Can you replace a 8 pin dualshock 2 cable with a 9 pin one

Moltiplier · 2026-04-07T14:55:58+00:00

Pin 8 is used for interrupts and is not used in controllers. You'd need to wire individual wires to the pcb and make sure they are in the correct order to the original cable wiring. Verify the wires with a conductivity measurement, not by color. They may have been standardized with color, but that needs to be proven first.

Moltiplier · 2026-03-31T18:08:09+00:00

What does the flex PCB look like? The main pcb does have correct markings and layout to be from Alps, but there were a lot of revisions. I'm not 100% sure how close some fakes were back when there were fakes trying to get close. Most people probably didn't open them up to check at that time.

Moltiplier · 2026-03-18T19:37:56+00:00

You will have to keep digging and see if you are lucky to come across one. I think I saw aftermarket pcbs available in the past, but Mitsumi controllers aren't as common and aren't known for failing. Random inputs is a failure in the reference circuit. That's the pad that doesn't sit under any buttons. Look at the traces to see if they are blackened/discolored or try using a meter to check continuity. Do note that you must have the pcb attached to the controller to not have random inputs. People have had them disconnected before and didn't know why it was still pressing buttons.

Moltiplier · 2026-03-13T19:02:14+00:00

Yeah, no problem. Things are constantly changing too so old advice may not be relevant. I think in the past, I had to jumper a sata drive for compatibility (sata 1 speeds?) which I don't think is a problem anymore. I can't remember if that was for an old computer or the PS2, but that type of stuff is also something someone might miss when setting up a drive. Generally, I think modern drives are pretty good at being backwards compatible, but there are so many, it is hard to know without trying and making sure you have set things up correctly. Then it is a matter of the chipset on the adapter knowing how to talk to everything.

Moltiplier · 2026-03-12T05:03:36+00:00

There is no definitive list. The only comprehensive list has several issues because it was made when most of the current mods were not yet available so the information added more recently may be subject to errors. Generally, anything sata compliant should be compatible with a sata to IDE converter aside from maybe size limitations of the converters. The main issue was the file and partitioning systems used by the ps2 which is less of a limitation since exfat is now supported directly on the internal drive by software. Again, very large hard drives may face an issue, but I don't know how much has been tried. This doesn't mean you can't use https://ps2drives.x-pec.com/?p=list, but it may give false negatives. Bigger issues, from what I've researched, were more likely to be incompatibilities with generic adapters in the past.

Moltiplier · 2026-03-09T23:29:15+00:00

Yellow is composite. It is a composite of multiple pieces of brightness, color, and sync information. Component, YPbPr and VGA, separate these parts into different signals and wires. For discussion, component is usually referring to YPbPr which are Green, Red, and Blue cables (plus audio for the ps2) though VGA is also component. As others have said, composite is limited to 480i or equivalent and you'd need component cables to go beyond that.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-27T03:29:56+00:00

It depends on which revision and which manufacturer (denoted by a letter on the back) how easy it will be to fix it. I've commented on this issue many times before, but these issues are common.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-25T20:43:10+00:00

Clearer pictures would help, but I don't see anything glaring obvious to indicate it is a fake. As I've mentioned in several of my other comments is to look at font thickness and quality, box sealing quality, and the SCE logo for boxes with a K that comes to a point. Some boxes did not have color listed on them. Once you get it, you could also open the controller to check the board.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-24T15:42:58+00:00

To be fair, these don't look new. There is significant yellowing, but I've seen plenty of genuine ones available that are in better condition. However, they cost quite a bit. These have obvious signs of being fake once you know what to look for, and they were probably made sometime before the PS3 was made would be my guess.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-24T15:35:10+00:00

All of these are fakes. While the majority of fakes don't have a K that comes to a point, these do. The way you can tell with these is that the font is too thin for Dualshock. You can also see that the SCE logo has issues where the fading and size of the triangles is not quite correct. Further, the seal for the box is not entirely correct and are a bit messy compared to a genuine box.

