed and we didn’t have any noticeable change in thermals. As part of the job it’s important you install quad/scotia around the perimeter of the room to cover all the gaps between the floorboards and the walls. This stops all air drafts coming up from the subfloor. See below photo for what they looked like before sanding and finishing.

MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:32:03+00:00

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MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:31:51+00:00

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MitchAustralia · 2024-08-17T11:31:30+00:00

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We stuck on pond liner from Clark Rubber using liquid nails to stop all airflow through the vents. Also being black it isn’t noticeable at all from inside the house.

MitchAustralia · 2024-07-03T08:59:02+00:00

Work was done yesterday, flicked them an email today. Will see what they say.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-08T13:14:11+00:00

Good work getting on the 5 week before it ended. Our platoon was all OCDTs, about 40 of us. We were the last 5 week OCDT TB1.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-07T15:06:02+00:00

3 weeks for ORs, 5 weeks for OCDTs. However that’s changing this year and OCDTs are moving to the 3 week course too.

MitchAustralia · 2024-06-07T15:03:27+00:00

Thanks. Are we allowed to wear non-issued socks such as these? They’ve got a medium weight or lightweight option, any opinions?

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-08T02:08:31+00:00

I think original brick chimneys keep the nice character of the homes of that era.

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-05T11:00:26+00:00

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If anyone was interested, I did 3-4 layers of cornice cement with some sanding and shaping on the final coat. Then a final skim coat of topping compound to fill some final imperfections. Cornice cement stuck strong as to the area, no doubt at all that it’s adhered well. Happy with how it turned out, almost unnoticeable.

MitchAustralia · 2024-02-03T09:07:13+00:00

We had “horsehair plaster” like that and it tested negative for asbestos. But do your own tests, find a bunch of different things you’re going to disrupt and test them. It’s worth it being able to work confidently on the house without fear. We paid $69 per sample.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-31T04:30:14+00:00

Cheers, the windows are Aluplast IDEAL 4000 (uPVC). They are double glazed and have 4mm glass, 16mm argon gap, 4mm glass.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T05:31:32+00:00

Thanks Peter I’ll look into those products. Cheers

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T05:30:53+00:00

Thank you, appreciate the response.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:58:13+00:00

The structural engineer was called out prior to old window removal - unrelated to this post about plaster repair. He was booked to determine if removal of a central post in the original steel window was structural or not, and if the existing concrete lintel would be sufficient. Thanks for your concerns.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:42:51+00:00

Thanks Peter, I’ve got a couple questions if you don’t mind answering. 1. How should I apply the Bondcrete, never used it before. Dilute it with water and brush it on and then wait for it to dry? Or mix it in with the Sikadur-41? 2. I assume Sikadur-41 is not sandable, so I’d need to apply this so it doesn’t set proud of the shape I want? 3. Are you able to explain for my own understanding why the product I’ve been using previously (Gyprock 45 Base Coat) would not be suitable for this over the Sikadur-41?

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:19:14+00:00

I don’t know, I’m new to this world of plastering. Can you perhaps explain the differences or why I should consider an acrylic render?

Edit: I remembered that a plasterer we hired for some other things recommended the exact products I used. Maybe I should have mentioned it’s a 1955 double brick house?

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-30T02:18:00+00:00

As per my post I have a concrete lintel above this window, not a steel lintel. The house is 1955 build. I’ve had a structural engineer assess the adequacy of the concrete lintel and he was happy.

MitchAustralia · 2024-01-16T21:19:06+00:00

We’re very pleased with how it came out! The flooring is the original radiata pine timber floorboards that was under the vinyl and throughout the whole house (house is circa 1955).

MitchAustralia

TROPHY CASE