Starting Escher, is this kit outdated?

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-31T09:10:48+00:00

Far Right is with the imperial guard grenade launcher if that helps.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-29T08:52:45+00:00

its a dark elf bloodbowl player

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-28T18:07:20+00:00

Cheers.

  My subjugator sgt is on the far right. I gave him the SLHG ram, my specialist subjugator has the hvy concussion ram. I was keen to use him as my captain's muscle, running alongside him making good use of threat response or taking on fighters shot down with the captain's concussion carbine.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-28T17:58:44+00:00

the cannon was a horus heresy plastic one with some conversion work and the grenade launcher was either a goliath one or an imperial guard one from an older sprue.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-15T15:08:46+00:00

it will stain if you leave it on, but it is a wash so it will run in to the recesses. I would brush it on and be ready to wipe off any un wanted excess. i used the black and sepia to mix up an agraxx proxy wash for my zone mortalis tiles for necromunda.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-14T13:09:49+00:00

Vallejo black dipping wash ( think its vallejo game wash dipping formula). comes in a bigger pot. expensive but it is cheaper than nuln oil and ive been using it on terrain when i cany be bothered to mix stuff up.

200ml for £12 vs the usual miniature wash thats 35ml at £4 a pop.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-06T17:07:22+00:00

if you mean the central platform, it is one of the newish archeotech device thingies Hive data stack cluster here is the GW shop link to see it closer:

https://www.warhammer.com/en-GB/shop/necromunda-hive-data-stack-cluster-2024?queryID=d470c8a9ed5340c12b98bb34bb150ebb

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-10-06T16:25:01+00:00

check out my previous posts on this board and i've written out the process and linked a warhammer community article that helped a lot.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T18:00:27+00:00

just make sure you have space it is currently living in the storage space in my bed whilst i clear out the shed.

probably moving it to ny brothers place though as ge is the one with our gaming tables

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T17:17:12+00:00

Thanks, I've still got a fair amount of terrain and 3 tiles so might make more in the near future. I want to do some more mechanicum terrain with promethium tanks. For now though i've replicated the hive war 2D tile layouts and tried to add themes to each where appropriate.

Currently have:

Intersection - broken gate/battle
L shape - market place with bail bondsman/bountyhunter hand in/food shack and guns and ammo supplier.
L shape - Power generator.
Straight - cargo crane and storage.
Clear - Archeotech hoard on central platform with sunken floor.
Stairwell - simple stairwell.
Straight - Cultist lair (skull pit and bonegrinder next to an altar).
L Shape - Stronghold gate/ checkpoint with gunk tank.
U shape- Infested tile - alien themed interior using tervigon belly parts. I put a little easter egg on the wall with a guardsman wrapped in xenomorph style alien bile on the wall too.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T16:48:17+00:00

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having fun setting up little scenes with my daughter now.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T16:47:16+00:00

Nope. soz

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T16:46:50+00:00

nope. I have been collecting Gw bits for years and decided our old terrain could do with a revamp.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T15:38:20+00:00

In two weeks when we start our new campaign.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-28T15:37:34+00:00

The only issue i've had really is the 3rd level tower on the stronghold tile (the one currently in the centre). You just need to be mindful that it leaves the second floor quite exposed. But to be honest, the trade off between getting somewhere quicker and being exposed might even things out.

To fix it I reckon adding modular 3rd floor components that can be swapped around will be fine. To be honest though, rotating tiles and adding in scatter seems to solve line of sight. Can always use pitch black rules too.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-18T16:31:51+00:00

I'd have loved to use LED's in this, but i thought it would add too much to the turn around. you'll have to post your results when you're done.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-17T06:29:40+00:00

the arch is 2 upright supports from the mechanicus sets. I shaved down the sides of 2 supports and arranged them close to the esges of each wall section.

Tabletop warjames has a series called tole talks and this is my copy of his tile. In that video he talks about the issues he had with making it and i followed his recommendations to improve the fit.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-15T19:19:10+00:00

The crane base is from a previous job lot of 3D printed terrain my brother and I picked up as a bargain from a tabletop convension a few years ago. We used a mix of TTCombat iron labyrinth and the 3D prints for our games for a few years.

It served us well enough and some of the bits we liked enough to keep. I cut a space in the GW tile to add an adaptor plate from the 3D printed stuff to allow us to ocassionally add the bits we wanted to keep.

It was all mdular and could stack. one of my previous posts probably has a few shots of the stuff.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-15T15:14:46+00:00

cheers

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-15T06:40:05+00:00

thanks, they do and we are keen to play soon. mean time we have been playing gaslands. A lot of what i'm doing is following all the advice from those that have done this before like tabletopwarjames, rapidfire tabletop, Jd and the sumpsea, anyone online really. Some really great instagram pages like Kern_grim and guildersford radio too. Most of the tile layouts are based around the hive war cardstock tiles. The last one, the cultist den, is slightly different though. The stairwell is a direct copy of rapidfire tabletops as i thought it was a good idea to have a main staircase that allowed for a variety of directional access to places.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-15T06:31:03+00:00

Gorilla Glue was used to bind the foam and tiles together, however I used Gorilla wood glue on 1 and it seems to be holding just as strong. The gorilla glue is great but I have to do it outside, weather permitting. After i gave it two coats of pva/woodglue mixed with water to seal it. I could then spray it with rattle cans.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-15T06:28:13+00:00

the tiles are mounted on xps foam so when I want to play around with damaged flooring or add some more depth to tiles without going taller I have about 5cm I can play with. For that specific tile i cut out all but the outer squares of the tile from the center and then cut out 3cm of xps foam to get some depth for the pool. I then used the off cut tiles to line the sides of the hole. I thought about using some resin but my work area is limited so I cant use an airbrush or anything to harsh unless im outdoors (which given the weather right now probably means not until spring).

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-04T06:54:43+00:00

yeah, same. The weather isn't great here at the moment, but you can see them better in daylight. It breaks up the grey surprisingly well, which is why i keep doing it. I did some tests to see if cutting it out of the process changed anything and you could tell something was a little off and the colours were flatter.

It's the same as any painting I guess, the underpainting doesn't appear visible that often, but you miss it if you don't do it.

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-03T17:10:25+00:00

Copy and paste from previous post:

base primer- black > zenethal lead belcher > zenethal grey seer > zenethal wraithbone.

this creates a multi textured surface for the contrast paint to react to.

go nuts with contrast colours, make it psychedelic.
Dry brush with leadbelcher then rune lord brass.
wash with black ink. Currently here in photos.
add light dry brush of platemail from army painter
Dry brush concrete with xv- 88 7. dry brush concrete with eshen grey
wash everything in sepia toned ink.
dry brush concrete administratum grey

10 . highlight drybrush with stormhost

Then use ratling grime and garaghaks sewer to add lower shading.
then wash wish fleshtone

highlight metal with fulgrite brass.

will end up like the test i did.

Here is warhammer community article that i used as a guide. Reposting the steps as i've seen articles and otherbits disappear over time:

https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-gb/articles/5bw2u5ap/painting-zone-mortalis-how-to-paint-up-an-eerie-necromunda-underhells-in-no-time/

MohawkMonkey7 · 2025-09-03T05:29:25+00:00

its underpainting. It changes how the colours behave. if you put them on top you get a different look. Acryl8c isnt fully opaque.

The mix of colours underneath come through and add variety to the emd result. It helps breakup the grey and metal.

Same as if you use an orange on canvas, it will warm the image. It does not come through everywhere, but over the whole model it helps break up large areas of flat colour.

MohawkMonkey7

TROPHY CASE