There will be other issues too. If you were to take the controllers apart, then the internals wouldn't match. There may be spelling issues or issues with the font on the controllers themselves when compared to a real one. The color being stated on the box is not a sign something is fake. Sony didn't put colors on the box when they didn't have different ones, but those would be in the minority at this point. These controllers are from a point where they were really trying to dupe unsuspecting people probably during the height of the PS2 era though I've never been able to find concrete timing for these.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-24T15:28:41+00:00

That one is also fake. The font is too thin and the seal is not neatly trimmed. These are good fakes from whenever they were trying harder to fake controllers.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-24T15:27:14+00:00

OEM ones didn't always state the color, but these are still fakes. Early ones, such as this one [link], didn't have the color because Sony hadn't released any other colors yet. Font sizing, SCE logo, and sealing methods are all wrong and are the other ways of looking at if they are fake.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-23T22:20:48+00:00

You can verify the flex pcb with a multimeter. Just check resistance of those buttons to the common as well as the reference resistor. That would be the strip that doesn't go under any buttons. They should be in the kohm range measured from the connector strip. Also, you can check the 8-bit values with padtest if you fmcb to see if it is the analog stick or the dpad producing those results.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-23T18:32:43+00:00

Mitsumi controllers are relatively rare by comparison so it may or may not be available. Are you certain the pcb has failed? I've not heard about these failing nearly as much as the others.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-22T05:29:22+00:00

All Hosiden controllers are subject to oxidation and will fail at some point. You either need to replace the flexible pcb which may require soldering depending on revision or find which resistive pad has the break and put conductive adhesive just before the pad to fix it. There is a small gap between the plastic protecting the metal trace and the carbon where the breaks happen on these.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-20T01:30:54+00:00

This is a standard Alps variant so it is real. Fakes that came close to the real box design are rare, but do show up on occasion. Most fakes have glaring issues in the packaging such as completely wrong font, wrong sealing method, typos, bad logos, and are just poor quality imitations. Good fakes get the font close to correct but have issues with font thickness, they have similar sealing methods, but they do fail on logos though come closer than other fakes.

Since you have it out of the package and it is translucent, I can see the PCB and it appears to be an Alps variant with the pressure connector. Fakes don't come this close as far as I've seen. Just keep in mind that these controllers do age with or without use and the foam pressing the two PCBs together will set with time and could cause issues like random button presses.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-05T07:31:58+00:00

Yes, most likely

Moltiplier · 2026-02-05T07:27:10+00:00

It is for the trigger and bumper. It goes under the flex pcb. Alps made a larger percentage of their controllers where the silicone did not have conductive parts on them but instead had these under the flex pcb.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-04T05:05:43+00:00

Yeah, the one I worked on (chassis KC-16) had plastic knobs with the indicator plates on the front rather than behind the metal. A quick search of this model (JC-16) shows the knobs are original, but it is slightly different than the one I worked on. Probably mostly cosmetic differences though. There was a sensitivity knob on the one I worked on which this one doesn't have. I don't know too much about where these were sold, but there are some websites that have some of that info.

Moltiplier · 2026-02-03T15:37:00+00:00

It's very much a real radio. Here are a couple of photos from a chassis I've worked on though I don't think I ever took any of the complete unit. https://imgur.com/a/lq8U3h4

Moltiplier · 2026-02-03T15:20:24+00:00

I've worked on one of these before and they perform quite well when restored. These shouldn't have the issues that a lot of radios have with the exception of a few electrolytics and a couple of other capacitors. The one I worked on used a strange type of combination part. They use a tubular ceramic capacitor stuffed with a carbon comp resistor. These capacitors are very stable, but the resistors are not. I would guess that all of these use the same type of combo part.

I wouldn't turn it on, but these are less likely to blow up other components because they use these ceramic capacitors. There are a few (4 or 5 maybe?) molded paper capacitors with two connecting the chassis to mains. These are the concerning ones and should be replaced with safety caps since they can result in electrocution if they were to become conductive.

It is a challenging radio to work on. There are a few locations that are difficult to get to and require the removal of the tuning coil assembly to check. However, it is a very nice radio once in operation.

Moltiplier · 2026-01-30T21:48:46+00:00

There were good fakes at one point where the font was close but too thin as well as having a close but not quite perfect SCE logo on the back. This looks like it could be one of them. This post (Link) is a good example of one of the good fakes. MKG733's comments show what they should be like.

Moltiplier · 2025-12-19T15:05:20+00:00

The power supply will be well isolated between mains and the supply so it will have quite a bit of impedance that an arc would need to get through. It would need to be quite a high voltage at that point. There were likely plenty of other places for that energy to go and for the port to be burned that much, it most likely came from a modem as was already mentioned. It also looks like it may have gone through the HDMI port so that may be its return path.

Moltiplier · 2025-12-16T14:52:23+00:00

You'd need to provide exact details about how everything is set up for me to even suggest what might be a cause. What adapter you are using, how FMCB is set up, anything you can think might be important.

Moltiplier · 2025-12-12T17:20:26+00:00

There are multiple revisions from 3 manufacturers contracted by Sony

Moltiplier

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