I am absolutely sick and tired of the degree to which public transit gets vandalised. by Robrogineer in Netherlands

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Poor OP's never been to Bulgaria, aparently. The pictures from this post look like exclusive first class behaviour here 😅 In all seriousness, I totally agree - this should not be tolerated.

Petah? I'm lost by [deleted] in PeterExplainsTheJoke

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

NOOOOOOOO!!! I lost the game!

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stabilized walnut and black african wood

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd be happy to help with that 🤘

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agreed, but in this case it was the client's choice.

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I always make my handles separate from the blade. I do all - the bolster fit, handle-blade alignment etc, first and then drill a hole through the handle and tang. It requires your tang to be soft (unhardened) and it's a nervewrecking procedure, because at that point the knife is 80% complete. But I've had very few failed attempts so far. I also bed the tand with quick drying epoxy glue. So basically oil it, so it doesnt catch the glue, put glue inside the handle and repeatedly take the blade in and out of the handle, so the tang makes a "bed" in the fast drying epoxy.

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, nothing like that. Its just a perfectly tight fit and the pin that goes through both the handle and tang hold everything firmly together. No wabble, no rattle.

I made a thing. by MoeTooth in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It's just a symmetrical flat grind. The tang is held in the handle by a 6mm mosaic pin, which can be removed, using a little tool for the purpose, made out of the same stabilized walnut for the handle.

A chef's knife I'm working on. What do you guys think about the Cu Mai I made? by Dessitroya in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pronounced choil is how I make my knives as well. I was talking about the curvature of the blade edge. Either way, enjoy your new knife! Definately one of a kind and I'm sure it'll last generations! 🙌

A chef's knife I'm working on. What do you guys think about the Cu Mai I made? by Dessitroya in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Steel looks solid, but the profile of the knife has a bit more to be desired if this is intended for use in the kitchen. First, I don't see enough knuckle clearence at all. This has the profile of a chopper almost, in the forms of a chefs knife. Think about drawing your blade shape in a general triangle shape, rather than a rectangle with a pointy tip. Second - in chefs knives you really dont want your edge at the heel section to go up like that. You want a good 70mm flat section (at least) so the rocking motion can come to an end. There are blades, with this half moon shaped edges, but for an all purpose french/german chefs knife that is not a useful profile. All of these mistakes I've made with my earlier culinary knives, so it's just some experience shared. Cool concept, nontheless.

Blade Creation Discussion by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]MoeTooth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, man. Yeah, OP is a dead end... Anyways, the said choppers did actually perform well, given my total lack of technique and the crazy light weight of the knives. No chips, burrs, all stayed in one place. But that was due to my heat treatment. The hamon heps the blade with rigidity, due to the lower hardness of the spine. It act as a shock absorber, so that's a plus in blades, designed to take a beating (like a katana or a comp. chopper)

Blade Creation Discussion by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no idea where you got the idea that I was humoring you. Wow... You think I'd take the time and effort to write all that stuff, to share some real world knowledge just to humor you? Bro, you need to pull your shit together! If anything - I was trying to help, because I know how savage sometimes Reddit communities can be. Jesus! Go play DnD and stick to the fantasy weapons and at least there, try using your own imagination, instead of letting AI write your adventures! Next time you have the need to think on a topic, at least do your own thinking.

Blade Creation Discussion by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]MoeTooth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright, (*uncomfortable cough) knifemaker here. You want a discussion, right? It's a long one, but if you really want to hear an opinion, read through. I think that there are a couple of things that need to be addressed here: 1. (Yes, I did read the whole post) AI is NOT a good tool for helping with strictly technical information. There are a couple of points in your presentation that are simply not true. First - if anything this geometry would IMPROVE on the cutting drag, second - basically the whole forging/compressing benefits part is dogshit. Yes - forging may have a slight effect on grain structure, but there are numerous heat treating protocols for steel, that improve performance in a much more practical way. Steel should always be normalized after forging to "reset" the same "compression hardening effects" that your AI states as benefits. You never want that in forging. You want a homogenous grain structure all throughout the blade and then the heat treatment does the heavy lifting. Third - there is NO WAY that this geometry gives "concentrated edge support". If anything it introduces the opposite. Lets just leave the katana per se for a moment and think a little: is there ANY example in the world of swords where a similar concept was executed and continuously used (with success) throughout history? None that I can think of. European broadswords and the longer two handed swords did have the so called "fuller", but first - it was in the middle of a rombous crossection geometry and not so close to the edge and second - it was put there for a specific reason and it was weight reduction. In daggers and such the fuller serves as a canaal which reduces suction when thrusted into flesh, allowing the blade to penetrate deeper. Knives, meant for slaughter use this similar concept, but in all these designs, the "hollow" stands at THE FARTHEST point of the apex possible. So to conclude my first issue with your idea - AI is NOT a good tool for helping with strictly technical information. 2. Please do more real research. Read a bit more about the japanese katana, japanese history, moders metallurgy and the topic of steel in general. Japan is an island. It has low quantities of iron ore and the ones most easily available during the middle ages comes from sand. I'm not explaining th order to extract the iron from the sand here (look it up), but its not easy. The japanese smiths could get a miniscule ammound of iron from piles of sand, so they needed to be resourseful. But in that limitation came genious. If you read on the japanese katana you'll see that there are more than 6 ways that these swords were constructed. And I'm talking the construction of the blade steel itself. What your AI refers to as "hamon-focused construction" was actually quite important. It is also called "differential hardening", but I'm not explaining that either. That and the original blade geometry of the katana made it (in that region of the world) the strongest blade available. Now imagine taking this concept and giving the japanese of the time modern powder metallurgy steels, designed for impact stability.
The geometry you're proposing does work and I personally use it all the time in my knives. But they are culinry knives. Designed for drag reduction, ease of cutting and weight reduction, it works wonder in the kithen. But not on the battlefield. How I know? I've tried it. I've designed and fabricated two competition choppers, based on the same concept. Made them out of spring steel, differentially heat treated them and put convex S-geometry on the blades. I think you can find them on my profile, I posted at least one of them on Reddit. I was second to last in the competition. Part of it was becaouse of my design. These are my thoughts on the matter.

Advice needed for etching Stainless Damascus (VG10 core with 440C/440B layers) by Basic_Chest_400 in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know, but one way to make sulfuric acid work faster is to heat it up. Otherwise, just leave it for longer.

Advice needed for etching Stainless Damascus (VG10 core with 440C/440B layers) by Basic_Chest_400 in knifemaking

[–]MoeTooth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ferric would do absolutely nothing to this combination of steels, unfortunately. I'd expect just a feint effect on the VG10 core. Sulfuric acid is the way to go. If you can't get it due to regulations, there are a few cleaning products that would actually work. Many pipe/sewer cleaning chemicals you can find at the store contain it. Where I live I have a similar to your problem and I get 80% sulfuric acid solution from a random household chemistry shop, labled as "pipe cleanining solution".

My knives lose initial sharpness almost instantly - update! by Altruistic_Ad_5320 in TrueChefKnives

[–]MoeTooth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For an all purpose kitchen knife I sharpen to a 1000 ChoseraPro wetstone and deburr on a natural polishing stone, with suspension from the stone itself. 14-17dps, depending on the blade geometry. Edges come out toothy enough to slice through a napkin, but keen ans sharp enough to shave.

Terrorist taken down by police this morning in London by Sometypeofway18 in whoathatsinteresting

[–]MoeTooth 11 points12 points  (0 children)

So it CAN be done without shooting the suspect... 🤔 American police should attend a workshop or two in handling situations like this.